How scientists are kept nourished and content in one of the most isolated regions on Earth
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East Antarctica holds the record for the coldest place on Earth. Its extreme elevation means even West Antarctica can’t compare to its harsh temperatures.
The Princess Elisabeth research station in Queen Maud Land faces fierce winds reaching speeds of up to 155 mph (249 kph) and temperatures plummeting to -58°F (-50°C). In such conditions, a talent for preparing comfort food is a must for any chef in charge.
"Given the extreme cold and brutal conditions outside, I like to prepare something rich and hearty, like fondue or raclette. And plenty of it," says chef Thomas Duconseille, who spends several months each year manning this remote Antarctic station.
With a group of cold, isolated scientists some 3,100 miles from the nearest city and over 9,900 miles from home, it’s no surprise that hot cheese is a comforting staple. Yet cooking in such extreme conditions presents challenges beyond just the menu.
Seven seasons spent in Antarctica
Princess Elisabeth is perched on the ridge next to Utsteinen Nunatak, a mountain aptly named 'the outer stone' in the Sør Rondane mountain range. From Duconseille’s office window, the view stretches over icy granite peaks and vast white plains, scattered with temporary accommodation units, lab containers, and wind turbines rising from the snow.
From November to February, the glacial, mountainous terrain is drenched in perpetual daylight – the sun dips below the ridge for only three hours a day. During this period, researchers from Belgium, France, Germany, Turkey, India, and the United States explore the surrounding 124 miles of mountains, coastlines, glaciers, and the Antarctic Plateau to conduct research and devise strategies to combat climate change. Some stay for just a few weeks, others for the full season. Duconseille, however, is present for the entire four-month stretch, marking his seventh consecutive season in Antarctica.
![Chef Thomas Duconseille spends several months each year working at the Princess Elisabeth Antarctica Research Station.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480852kmC/anh-mo-ta.png)
Princess Elisabeth, operated by the Brussels-based International Polar Foundation, has been in operation since early 2009, making it one of the newer polar research stations. Despite its youth, it stands as the world’s first zero-emission polar research station, powered entirely by renewable energy in one of the planet’s most extreme environments. It’s also an architectural marvel. Situated on a ridge, the station resembles a hexagonal spacecraft, its sleek silver panels mirroring the stark white of the surrounding polar landscape.
It’s almost unbelievable that inside, there’s fresh brioche baking.
"We bake our own bread here. Fresh bread is essential. I like to make brioche for breakfast with chocolate inside," says Duconseille. As a Frenchman, good bread is as much a part of life at his Antarctic station as it is in his hometown of Normandy, or in the Alps, where he spends much of the year cooking for another set of adventurers on Mont Blanc.
Given that Princess Elisabeth is a six-hour flight from the nearest city, Cape Town, South Africa, Duconseille makes sure that meat, fish, and vegetables are frozen to last through the season, and that eggs are stored in five-liter crates with yolks and whites separated. Fresh ingredients, however, are flown in monthly from Cape Town – weather permitting.
The complexities of sourcing fresh food for a remote outpost
At an elevation of 4,475 feet above sea level, Princess Elisabeth remains surprisingly warm and shielded from the harsh elements, thanks to a robust construction of woolen felt, heavy-duty Kraft paper, aluminum, wooden panels, polystyrene, waterproof membranes, polyethylene foam, and stainless steel.
"During the summer, we don't need to heat the station, as the sun's radiation and the warmth from our own presence inside are enough to keep the temperature between 20-21°C (68-69.8°F)," says Henri Robert, the science liaison officer at Princess Elisabeth.
A hybrid system of nine wind turbines and 408 solar photovoltaic panels harnesses the power of 100 days of non-stop sunlight and powerful winds to fuel the station.
"We have continuous daylight right now, as we're south of the Antarctic Circle. Thankfully, there's a mountain to the south that casts a bit of shade for a couple of hours as the sun dips behind it, only to rise again. But it never fully sets," explains Robert, a Belgian native.
![Princess Elisabeth is the world’s first zero-emission polar research station, relying entirely on renewable energy to operate in one of the harshest environments on Earth.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480852SRR/anh-mo-ta.png)
To reach Princess Elisabeth, the crew departs Cape Town aboard a DC-3 aircraft, which is ideal for transporting cargo and navigating icy airstrips. The flight lasts just over six hours, followed by a 90-minute drive from the airstrip to the station. Fresh supplies, including vegetables and milk, are also brought in by the DC-3, with monthly deliveries (weather permitting).
This setup might make those who rely on last-minute grocery runs for forgotten items like fresh herbs or cream uneasy, but Duconseille has fully adapted to the challenges of the job.
"Over time, I've become accustomed to waiting a month for fresh food deliveries. When I first started, it was tough, as fresh produce deteriorates quickly. But now, with experience, I know which items spoil first. We start with plenty of fresh salads in the first week, and I carefully manage the supplies to make them last as long as possible. By the fourth week, I’m still able to serve something tasty," says Duconseille.
Food management and storage challenges
The meals Duconseille prepares at Princess Elisabeth are diverse, ranging from soups and meats to pizzas, salads, quiches, and desserts. "There’s always a vegetarian or vegan option, so everyone has choices," says Duconseille. For special occasions like Christmas and New Year’s, the chef serves dishes such as foie gras, stuffed turkey, and iced nougat.
"As a diner, I can honestly say it feels like being in a restaurant. It’s fantastic – a full meal experience," says Robert.
