How the resurgence of lava has fueled optimism for Hawaiʻi's recovery

Just five days before Christmas, Cheryl Gansecki, a volcanologist from the University of Hawaiʻi Hilo, was awakened by a small earthquake around 9:30 p.m.

She immediately checked the summit webcams of Kīlauea Volcano, and was astonished to see the intense, fiery glow emerging from the crater.

It was the lava. It had returned.

Without hesitation, she drove the 45 minutes to the crater rim, near the Visitors Center at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. By 10:45 p.m., news had spread quickly.

"There were already crowds of people, and traffic was backed up," Gansecki recalled.

The last time Kīlauea erupted with lava was in the summer of 2018, when it ravaged neighborhoods and destroyed over 700 homes.

Despite the danger, many felt drawn to witness the eruption. According to the park, hundreds of cars arrived within hours, filled with a mix of locals, scientists, photographers, and business owners.

They gathered at the Kīlauea Overlook, where the vibrant orange glow of the crater lit up the night, casting reflections on the lush green trees and rugged brown rocks.

That night, everyone had the same burning questions: What will this eruption lead to? Will it bring stability and help revive the island's pandemic-ravaged economy? Could it draw travelers to Hawaiʻi to witness one of nature’s most spectacular displays?

No one could predict the outcome as they went to bed that night, but fast forward to today, and optimism is spreading across the island.

At present, there are no signs of rapid decline or dangerous intensification of the eruption, says Matt Patrick, a research geologist with the US Geological Survey (USGS). The USGS predicts the eruption will remain stable for the short term, with lava contained within the summit crater, safe for all to witness.

Ironically, the return of the hot, potentially destructive lava has sparked hope that 2021 could be a better year for tourism than 2020.

A spark for tourism

Jason Cohn, president of Hawaiʻi Forest & Trail, an adventure tour company, also woke up that night to witness the eruption. He drove two and a half hours from his home near Kona, hopeful it would ignite renewed interest and bring in new business, as past eruptions had done.

It didn’t take long for that intuition to prove true.

The very next day, he started receiving inquiries about his volcano tours, which had been paused due to a lack of demand during the pandemic. Now, they’re back up and running.

A similar story unfolded at Paradise Helicopters, where they were able to reopen their Hilo location, which had been closed due to Covid, thanks to a surge in demand for helicopter tours over Kīlauea.

Hawaiʻi Volcano Vacations, a vacation rental agency near Kīlauea Crater, has seen an increase in both bookings and the length of stays since the eruption began.

Unsurprisingly, visitation to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park has more than doubled compared to its pre-eruption levels in 2020.

For Ross Birch, executive director of the Island of Hawaiʻi Visitors Bureau, the ongoing eruption is a welcomed boost for the state’s tourism industry, which has suffered a 75% decline from the previous year.

"It’s a breath of fresh air compared to what we’ve been experiencing," Birch remarked.

The morning after – piecing together what happened

The mood was uncertain when the eruption began, and by the next morning, volcanic gas – or “vog,” as locals call it – had settled over the island.

However, from a geological perspective, things started to make sense as volcanologists at the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory helped the public understand the events of the previous night.

The first signs emerged weeks earlier, when an ‘intrusion’ of lava was detected moving beneath the surface into the crater, increasing pressure. Earthquakes began occurring more frequently.

The eruption reached its peak on the night of December 20. The ground split open, releasing pressure that sent lava rushing into the crater, spraying upwards and cascading down the walls in fiery red, orange, and bright white streams.

It was only the start of a breathtaking display.

The lava poured into an area where a water lake had been forming for two years, measuring 430 feet wide, 885 feet across, and 160 feet deep.

The lake evaporated completely in just 90 minutes.

Lava kept flowing through Christmas and New Year's, forming a lava lake that deepened with each passing day.

On January 5th, a stunning event called a Dome Fountain emerged in the crater, with the mesmerizing video quickly going viral across media outlets.

Since then, the lava's flow has fluctuated, but it has never ceased. After over a month and a half of consistent filling, the lava lake is now approaching 700 feet deep and continues to rise.

And, if the lava keeps rising, things could get even more spectacular.

Exploring the volcano – what to expect

Currently, the best way to witness the lava is by taking a helicopter ride.

On a clear day, hovering above, you can watch the lava spill from the crater walls and fill the lava lake below. The flight also circles around past eruption sites on Kīlauea, with the pilot's narration providing insightful context.

Given the crater's depth and the viewing angles, aerial tours remain the only way to get a close-up view of the molten lava.

If the idea of a helicopter ride leaves you feeling uneasy, don't worry: more accessible viewing options may soon be available.

As per USGS's Patrick, the lava level is rising by more than three feet each day. If this trend continues, the lava lake might be visible from public viewing spots in the National Park by April.

With the successful rollout of the vaccine, there's hope for a busy spring. Hawaiʻi has already implemented a pre-arrival testing program that allows visitors to skip quarantine, and talks are underway for a program to allow vaccinated travelers to bypass quarantine starting next month.

How to witness the 'glow'

For now, the stunning nightly glow at Kīlauea offers visitors a chance to experience the radiance of the lava and the dramatic reflection of its light as it burns at over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

"Volcanoes tap into something deeply primal," Gansecki remarked. "They're enormous and powerful, and standing near them, even just feeling a hint of their power, is truly awe-inspiring."

When night falls, head to the Kīlauea Overlook or any point along the Crater Rim Trail. The glow is most intense just after sunset, though it's never too crowded; for those seeking solitude, sunrise is the best time (the park is open around the clock). For a more adventurous experience, consider hiking the mile-long trail to Keanakākoʻi.

Regardless of when you go, make sure to pack warm layers, a flashlight, and a rain jacket. Kīlauea Crater sits over 4,000 feet above sea level, much cooler than the coastal areas.

Prepare for your visit by watching the documentary "Kīlauea: Hawaiʻi on Fire" and be sure to consider the cultural significance as well.

The Kīlauea caldera, or Kaluapele, holds great spiritual significance for Native Hawaiians, being the home of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes in Hawaiian mythology.

Bobby Camara, a naturalist and former park ranger who writes a local volcano blog, encourages visitors to respect the park's role in preserving the spiritual legacy of Native Hawaiians, much like how Mesa Verde National Park protects the cultural history of the Pueblo Indians.

Kīlauea is always a remarkable place, but it feels even more sacred when Pele illuminates the way, signaling that she is at peace.

"Pele has returned to the summit crater, in a location where she poses no threat to homes or livelihoods," shared Jessica Ferracane, a park employee with over 10 years of experience.

"For me, it's a comforting feeling to know that she’s calm and secure," Ferracane added.