Flavors and culture: A journey through Southern Peru

Nestled in the embrace of the Andes, Southern Peru proudly upholds its rich traditions and customs. Cities like Cusco, Puno, and Arequipa are alive with ancient festivals and time-honored culinary practices (imagine vibrant parades honoring the Sun God and clay pots sizzling over wood-fired stoves), making each a remarkable destination for those seeking genuine experiences.

Linked by Inca heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and high-altitude agriculture, these three cities each boast their own distinct essence. Join us on a cultural and culinary exploration of Southern Peru, beginning in Cusco, the former heart of the Inca Empire, then journeying to Puno by Lake Titicaca, and ultimately arriving in the enchanting White City of Arequipa.

Note from the Editor: This travel plan includes high-altitude regions of Peru. It's recommended to spend some time in lower altitude areas to acclimatize before venturing into the heights of Cusco.

Cusco: A Legacy of the Inca Empire

Wandering through the narrow lanes of Cusco, visitors are often captivated by the stunning colonial architecture that defines this high-altitude (3400m) city, once the heart of the Inca Empire. Here, Inca structures, taken over by the Spaniards in the 16th century, form the robust base for landmarks like the Archbishop’s Palace (originally the residence of Inca Roca and home to the renowned twelve-angle stone) and the Santo Domingo Monastery, which is built over the sacred Inca temple of Qoricancha.

Enhance your walking tour by visiting the archaeological park of Sacsayhuaman, where envisioning Cusco as the grand imperial city it once was becomes a breeze. This vast site, significant for both religious and military purposes, is the most impressive in the vicinity of Cusco.

While the remarkable architectural feats of the Inca have endured through the ages, so too have some of the empire’s most magnificent cultural celebrations. Inti Raymi, the annual Sun Festival, occurs every June to coincide with the winter solstice, honoring the Sun god, Inti. Founded by Inca Pachacutec around 1430 AD, Inti Raymi attracts crowds from across Peru, featuring vibrant performances of dance and music.

A standout dish at Cusco’s Inti Raymi festival is the classic chiri uchu – a sampler of Andean delights including potatoes, corn fritters, guinea pig, and dried alpaca meat. The name chiri uchu translates to ‘cold chili pepper,’ reflecting its chilled serving to pay tribute to the warm sun. It’s typically enjoyed with a glass of chicha de jora, a fermented corn drink cherished by the Incas and still a beloved part of local culture.

Many residents of the Cusco highlands embrace an Andean diet abundant in plant-based proteins, thanks to the rich native crops grown in this fertile area. Be sure to try choclo con queso (large kernel corn paired with a slice of salty cheese), quinoa soup, or the freeze-dried potato known as moraya, enjoyed with spicy uchucuta sauce.

Puno and Lake Titicaca: A Tapestry of Folklore and Flavor

According to the renowned 16th-century chronicler Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, the Inca creation myth begins at Lake Titicaca in Puno – the world’s highest navigable lake at 3,800m. From this sacred water emerged Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, offspring of the Sun God Inti, who united a chaotic Andean society to form an empire. Whether historical truth or myth, this legend enhances the enchanting experience of gliding across Lake Titicaca and engaging with the Andean communities that reside there.

A full-day boat tour of Lake Titicaca kicks off with a visit to the ancient Uros Islands, crafted from totora reeds by Uros-Aymara families. These floating islands are a delight to explore, as locals showcase their artistry by fashioning vibrant canoe-style boats and other items from the same aquatic bulrush.

Venturing away from Puno and the well-trodden Uros Islands, make your way to Taquile Island. With just a few thousand Quechua-speaking residents and several impressive Inca and pre-Inca sites, this traditional island is deserving of a longer stay. After enjoying a lunch of freshly fried trout from the lake or a creamy serving of pesque de quinoa, meet the local male knitters and weavers – a rarity in Peru. The tranquil lifestyle of the Taquileños will linger in your memory long after the stunning sunset farewell as you return to Puno’s shores.

Every February, Puno embraces its title as the Folkloric Capital of Peru with the lively Virgen de la Candelaria festival, a two-week celebration. This event blends Catholic traditions with Andean beliefs, honoring the city’s patron saint through numerous processions and a vibrant dance competition that attracts thousands of beautifully-costumed performers from across Peru. Be sure to taste chaulla thimpo, the Quechua name for a traditional fish and potato stew.

Arequipa: Rich Flavors and Vibrant History in the White City

Arequipa, known as the White City for its breathtaking sillar architecture, a soft volcanic rock, also presents a wealth of historical and cultural experiences. Stroll through the historic city center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where you’ll encounter the magnificent Basilica Cathedral, one of Peru’s most striking colonial churches. Just a few blocks away, the 16th-century Monasterio de Santa Catalina dazzles with its vibrant primary colors and extensive complex of rooms, courtyards, and cloisters.

Travel northwest towards the Grau bridge, and you’ll spot the silhouette of Misti volcano rising in the distance. This active stratovolcano, located less than 20km from the city, beckons adventure seekers to hike its 5,820m peak. If climbing a volcanic mountain isn’t quite your style, consider visiting Colca Canyon instead. At twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, Colca is a four-hour drive from the center of Arequipa, with most travelers choosing to break the journey into a two-day adventure. This arid region is also the prime spot for witnessing the majestic Andean condor soaring overhead.

Whether you prefer city tours or thrilling outdoor activities, a trip to Arequipa will ignite your appetite. The local culinary style diverges from that of Cusco and Puno, so step into a picanteria (a traditional family-run lunch spot) and indulge in hearty, generously-portioned dishes. Must-try starters include rocoto relleno (a spicy pepper filled with ground beef and topped with cheese) and pastel de papa (a layered dish of white potatoes, cheese, and egg, reminiscent of lasagna).

A beloved dish among Arequipeños is shrimp chowder, or chupe de camarones, especially since the city is under 100km from the Pacific coast. However, the true essence of Arequipa shines through in its unique take on adobo. Prepared in a traditional clay pot, pork is gently simmered in the fermented corn drink chicha de jora until tender, then combined with vinegar and a blend of Peruvian herbs and spices. To savor Arequipa-style adobo like a local, visit a neighborhood picanteria early and enjoy this hearty stew for breakfast – an ideal way to soak in the rich traditions, culture, and culinary heritage of Southern Peru.

If you're eager to continue your adventure, Southern Peru offers an abundance of unique experiences and delicious food waiting to be explored. Consider utilizing tourist services in any of these three cities to enhance your journey.