How to Discover Inca Ruins at Machu Picchu – Without the Crowds
There are ways to uncover lesser-known trekking paths to reach the stunning Machu Picchu. Here, our Peru expert Luke Waterson, who has contributed to multiple editions of the Dinogo Planet Peru guide, offers some recommendations.
Question: I want to visit Peru and hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, but I’ve heard it can be quite crowded. Is that true? Are there ways to avoid the crowds or find alternative routes?
Luke Waterson: Steering clear of the crowds at one of Latin America’s top attractions isn’t simple. However, there are a few strategies to escape the throngs if you’re seeking a breathtaking trek through the Andes to remarkable Inca ruins.
The site is incredibly stunning, which naturally draws crowds. This is the case for all of the world’s most iconic landmarks, isn’t it? Machu Picchu is no different. Few places in South America – or the entire globe – rival the awe of the 15th-century Inca citadel rising from the clouds after a trek or train journey through some of the most extraordinary Andean landscapes. And few destinations experience such overwhelming visitor numbers, either.
Be prepared, as Machu Picchu welcomes over 4000 visitors each day © ShutterstockWhen considering the peaks surrounding the citadel – Huayna Picchu, Cerro Machu Picchu, and Huchuy Picchu – the daily visitor count reaches nearly 4000, with even more crowding the gateway town of Aguas Calientes. The takeaway? This is not a destination for tranquility. This situation has worsened since my first visit in 2004, when one could arrive at dawn and experience the ruins in a (relatively) less crowded state. Thus, no matter what advice I provide, those crowds are here to stay: not just at Machu Picchu itself, but also along the classic four-day Inca Trail trek, the most renowned walking route to reach it.
What is the experience like at the Machu Picchu site?
At the site, arriving early no longer guarantees solitude, as many others now follow the same strategy. However, getting there early does help you avoid the busiest mid-morning to early-afternoon crowds. The layout of Machu Picchu – with its narrow paths and limited flat spaces – means you will inevitably feel somewhat crowded with fellow explorers. Even climbing the famous Huayna Picchu peak, which is limited to 200 visitors daily, won’t provide much seclusion as you navigate past others on the narrow trail. On the flip side, the less popular hike up Cerro Machu Picchu (Machu Picchu Mountain) offers broader views and is far less frequented.
But now that I’ve mentioned that…
Since nearly all visitors opt for the classic Inca Trail route, you’ll find the crowds less intrusive if you choose one of the lesser-known treks to the site. Peruvian authorities are quite clever in creating new attractions for travelers, and nowadays, there are numerous fantastic hikes in the area. Some of these even pass by (other) remarkable Inca ruins along the way.
On the Lares trek, you’ll encounter more alpaca herders than tourists © bchyla / ShutterstockExplore your own path on The Lares Trek
For a wealth of tranquility and authenticity, I highly suggest the Lares Trek. As you navigate enchanting mountain passes like Ipsayjasa and camp by the sparkling Ipsaycocha Lake, you’re just as likely to encounter local families—alpaca herders and skilled weavers—as fellow hikers. The trail offers multiple variations, allowing you to forge your own unique path instead of following the crowds on the Inca Trail. The routes begin in the town of Lares, with the most popular leading to Patacancha and then continuing (on foot or more commonly by bus) to the picturesque town of Ollantaytambo (home to its own impressive ruins), where you can catch a train to Aguas Calientes and onward to Machu Picchu.
The archaeological site of Choquequirao rivals Machu Picchu – minus the crowds © Christian Declercq / ShutterstockWhy you should explore Choquequirao
Don’t assume that only the Machu Picchu area has hikes to Inca ruins. To escape the crowds, I recommend trekking to another breathtaking Inca complex. Head to Dinogo Cachora, located off the Cusco-Abancay road, and embark on the four-day round-trip hike to the expansive archaeological site of Choquequirao, which dramatically overlooks the Apurímac River. If you spend the entire day there, you’ll only share the stunning views with about 20 other travelers on average. Plus, you can do this independently—no tours or months of advance booking required, unlike the Inca Trail.
If this sparks your desire to explore, consider embarking on a truly remote adventure by turning this into a nine-day, one-way trek from Cachora, passing through a series of rarely-visited Inca ruins before reaching Machu Picchu. After spending all that time alone on the trail, you might find yourself appreciating the company when you finally arrive.
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