Greetings from Saudi Arabia

The sandstone cliffs of the desert rise in a violet silhouette; this early morning, just before 6 AM, I’m gearing up to ascend one of those cliffs with three new companions—Abdullah, Jumana, and our guide, Omar, from Husaak Adventures—as we prepare for a “moderate” hike in the Sharaan Nature Reserve. Today marks my last day in AlUla, an ancient oasis located in the northwest region of Saudi Arabia, and we’ve reserved the most adventurous activity for the final hours of my trip.

I would categorize “moderate” as a four- to six-mile hike that includes some elevation changes and slightly uneven terrain. However, this near-vertical climb to the ridge of Madakhel Canyon, which I’m assessing in the early dawn light, feels a bit different. Omar reassures us it’s only an hour to the summit. Sure, I can handle this, I tell myself, tightening my boot laces and the straps of my backpack. Abdullah, a local from Riyadh who has recently taken a communications position with the Royal Commission for AlUla (the government body overseeing tourism), appears unbothered by the boulders he’s about to navigate in his Hoka sneakers. On the other hand, this is Jumana’s first-ever hiking experience; she’s a 26-year-old woman from Jeddah working with the tour company the Traveling Panther, and she has been my charming companion throughout this week in the Arabian desert. True to form, she’s wearing an abaya, the loose-fitting robe typically worn by Muslim women in the region, extending to her wrists and ankles.

As we begin carefully stepping over the sandstone rocks—many of which seem to have a mind of their own and wobble beneath our feet—I lag a few paces behind Jumana. Her foot repeatedly catches on the hem of her abaya, enough to raise the mom and wilderness guide instincts in me. The men leap ahead like billy goats freed after a long, cold winter. Omar occasionally calls down to check on us, keeping a watchful eye, but right now it’s just Jumana and me, trying to navigate the terrain without panicking in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

“Umm, Jumana?” I’m hesitant to make a suggestion, fearing I might offend her. Over the past week, my travel companions and I have moved from light-hearted conversations about music, past trips, and culinary adventures to deeper discussions about family, love (“have you ever been in love?”), work, university, gender pronouns, human rights, cancel culture, and female empowerment. Stepping in and out of our comfort zones while exploring new places—and new facets of ourselves—creates these connections, yet the question I’m about to pose still feels taboo.

We take a moment to hydrate, and I quickly blurt out, “What do you think about removing your abaya? You keep tripping….” My voice trails off as I gaze down the cliff we’re climbing, the rising sun shining directly at us like an interrogation light.

She studies me for a moment, weighing her options. As of 2018, following years of enforced dress codes, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman Al Saud, known as MBS, announced that Saudi women no longer need to wear a head covering or the traditional black abaya: “The decision is entirely left for women to decide what type of decent and respectful attire she chooses to wear.” In recent years, the kingdom has also embraced international tourism for the first time, significantly diminished the influence of the religious police, and granted women the rights to drive, travel alone, and socialize with men in newly opened movie theaters and concert venues. This transformation is part of Vision 2030, a blueprint aimed at creating a more progressive and less oil-dependent Saudi society. However, despite the rapid pace of change, being a woman here still requires a great deal of courage.

During a week in November 2022—just as the Middle East faced intense global attention with Qatar hosting the region’s first FIFA World Cup—I gained a firsthand introduction to Saudi Arabian tourism. AlUla was my entry point: Within 8,700 square miles of golden sands and palm trees, a desert oasis as large as Israel, lie several significant historical sites that share a heritage with Jordan’s Petra. In the AlUla Valley, excavation of Hegra—the Nabateans' second city after Petra, boasting 111 monumental tombs from the 1st century B.C.—only began in the 1980s, led by King Saud University. In the early 2000s, a group of French archaeologists and the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities conducted the first comprehensive survey of the site, which helped Hegra earn its designation as Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008. Prior to this, it served as a popular Bedouin campsite, where, according to our rawis (storytellers or tour guides), children would play inside the tombs and duel with bones they discovered.

AlUla remains remarkably preserved and isn't the sole site available for exploration. Once the capital of the ancient Dadan and Lihyan kingdoms, AlUla is now managed by chief archaeologist Dr. Rebecca Foote, a Harvard-educated expert in cultural heritage. She oversees a large excavation team of 150-200 archaeologists in the valley. The rock carvings of gazelle and ibex, along with ancient inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah, are well-protected from wind and erosion, presenting themselves as an ‘open-air library’ that allows for guided tours to closely examine these remarkable artworks.

Surrounding the historical sites and natural attractions, a tourism boom has unfolded at a speed that would make New York City seem slow by comparison. Luxurious accommodations have emerged, including Habitas, Banyan Tree, and Aman resorts. A visually striking concert hall named Maraya, perfect for Instagram, has hosted performances by artists like John Legend and Alicia Keys. AlUla is also home to restaurants, outdoor markets, and soon a boutique hotel in Old Town. The Madrasat Adderra, AlUla’s first art and design center located in a former girls' school, offers free weekly workshops and currently trains around 70 women in various artistic disciplines, such as ceramics and jewelry making.

