Exploring the Whale Trail in Santa Barbara

The moment my nine-year-old daughter, Willa, and I stepped off the plane at the quaint five-gate Santa Barbara Airport, I felt my stress levels begin to fade. Was it the live classical piano music playing on the first floor? The vibrant modern art and hand-painted murals adorning the terminal? Or perhaps the fact that the Pacific Ocean—and the chance to see whales in their natural habitat—was just a mile from the control tower?

After a quick taxi ride to our downtown hotel, we embraced the joyous rhythm of a long weekend in sunny Santa Barbara, a charming Southern California city nestled between the ocean and the rugged Santa Ynez Mountains to the east. While enjoying an outdoor lunch featuring house-smoked trout and cold-smoked salmon at The Daisy, a couple with a goldendoodle asked us about our plans. “Whale watching,” I replied, and Willa chimed in, “The cat café.”

Known as the American Riviera for its climate, landscape, and affluent vibe reminiscent of France’s Côte d’Azur and Italy’s Liguria, Santa Barbara has long served as a departure point for whale-watching adventures. In October 2023, the Santa Barbara Channel was officially recognized as a Whale Heritage Area by the World Cetacean Alliance and World Animal Protection. This location is now among the nine globally celebrated for its “exceptional responsible and sustainable whale and dolphin watching,” fostering a harmonious relationship between cetaceans and humans. Willa and I were eager to experience this unique opportunity the following day.

But first, we had to check out the cat café. Ever since adopting two kittens last summer, Willa has been eager to maximize her time with cats. Thus, we made our way to Cat Therapy, Santa Barbara’s first cat café, located in the city’s newly named ARTS District, a vibrant downtown area filled with boutiques and art galleries, highlighted by the historic Granada and Arlington theaters. In the cozy, sunlit space, Willa immediately fell for a tiny brown tabby, and I promised her we’d return to visit it again before our flight home.

The following morning, we strolled along the pedestrian-friendly State Street Promenade to Santa Barbara Landing, where we boarded our 71-foot whale-watching catamaran, the Condor Express. This vessel was specifically designed with wildlife safety in mind, featuring no propellers or sharp rudders.

Once we were settled on board, Captain Dave Beezer informed us that tours over the past two days had spotted a blue whale. As the largest animals on the planet, blue whales are typically seen in Southern California later in the year (July–September), but since we were visiting in late May, I remained hopeful.

The Santa Barbara Channel is renowned as one of the most biologically rich marine ecosystems in the world. Humpback, gray, blue, fin, minke, sperm, and Bryde’s whales have all been observed in its warm waters. Various dolphin and porpoise species also roam the channel, including the orca—the largest member of the dolphin family—as well as common and bottlenose dolphins.

As we departed from the dock, volunteers from the Channel Islands Naturalist Corps shared insights about the countless sea creatures we might encounter during our four-and-a-half-hour adventure. They also educated us on the oceanic food chain and introduced us to Happywhale, a crowdsourced and AI-driven database of whale images, tags, and data used for research and conservation efforts.

Approximately 45 minutes into our journey, somewhere between Santa Barbara and the Channel Islands, Willa and I spotted a fin. From our vantage point on the port side of the boat, we eagerly awaited its reemergence. Suddenly, we heard a thunderous whooshing sound: a humpback whale breached just 10 feet from us, releasing a powerful spray of air and water from its blowhole like a vertical firehose. Calling it awesome barely captures the moment. We were exhilarated by its immense size. The sound resembled that of a massive elevator plummeting down a shaft.

Not long after, we spotted a fin whale, which we followed for the next 30 minutes. Captain Dave referred to the fin whale as the greyhound of the ocean, known for its swift and stealthy movements. Getting closer felt like an elusive goal. We continued toward the Channel Islands as the foggy marine layer lifted, unveiling a stunning view of the archipelago before us.

In the distance, I noticed what appeared to be a small army of creatures making their way toward us. As we approached, Captain Dave informed us that we had entered a pod of common dolphins. For the next 30 minutes, we were mesmerized as hundreds, possibly even a thousand, dolphins swam alongside us, playfully leaping and frolicking in perfect synchrony with our boat.

Although the blue whale remained elusive (or perhaps it was us), as the boat raced back east toward the dock, Willa and I relaxed near the bow, the sun warming our faces and a refreshing sea breeze at our backs. We had seen, heard, and felt exactly what we came for. And once back on land, a kitten awaited our attention.

Accommodations

Santa Barbara boasts an array of lavish luxury resorts and charming boutique hotels. El Encanto, a Belmond Hotel, spans seven acres in the picturesque Santa Ynez Mountains; the Rosewood Miramar Beach is an exquisite resort located on the shore in nearby Montecito; and the Kimpton Canary, conveniently situated just off State Street, was renovated in 2023.

Dining Options

Gala, which opened in 2023 and is named after the wife of painter Salvador Dalí, pays tribute to Cadaqués, Spain. Owner Tara Penke, a Santa Barbara native, and her husband, chef-owner Jaime Riesco from Chile, spent nearly two decades living in Barcelona. At Barbareño, chef Julian Martinez highlights local culinary traditions, including Santa Maria-style barbecue with tri-tip that’s cold-smoked, cooked sous vide, and grilled over red oak. Barbareño has recently partnered with the Santa Barbara Sailing Center to offer Dining at Sea, featuring dockside dinners on a yacht followed by an evening sail. The Santa Barbara Public Market is a fantastic spot for an impromptu lunch featuring tacos, bagels, or sushi. Additionally, Satellite in the ARTS District is a unique astronaut-themed natural wine bar and plant-based eatery.

Activities to Enjoy

The Condor Express whale-watching boat operates year-round, with tours starting at 10 a.m. and lasting about four and a half hours. Guests can purchase food and drinks on board. For those interested in terrestrial attractions, the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History, established in 1916, boasts a collection of over million specimens. The outdoor exhibit Butterflies Alive! runs through September 2. The museum also features an aquarium and a specialized sea center located on Stearns Wharf.