Fertility and flight: The Voladores of Veracruz defy gravity with grace

At first glance, it seems like little more than a quiet moment – five men dressed in white tunics and red pants adorned with tassels, perched on a small platform high atop a single pole. One plays a flute, the other beats a drum in rhythmic pattern. Slowly, the four men rise together and take flight, their ankles tethered to the top by ropes as they spin in unison around the pole.

As each rotation completes, the ropes loosen, bringing the men closer to the earth, their arms extended as they soar downward. The caporal above continues to play his melody and drumbeat, marking each turn until the flyers safely reach the ground and the ritual comes to a close.

The Voladores of Veracruz, a tradition that dates back over 1,400 years, is thought to have originated during a period of drought and hunger. The ceremony was intended to appeal to the gods for rain to nourish the earth, as reported by a government source (pdf).

While other tribes may have contributed to the development of this practice, it is the Totonac people who have preserved it. The ritual's heart remains in Veracruz, in the ‘pueblo magico’ of Papantla, where the tradition continues to thrive.

To an outsider, the sequence of events may appear simple, yet it is deeply symbolic. For those involved, the ritual is rich with meanings of fertility, harmony with nature, and ancestral connection. After a brief ceremony on the ground, the participants ascend the pole. At the summit, the caporal, or chief, plays melodies on the flute that honor the sun and the four winds, symbolizing the elements of fire, water, air, and earth.

The intricate designs on the costumes and the reflective features of the headdresses carry profound significance. The ritual requires the flyers to complete 13 full rotations before touching the ground, and the total sum of these turns is 52.

'An expression of gratitude for the gifts nature provides,'

In 2009, UNESCO recognized the Voladores ritual as an “intangible cultural heritage”, highlighting that it 'enacts the myth of the creation of the universe.' According to the United Nations cultural agency, the ritual 'reflects the community’s worldview and values, fosters communication with the gods, and invites prosperity.'

'When the flyers undergo training, they not only learn the ancient language and the meaning behind the songs but also cultivate a deep sense of gratitude for nature’s gifts,' says Mario Ramírez, who first soared around the pole 18 years ago.

He now oversees the Escuela de Niños Voladores, located in the Takilhsukut Temático Park in Papantla. The school is home to 130 students, ranging from teenagers to children as young as six years old.

'The flying tradition doesn’t have an age limit; it’s a lifelong journey,' he says. 'Children never truly finish learning. What they grasp as youngsters is then tested through their practices as they grow.'

As part of their training, students also engage in reforestation projects, learning that they must plant new trees to replace those used for the poles in their rituals. These poles typically stand at least 18 meters (60 feet) tall, with some reaching up to 40 meters (131 feet). In certain permanent performance parks, metal poles have taken the place of traditional wooden ones.

'My father was a flyer, and his father before him,' says Ramírez. 'For most of our students, it's the same: they come from a long line of flyers and are carrying on the tradition.'

Today, the costumed flyers can be seen performing across Mexico, from the coastal resorts of the west to the shores of the east and at numerous locations in between.

Almost all of the Voladores train in or near Papantla, where local schools prepare younger generations to take over from the older ones as they age out of the tradition. While women are traditionally excluded, there is a small group of female flyers in Cuetzalán, Puebla, a neighboring town.

Coffee, ancient ruins, and an often-overlooked capital city

The men who fly gracefully around a pole with ropes tethered to their ankles are not the only notable exports from this region, however.

Veracruz is one of Mexico’s top coffee-growing regions, with highland farms producing some of the country’s most coveted varieties, beloved by coffee connoisseurs. The region is also the birthplace of vanilla.

Veracruz cuisine is a frequent feature on international menus. This is the birthplace of the jalapeño pepper, as well as a famous fish dish served in a tangy tomato sauce. Also native to the region is the intricate mole de Xico, a sauce that takes hours to prepare.

The most significant archaeological site in Veracruz is El Tajín, the ancient ruins of a city that thrived between 800 and 1200 AD. Not associated with the Aztecs or Maya, it once housed 15,000 to 20,000 people. Carved reliefs and paintings found at the site offer a glimpse into the rituals and daily life of the period. It’s also an ideal spot to witness the Voladores in action, connecting modern traditions to ancient practices.

Nestled in the mountains, the lush city of Xalapa, founded in 1313 long before the Spanish arrived, serves as the capital of Veracruz state. Interestingly, it’s not the more populous port city of Veracruz, where Hernán Cortés’ conquistadors landed 206 years later.

Xalapa boasts a charming, pedestrian-friendly historic center with a lovely shaded park and a church that dates back to 1641. However, the real highlight is Mexico’s second most important archaeological museum, after Mexico City’s. The Xalapa Museum of Anthropology features ancient Olmec and Totonac artifacts, including massive stone heads sculpted by the region's coastal inhabitants millennia ago.

Hiking and music in Veracruz

Just outside the city, hiking trails lead to stunning viewpoints overlooking lush green mountains and jungle-covered hills, with the Texolo and La Monja waterfalls adding a picturesque touch. The state is also home to several rivers, including the Filo-Bobos and the Antigua, offering thrilling Class III and IV white-water rafting experiences.

When it’s time to celebrate, Veracruz brings its own distinct style of music, son jarocho, featuring the unique sounds of the jarana, a small guitar-like instrument, along with improvisational lyrics and rhythms in a lively 6/8 time signature.

Experience the annual Son Jarocho festival in early February in the riverside town of Tlacotalpan. The event coincides with the Candelaria mass, a celebration where the Virgin of Candelaria, the town's patron saint, is paraded through the streets and down the river, accompanied by a flotilla of boats.

Eva Longoria explores Veracruz in the upcoming episode of 'Searching for Mexico' this Sunday.

'Veracruz was probably my favorite episode. They call it “the port of spice” because, historically, all goods entered the Americas through that port,' said Longoria.

'It’s fascinating to see what has endured, what has blended into Mexican culture, and what has been left behind. I hope viewers enjoy it because it's a beautiful culinary journey,' she added.

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