The station typically accommodates between 20 to 30 crew members at any given time, but over the years, the facilities have been expanded to support 45 to 50 people. Crew members assist Duconseille in the kitchen by setting the table, washing and storing dishes, or peeling large amounts of potatoes. Providing sustenance is truly a team effort.
Due to the station's isolation and fluctuating crew numbers, it’s crucial to keep a reserve of essential food items stocked from one season to the next. Transporting long-lasting, non-perishable goods like grains, beans, and canned tomatoes presents a whole different set of challenges compared to the regular monthly fresh food shipments.
![Some supplies are shipped in containers all the way from Belgium.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480852rco/anh-mo-ta.png)
"From Belgium, we fill shipping containers with a large quantity of dried and frozen food, and every other year, a ship delivers these supplies," says Duconseille.
At the station, food is stored downstairs in a spacious room equipped with shelves for dry goods, a freezer the size of a shipping container (kept at -13°F), and a smaller fridge (ranging from 41-44°F). "We even have fridges that need to be heated, as some ingredients, like certain fruits, cannot be frozen," explains Duconseille.
Duconseille doesn’t plan his meals ahead of time, but keeps a well-stocked inventory so he always knows what ingredients are available. Given the precious nature of the fresh supplies, the role requires flexibility and creativity.
"I cook intuitively – based on the number of people and what ingredients are nearing expiration. It all depends on what we have at the time," says Duconseille.
Given the diverse polar landscapes in eastern Antarctica, scientists at Princess Elisabeth frequently embark on field trips. The chef plays a crucial role in ensuring these expeditions run smoothly.
"These field trips typically last two to three weeks and involve four to six people. I have to plan the meals they'll need while away from the station. Whenever I prepare a large meal, I freeze portions so the researchers can take them along, defrost them, and enjoy a hearty meal without losing valuable time in the field," says Duconseille.
![The station's crew members engage in scientific research and work on developing strategies to tackle climate change.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480852fiL/anh-mo-ta.png)
"I’ve always been fascinated by unique and unconventional landscapes," says Duconseille.
For the past ten years, Duconseille has managed several mountain huts in the French Alps, including the Goûter Hut on Mont Blanc, the highest wardened mountain hut in France.
"I’ve always been captivated by unusual landscapes, beautiful areas, and high-altitude locations. It’s a small community – the people who work in these remote regions – so a fellow cook recommended me to the station’s director. One job leads to another, and that’s how I transitioned from the Alps to Antarctica," explains Duconseille.
When the Antarctic summer ends, he returns to the French Alps, where he continues to provide food, shelter, and support to hikers tackling one of the five routes up Mont Blanc, which reaches an elevation of 15,771 feet (4,807 meters).
The crew at Princess Elisabeth works six days a week. Depending on the weather, Sunday is considered a 'fun day.' The team is free to join field guides and explore the nearby nunataks, mountain ridges that jut out from the ice like the spiny plates of a stegosaurus.
![The conditions at Princess Elisabeth station are incredibly harsh.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480852lCr/anh-mo-ta.png)
"I enjoy hiking in the mountains with the team, and since I’m also a runner, I like to jog along the 1.2-mile-long airstrip. But on most Sundays, I prefer to read, take a nap, and get ready for the week ahead," says Duconseille.
Some of the team members enjoy cross-country skiing, while others take it up a notch by heading to the larger slope for alpine skiing. Naturally, there are no ski lifts, so what goes down must be climbed back up – unless you want to skip the second run. Robert, a biologist and birdwatcher, makes the most of the rare access to the pristine Antarctic environment.
"We have 124 miles of ice before we reach the coast. Within this vast area, we’re surrounded by incredible wildlife, including bird colonies nesting here – so we’re never truly alone. It’s always a thrill to come here because I’m passionate about birds. When I get the chance, I head to the nunatak to observe the birds, or I simply rest on Sunday. It all depends on the weather," says Robert.
Food and morale are deeply connected.
![Every month, fresh food, including vegetables and milk, is delivered via DC-3, weather permitting.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480852NUA/anh-mo-ta.png)
Duconseille’s extensive experience managing remote mountain huts has equipped him not only with culinary skills but also with the ability to create a homely atmosphere in such isolated settings.
With subglacial lakes, katabatic winds, and a massive crater believed to lie beneath the eastern ice sheet, Antarctica feels more like an alien world than just the most isolated continent on Earth. While the station is comfortable and well-equipped (Robert described it as "very pleasant... like a Swiss chalet"), the extreme isolation, harsh polar weather, and long months away from family can challenge even the most resilient individuals.
"In Antarctica, food plays a key role in boosting team morale – it’s crucial to bring people together and keep their spirits high after a long day. I enjoy baking desserts and cakes to bring a bit of joy at the end of each day," says Duconseille.
While the chef delights the crew with golden brioche and melted cheese, what is it that brings him his own sense of joy?
"The first few days are tough when I leave my family behind. But once I arrive, the work takes over, and I’m mesmerized by the stunning surroundings. Life becomes exciting, and there’s always something happening. We’re responsible for caring for many people and supporting important scientific work," says Duconseille.
Leaving Antarctica is a bittersweet experience.
"At the end of the summer, we’re eager to return home, but it’s a mixed feeling: there’s sadness in leaving Antarctica behind," says Duconseille. "It’s such a remarkable place, and the life we have here is truly one of a kind."
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