Fukushima's Revival: This Japanese Destination Welcomes Tourists Once More

On a crisp autumn morning, the Mishima Overlook in Fukushima is filled with photographers, mostly from Taiwan, eager to capture the stunning Tadami Line railway as it crosses the gracefully arched Dai-ichi Tadamigawa Bridge.

Among them is local photographer Kenkou Hoshi, the region’s most dedicated photographer, who has been a key figure in promoting grassroots tourism in the area.

After discovering a hilltop viewpoint overlooking the Tadami River, he persuaded local officials to build stairs for easier access and is now pushing for an elevator to assist the elderly.

As the train emerges at 9:05 a.m., a flurry of camera shutters snaps to life, as if a celebrity had arrived.

"Attracting new industries is challenging, so tourism is the most effective way to drive development," Hoshi remarked through an interpreter.

Aware that most visitors to Fukushima are Taiwanese seeking to experience autumn and winter seasons they can't find at home, Hoshi promoted Mishima by hosting photography competitions in Taiwan, featuring images of the Tadami Line from the overlook.

He also launched the Mugenkyo no Watashi tours on the Tadami River, which use flat-bottom boats like the ones he rode as a child to visit the haunting remains of his village, abandoned after a landslide in 1964.

Hoshi’s deep affection for Fukushima is evident, and it’s a characteristic shared by most residents of the region if you spend enough time there.

Many businesses in the area have been passed down through generations, maintaining a deep connection to the region’s history.

Attracting visitors, however, has proven difficult. Fukushima is one of six prefectures in Tohoku, a remote and underdeveloped region on the northeast tip of Japan’s main island, Honshu, and accounts for less than 2% of Japan’s international tourist traffic.

Despite eight years passing since the Fukushima nuclear disaster, triggered by the massive earthquake and tsunami off the coast of Tohoku, fears about radiation remain the most common reaction when people hear you're heading to Fukushima.

Perhaps that’s why only 120,000 international visitors stayed overnight in Fukushima in 2018, even though the contaminated evacuation zone now accounts for just 2.8% of the entire prefecture.

For those who have already explored places like Kyoto or are looking to escape the crowds, Fukushima offers a more tranquil, off-the-beaten-path alternative — at least until word spreads.

Fukushima, Japan's third-largest prefecture with a population under 2 million, is primarily rural, featuring winding mountain roads, dense forests, flowing rivers, waterfalls, marshlands, and highlands.

Fukushima is renowned in Japan for its vibrant autumn foliage, heavy snowfall, historic samurai sites in Aizuwakamatsu, peach and persimmon orchards, unique local cuisine, over 130 hot spring resorts, and more than 60 sake breweries.

"This is our fifth visit to Japan, and after seeing posts on social media and YouTube, we decided to come to Fukushima," said Natalie Meek from the UK. "We're renting a car and spending five days in the Aizuwakamatsu area because there's so much to explore."

Japan has such strong faith in Fukushima's recovery that the prefecture was chosen to kick off the Tokyo 2020 Olympics torch relay at J-Village, the nation's leading soccer training facility.

Located just 12.4 miles from the site of the nuclear meltdown but spared from the tsunami due to its higher elevation, J-Village served as a base for 1,000 responders during the disaster and has since become a symbol of Fukushima’s revival.

From J-Village, the Olympic torch will travel north, passing through coastal towns like Soma, which have made significant strides in recovery since 2011. Soma is also the southern starting point of Japan’s new 620-mile Michinoku Coastal Trail, which spans four prefectures and was created to promote healing and attract international tourists.

The relay will then head inland, passing through towns like Fukushima City, the prefectural capital, known for its relaxing hot springs (onsen).

Just 92 minutes from Tokyo on the fastest Shinkansen bullet train, Fukushima offers the Iizaka Onsen area, where visitors can unwind at nine public baths and stay at traditional ryokan inns like Nakamuraya. Here, 7th-generation innkeeper Hiroshi Abe proudly showcases antiques and architectural details, from the open-hearth fireplace in the lobby to rooms once used by samurai.

