Here’s a guide to indulging in the culinary delights of Bilbao and Spain’s Basque Country

Upon relocating to Spain, I was aware that its cuisine was rich and diverse across regions.

However, I wasn’t well-versed in the origins of each local dish or the distinction between pintxos and tapas. (For clarification: pintxos are small, handheld bites, while tapas are larger servings presented on small plates and typically enjoyed with utensils.) What I did know was that pintxos originated from the Basque Country (País Vasco). Having sampled them at various Spanish eateries globally, I eagerly anticipated exploring the region.

I soon discovered that the cuisine of Bilbao and the Basque Country is renowned for much more than just pintxos. The region boasts vibrant culinary traditions and an unmatched dedication to high-quality ingredients, from the delectable txuleta – a meat lover’s paradise featuring locally sourced beef – to kokotxas, a savory fish stew, and bacalao al pil pil, which is cod in a rich sauce of olive oil, garlic, and chili peppers.

As I don’t drive in Spain, I planned my journey to the region by flying and taking the train. The main hurdle for a food-focused trip? With limited meals, it’s impossible to sample everything. After living in Spain for a year and a half, I understood that reservations are essential at many spots, as popular restaurants rarely accept walk-ins. (Fortunately, pintxos bars do.) If you’re keen on trying the iconic txuleta at one of the Basque Country’s top steakhouses, booking at least two weeks ahead is highly advisable.

Here’s everything I gleaned from my journey to the Basque Country, along with some plans for my next visit.

Step 1: Decide on your destination

Beaches or an iconic museum? No matter your choice, this entire region guarantees fantastic cuisine.

The Basque Country, an autonomous region in northern Spain, is celebrated for its vibrant culinary landscape. Its major cities—Bilbao, Vitoria-Gasteiz, and San Sebastián—each possess their own unique charm. Bilbao, often regarded as the artistic heart of the Basque Country and home to the Museo Guggenheim, is my personal favorite, while San Sebastián attracts visitors with its stunning beaches. Meanwhile, the lesser-known Vitoria-Gasteiz, the regional capital, provides a glimpse into daily Basque life, featuring a medieval quarter worth discovering.

People often associate the Basque Country with frequent rainy weather, especially during fall and winter; however, recent years have seen a decrease in rainfall. Summer tends to be the driest and warmest, but rain can still surprise you, and tourism peaks during this season. To dodge crowds and inflated prices, the optimal times to explore the region are June and September. Still, any time is a good time to visit the Basque Country.

Step 2: Outline your itinerary

Pintxos can be found in virtually every bar throughout Bilbao, and you simply won’t have enough time to sample them all.

During my first visit to Bilbao, I sought recommendations on where to dine from everyone—from old friends to my hotel concierge. Unsurprisingly, my list of must-visit spots became increasingly extensive, to the point where even a big eater like me couldn’t tackle them all. The beauty of pintxos lies in their bite-sized nature, often served with a toothpick or atop a slice of baguette, allowing for diverse flavors at every meal. However, it’s best not to overindulge at once: as inviting as that bar stool may be, limit yourself to ordering two or three pintxos before moving on to the next place. The quest for the ultimate pintxo makes the experience enjoyable.

Multiple routes will guide you through some of the city’s most delicious pintxos. After indulging in the local cuisine, I suggest beginning at Plaza Nueva, a square adorned with neoclassical architecture at the center of Bilbao’s Old Town. The square features a variety of bars where you can stroll in and sample the pintxos displayed at each counter. Be bold and try a range of flavors, but remain discerning; you don’t want to settle for anything less than exceptional. At Gure Toki and Sorginzulo, every dish is a masterpiece, and each pintxo is bursting with taste. You’ll even discover miniature versions of iconic Basque dishes like bacalao al pil pil.

Another fantastic area for a pintxo crawl is the Indautxu neighborhood, where you can't miss the oysters at El Puertito and the cheese-based pintxos at Gaztandegi. Pair them with a glass of local Txakoli wine for the full experience. The Old Town also boasts notable delights, such as stuffed mussels with béchamel sauce at Baste. Don’t forget to explore the riverside Mercado de la Ribera.

Step 3: Make reservations

If you want to savor local specialties like txuleta, be sure to book a table at a well-regarded steakhouse in advance.

After a day or two of sampling pintxos around town, treat yourself to a sit-down meal. For an unforgettable txuleta, I recommend Kate Zaharra, which is only open for lunch and requires booking at least two weeks ahead. This restaurant attracts a well-heeled crowd for Sunday family lunches, making it perfect for people-watching. Nestled high in the hills of Artxanda, the terrace offers breathtaking views, and taxis are easily accessible for your ride there.

Don’t leave the region without experiencing dishes like bacalao al pil pil and kokotxas. Victor, located in Plaza Nueva, has been serving the former since the 1940s, while Trueba, a top-rated restaurant with a contemporary dining space, sees its kokotxas and other seafood dishes fly off the menu.

If I had the chance to do it all over again…

I cannot stress enough the importance of making reservations—this applies to famous restaurants throughout most of Spain. The txuleta at Txakoli Simon came highly recommended by a trusted friend, yet I was unable to secure a booking even when I called two weeks in advance. Next time, I plan to try booking a month ahead. I’m also eager to visit some of the establishments recognized on the 2023 50 Best Restaurants in the World list: Asador Etxebarri, Mugaritz, and Elkano, all of which are located near Bilbao or San Sebastián.

Ultimately, I would heed my own advice and kick off my pintxos journey at Plaza Nueva. I missed out on several enticing pintxos at Gure Toki because I was too stuffed to enjoy more. That’s where I’ll begin my next visit.