Hanoi restaurant brings history to life with nostalgic dishes and vintage decor

If it weren't for the perfectly arranged wooden tables, the crumpled paper menus, and the strong scent of fish sauce and garlic, you might mistake 37 Nam Trang for an art gallery or museum.

Period-specific treasures like old photographs, metal cups, military hats, and camouflage lanterns embellish the walls, with a large scale sitting just past the entrance.

An antique radio, a few vintage televisions, and a display case of ration stamps are embedded into the brick wall.

This is no ordinary dining experience.

37 Nam Trang — State-Run Food Shop #37 — located in a village near Hanoi, about 15 minutes by car from the Old Quarter, is designed to resemble a government-run food establishment, down to its very name. During the post-war years, from 1976-1986, when the state controlled the economy, restaurants were allowed to operate but couldn’t have individual names, only titles reflecting their government affiliation.

A glimpse into the past

Dang Thanh Thuy, 47, is the current legal owner of 37 Nam Trang, but while she runs the business, she has chosen a theme that echoes her country’s history.

'When people come here, they relive memories of the past, and I hope everyone joins me in preserving and sharing this chapter of our nation’s story,' says Thuy.

Though Thuy was just a child during the postwar era and doesn’t remember many specific details from that time, she feels a deep desire to honor it through her restaurant. She credits the stories and teachings of older generations for inspiring her to create this homage.

A large, weathered blue scale stacked with root vegetables greets visitors as they enter.

A large, weathered blue scale stacked with root vegetables greets visitors as they step inside. Diana Diroy

'In my restaurant, I’ve recreated the objects and memories of the subsidy period, and personally, I find the food from those challenging times fascinating. The nostalgia and childhood memories are what led me to revive some of the dishes and culinary delights from that tough era of our country,' says Thuy.

One item that holds a special place for Thuy is the blue, chipped scale stacked with root vegetables. It welcomes guests at the door, reminding both Thuy and her visitors of a time when waiting in line to weigh basic provisions was how people were fed. 'I still remember waiting in line to buy meat or fish, seeing the seller behind the scale as she weighed the goods,' Thuy recalls.

The blend of old and new; the fusion of young and old

37 Nam Trang — State-Run Food Shop #37 — located in a village near Hanoi, just 15 minutes by car from the Old Quarter, is designed to resemble a government-run food stall, right down to its name.

37 Nam Trang — State-Run Food Shop #37 — located in a Hanoi village about 15 minutes by car from the Old Quarter, is modeled after a government-operated food shop, right down to its name. Stacey Lastoe/Dinogo

Thuy warmly invites both the older and younger generations of Vietnamese to 37 Nam Trang, which has gained significant attention since opening in 2012. The older visitors are deeply moved by the memories of a challenging era, while the younger generation is eager to learn about the past—what their parents and grandparents ate, how they cooked, and how they managed with limited resources.

Foreigners often make their way to the 70-seat 37 Nam Trang, ordering from a picture-laden menu. Thuy mentions that international guests typically flock to the restaurant at night for dinner, while locals fill the place at lunchtime. For a more authentic experience, visiting the village around midday is recommended.

No matter when you visit, you’ll be treated to freshly prepared seasonal dishes: shrimp, river crabs, snails, eels, and frogs. Thuy often uses what she refers to as 'tiny shrimp,' small crustaceans, also known as brine shrimp, found in lakes and known for their robust, earthy flavor.

Pork is simmered in shrimp paste, which is also served as a dipping sauce. True to Vietnamese culinary tradition, Thuy is a big fan of fish sauce, which makes an appearance in almost every dish. Salty and pungent, it has the power to transform even the simplest ingredients into something extraordinary.

If you're dining with others, family-style is the way to go at 37 Nam Trang.

If you're dining with others, family-style is the best way to enjoy a meal at 37 Nam Trang. Diana Diroy

While the locals tend to lean toward the seafood offerings at 37 Nam Trang, pork remains a key ingredient in both the traditional and modern dishes on the menu.

During the subsidy period, women would often purchase raw pork lard and find countless ways to stretch it: using it as cooking fat or as a crunchy topping to enhance the flavor and texture of dishes like sautéed morning glory or pickled mustard greens, explains Thuy.

Today, diners can enjoy dishes where pork is not just the seasoning but the main attraction, like in the pork adobo. This rich, flavorful dish pairs perfectly with a quick dip in the garlic-laden fish sauce served on the side. The boiled pork is complemented by the sharpness of tart starfruit slices and the freshness of vibrant herbs.

Choosing a drink is the easiest decision you'll make today. Thuy offers only local beers – Truc Bach, Hanoi, and Saigon – the same three beers that were available during the subsidy period. Unsweetened iced tea is also on the menu.

'I want everyone to join me in preserving and sharing a significant part of our nation’s history,' says Thuy.