In Fukushima, like in many other areas, prices are up to 20% lower compared to popular tourist destinations like Kyoto.

To the south of Fukushima City lies the castle town of Nihonmatsu, where Daishichi Sake Brewery is known for its dedication to sake brewing, a craft it has mastered more than most other breweries in Japan.

Founded in 1752 and now run by the 10th generation of the Ohta family, Daishichi Brewery exclusively uses the traditional kimoto method, a slow and labor-intensive technique that dates back to the 1700s but has mostly been replaced by faster modern brewing methods.

Daishichi Brewery also pioneered a unique super-flat rice polishing method, ensuring a high-quality sake with a refined taste.

The result is sake that resists oxidation and improves with age, much like fine wine.

Visitors can enjoy guided tours with tastings to experience the sake production process firsthand.

"Minowamon, named after a gate of Nihonmatsu Castle, is our best-seller due to its exceptional flavor and rich umami profile," said Ohta. "It pairs wonderfully with buttery, creamy dishes."

Fukushima's most famous castle town is Aizuwakamatsu, known as Samurai City, located in the westernmost region of the prefecture, Aizu.

Following the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate, which had ruled Japan for over 250 years, the Boshin War erupted between samurai loyal to the shogun and Imperial forces after the emperor regained power.

It was in Tsurugajo Castle where the powerful Aizu clan fought and ultimately lost the last battle involving samurai warriors.

Thousands perished in the battle, including female samurai and the Byakkotai (White Tiger Force), a group of young samurai who, believing the castle was burning, tragically took their own lives.

Today, Tsurugajo Castle features a history museum, along with a traditional Japanese garden, a teahouse, and 1,000 cherry trees blooming across its grounds.

Nearby, you can visit Aizu Bukeyashiki, the former residence of Saigo Tanomo, the chief retainer of the Aizu clan, where he lived with his family, servants, and soldiers.

The restored 38-room mansion offers a glimpse into a life of grandeur, which tragically came to an end during the final days of the Boshin War. Saigo’s wife killed their three youngest children before taking her own life, along with her teenage daughters and other family members. Saigo, however, survived the war and lived into his 70s.

Aizuwakamatsu is famous for its sake breweries, hot springs, and distinctive local dishes, such as kozuyu, a traditional soup made with root vegetables, dried scallops, mushrooms, and other ingredients, typically served at weddings and festive occasions.

Wappameshi is a simple but flavorful dish of rice and various ingredients steamed together in a circular cedar container. Sauce katsudon, on the other hand, features a breaded pork cutlet topped with a rich, thick sauce, served over rice with cabbage.

Ramen has been a popular dish in the region for years, and in nearby Kitakata, where you'll find over 120 ramen shops, it's even enjoyed as a breakfast meal.

Located just south of Aizuwakamatsu, Ouchijuku is the most visited destination in Fukushima Prefecture.

Ouchijuku is a historic post town that once served as a vital stop along the Aizu Nishi Kaido, an ancient route connecting Aizu with Nikko.

These roads were once used for transporting rice and were crucial for feudal lords, who were obligated by law to spend alternate years in Edo, which is present-day Tokyo.

Surprisingly, 48 original thatched buildings from the Edo Period (1603–1867) remain standing, lining both sides of the historic route. These buildings now house restaurants serving buckwheat noodles, souvenir shops, and a few minshuku, which are traditional Japanese bed-and-breakfast inns.

Located west of Aizuwakamatsu, Yanaizu is a charming onsen village nestled along the Tadami River. With a population of 3,400 and seven ryokan, the town is best known for Fukumankokuzobosatsu Enzo-ji, a temple perched on a rocky hill above the town. Each year, the temple hosts one of Japan’s renowned Naked Festivals.

During the Naked Festival, men dressed only in loincloths race up stone steps to reach the temple’s main hall. They compete to grab a single rope leading to the temple's gong, and those who succeed in ringing it are believed to be blessed with good fortune for the year ahead.