In just a few years, a completely new culture has emerged in the region, characterized by mega-concerts, roller rinks, road trips, and Airstream camping. There are elaborate art exhibits like Desert X and guides trained by the Louvre Abu Dhabi. A focus on outdoor activities has also developed: we’re hiking in the Sharaan Nature Reserve, recently rewilded with over 1,500 Nubian ibex and Idmi gazelle. These animals will eventually serve as prey for Arabian leopards, which are gradually returning from the brink of extinction. In 2023, four leopard cubs were born at the Arabian Leopard Breeding Center in Taif, and a cutting-edge breeding facility is set to open in early 2024 in Sharaan. The Saudi Green Initiative plans to convert 80% of AlUla into nature reserves, with Sharaan cultivating indigenous flora and fauna across 600 square miles, protected by an electric fence to prevent camels from consuming the new grass. AlUla locals, trained as park rangers, will guide visitors along the newly established Arabian Leopard Celebration Trail, a 4.3-mile route that will form the initial link in a global network of Catwalk Trails developed with the nonprofit Catmosphere.

Investment in AlUla is part of a series of ambitious 'giga-projects' being launched throughout the kingdom, aimed at boosting the annual number of international visitors from around 20 million—mostly Muslims making the pilgrimage to Makkah/Mecca—to over 100 million. According to Greg Sullivan, cofounder of Dinogo, this was discussed at the World Trade and Tourism Council global summit in Riyadh. These extensive destination development programs involve constructing tens of thousands of hotel rooms; Diriyah, envisioned as a ‘city of the future’ being built from the ground up near Riyadh; and the Red Sea Project, a vast development spanning 11,000 square miles on Saudi Arabia’s western coast, featuring 90 islands and inland dunes, primarily powered by solar energy and supported by biofuel generators.

Drawing inspiration from a classic line in Field of Dreams: If you construct it, will they arrive? But who exactly will 'they' be? The quest for international visitors is accompanied by a persistent public relations challenge. Although strides are being made in women’s rights, the treatment of journalists, activists, and the LGBTQ+ community in Saudi Arabia continues to attract global criticism, as noted in our January issue of Dinogo.

Even the boldest adventurers questioned my decision to visit Saudi Arabia. Here are some comments I received before my journey:

Are you anxious about going? (And, as a follow-up: Are you worried about traveling alone as a woman?)

It’s a stunning location, but considering their human rights situation, I wouldn’t feel right spending my money there.

Why not choose to visit Dubai or Abu Dhabi first? They’re at least more progressive.

When I raised these issues with Zoe Shurgold, the global head of public relations for the Royal Commission for AlUla, her response was:

“We encourage visitors to come and experience the genuine warmth and hospitality of our people. … There are few nations in the world free from complex politics and history. Our goal is to keep sharing the stories of a destination recognized as one of the seven unheard wonders of the world, featuring incredible man-made structures and stunning geological formations, allowing visitors to make their own judgments.”

Kingdom of Sunrise

Back on the cliff, Jumana has opted to take off her abaya (after first calling out to Omar and Abdullah to inform them). She quickly folds it and hands it to me to stow in my backpack, moving forward with newfound confidence in her hoodie and joggers—attire that resonates with twenty-somethings worldwide. We ascend, carefully selecting our footholds, as the men have already reached the summit. To lighten the mood, I start singing silly songs—“If You’re Happy and You Know It,” “Happy Birthday”—to manifest joy and distract us until we reach the top. Along the way, we chat about how everyone I’ve met in AlUla seems keen on owning a farm. (Saudi Princess Noura sets a high standard with her farm, cultivating dates and citrus, and raising goats and ostriches after relocating from Jeddah during the pandemic.) It mirrors the conversations I had with many New Yorkers who migrated to the idyllic Hudson Valley when COVID struck. Life isn't so different, I reflect.

After two hours of climbing, with the sun now high above us, we pull ourselves over the ridge with Omar's assistance. Abdullah cheers, arms raised as if celebrating a victory for his favorite football team. Jumana turns and wraps me in a warm hug, a gesture that communicates relief and elation: WE DID IT. Before us lies a rocky volcanic landscape, reminiscent of a lunar surface, contrasting sharply with the sandstone canyons below. We soak in the view in a serene silence, snacking on apples at the pinnacle. The natural beauty captivates me; it evokes images of the U.S. Southwest's desert canyons, Israel’s mountains, or a scene straight out of Star Wars. Even better, I’m sharing this moment with someone who now, without a doubt, has the desire to invest in hiking boots.

“I think I’d like to go camping,” Jumana says while munching on an apple. “And I want to learn how to ride a bike.” Although this is her first hiking experience, it certainly won’t be her last.

Then, with a spontaneous declaration I couldn't have scripted, she proclaims: “Nobody can hold me back.”

Things to Read Before You Visit

• Overview: The Dinogo Guide to Saudi Arabia
• Travel etiquette and dress codes: Essential Tips Before Your Visit
• Recommended tour operator: The Traveling Panther

How to Get There

Saudia Airlines, flydubai, and flynas operate flights to and from AlUla’s International Airport (ULH), located just a 30-minute drive from the city center. Common transfer hubs include Jeddah, Riyadh, and Dubai, with a direct seasonal route to Paris reportedly in development.

Accommodation Options

Continue reading for 3 Hotels and 3 Unique Adventures in the Arabian Desert.