Grenada's Underwater Sculpture Garden: A Narrative Beyond Just a Snapshot

Sunlight filters through the warm, crystal-clear waters, casting light on the impressive stone sculpture of a woman proudly holding a nutmeg above her head. As I swim around the sculpture, colorful fish dart by, enhancing the breathtaking representation of local folklore. Her stone hair appears to dance, leaving me in awe. (Well ... it would if I weren’t scuba diving.)

I’m in Grenada, famously known as the "Isle of Spice," discovering one of the globe's most remarkable eco-friendly artworks. This stunning statue of Grenada’s legendary Nutmeg Princess is part of the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park, the first of its kind in the Caribbean.

The underwater sculpture park boasts over 75 art pieces spread across 8,600 square feet of the Caribbean seabed. Created by British artist Jason deCaires Taylor, these sculptures are made from a blend of pH-neutral cement and stainless steel, making them perfect for fostering marine life. Initially submerged 20 years ago, the statues aimed to help restore the coral reef after the severe damage inflicted by Hurricane Ivan in 2004.

Positioned five to eight feet beneath the surface, these sculptures are easily accessible to divers, snorkelers, and even glass-bottomed boats. Additionally, the park directs snorkelers and divers away from vulnerable reefs, which has led to its designation as a Marine Protected area.

While the sculpture park is globally celebrated for its environmental efforts, its cultural importance often goes unnoticed. For instance, the Nutmeg Princess sculpture symbolizes the title character in a beloved Grenadian folktale, representing the virtues of goodness and beauty in nature, while teaching children the values of faith and friendship.

Adjacent to the princess stands a sculpture of a man seated at a desk with a typewriter, surrounded by newspaper clippings from the 1970s. This piece, titled The Lost Correspondent, captures a moment before Grenada’s 1979 revolution, when it became the sole socialist state in the Commonwealth, reflecting the rapidly evolving landscape of communication during this turbulent period.

One of the park's most renowned pieces is called Vicissitudes, featuring a circle of children facing outward toward the sea, symbolizing unity and resilience. Locally, this artwork also serves as a tribute to those who perished during the slave trade, evoking the painful legacy of the Middle Passage with the shackle-like metal linking their arms. It is both beautiful and haunting.

Last year, 27 new sculptures were introduced to the enchanting collection. Named The Coral Carnival, these pieces are a collaboration between Taylor and local artists, deeply rooted in Grenada’s vibrant culture. They showcase notable figures from Grenada’s SpiceMas, an annual festival celebrating unity, pride, and the emancipation from slavery.

“SpiceMas is remarkable for its blend of tradition, innovation, and community spirit. Our carnival goes beyond mere celebration; it is intricately tied to Grenada's history,” shared Samantha Thomas, a marketing executive at Grenada Tourism Authority, with Dinogo. “The Coral Carnival sculpture captures this essence wonderfully. Like SpiceMas, it bursts with color, energy, and dynamic movement — but this time, the movement unfolds underwater, where coral and marine life enliven the sculptures. It embodies the spirit of unity, celebration, and the natural rhythm that make SpiceMas and Grenada so unique.”

One of the longstanding figures of SpiceMas is Jab Jab, which translates to "Double Devil" — a term originally used by enslavers in a derogatory manner towards enslaved Africans. Nowadays, the traditional Jab Jab costume serves as a satirical representation of the treatment of the enslaved: participants adorn themselves with chains and horns, smearing their bodies with motor oil or molasses.

Additional SpiceMas characters include Shortknee, a vibrant figure with bells around their ankles who shares tales from their village, and Vieux Forts, known for their long, colorful capes, tall pointed hats, and wooden shoes. Both figures wear wire mesh masks that symbolize the erasure of identity through slavery. They all inhabit the Molinère Underwater Sculpture Park as a tribute to Grenada’s rich and complex heritage.

The newly unveiled Coral Carnival sculptures are the only painted artworks in the underwater park. Bursting with color, jewels, and feathers, they embody the lively spirit of masquerading dancers during Grenada’s Spice Mas. Their eyes gaze forward through the clear, blue waters, joining the parade of Grenadian emancipation and pride.

As I glide past various interpretations of Jab Jab that adorn the Caribbean seabed, I catch sight of an octopus retreating into a small cave at the feet of a masquerader, while a striking blue anemone brushes against her leg. It's captivating to witness life flourishing on these powerful emblems of nationalism, history, and resilience — a testament to the island's enduring spirit. As I swim back to the boat, I can feel Grenada’s essence of freedom, pride, and strength resonate through the water.