How to enjoy an unforgettable weekend in Lyon

Whenever Lyon is suggested in our France content, it's celebrated for its laid-back vibe, renowned culinary scene, and rich artistic heritage.

So when Lyon Tourism invited me to explore the city, my first question was, ‘When should I come?’ The second was, ‘What culinary delights can I expect?’

After experiencing the city myself, here’s my guide on how to make the most of your weekend in Lyon.

Trip Planning

Best time to visit: Anytime you prefer. If you come during the week, you’re less likely to need reservations at some eateries. Summer Saturdays are generally the only time you might encounter crowds in Lyon.

Airport transfer: Reaching Lyon’s city center is straightforward. Just exit the terminal and follow the signs (and the crowd) to the train station across the street. The Rhônexpress (€15.20 one way) will whisk you to the city center in about 30 minutes.

Exploring the city: Lyon offers a variety of public transport options, including buses, metros, and trams. If you have the time and desire, strolling through the city is a joy. If you plan to use public transport frequently, consider getting the Lyon City Card, which covers all public transport and grants access to museums and other activities. Cards are available for one to four days, starting at €26.90 for 24 hours.

Accommodations: I stayed at Collège Hôtel, a school-themed hotel housed in an Art Deco building (be sure to check out the chair display on the exterior walls). Another great option is the Pilo hostel, which caters to travelers of all kinds, offering everything from dormitories to family rooms. It also hosts a full lineup of events each week.

If budget allows, consider booking a room at the luxurious 5-star InterContinental Lyon, situated in the beautifully restored Grand Hôtel-Dieu, a former hospital with a rich history connected to the city.

What to wear: Opt for smart-casual attire. In Vieux Lyon (the Old Town), cobblestones can be tricky, so it's wise to leave the high heels at home.

Friday

Morning: Start your day with a coffee and a praline pastry from a local bakery. Praline is a specialty of Lyon, famous for its vibrant pink hue, often found in tarts or brioche. Use this sugary boost to hike up to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (or opt for the funicular, which is a gentler option).

Step inside the church to appreciate the beautiful mosaics that highlight the bond between the Virgin Mary and France. The exterior offers a stunning panoramic view of Lyon, perfect for getting your bearings as you take in the Rhône and Saône rivers flanking the peninsula.

How to spend the day: Begin your descent but don’t rush too far—start with a visit to the Roman theaters of Lugdunum. The experience of stepping into this ancient venue is worth the €4 entry fee, and there’s also a museum on-site. The theater is still active today, so if a concert like Nuits de Fourvière is happening during your visit, be sure to grab a ticket.

For a relaxing lunch, choose between two lovely picnic spots: the charming Jardin des Curiosités or the rose-filled Jardin du Rosaire. Both locations offer stunning city views, making them perfect for enjoying the scenery and your bottle of wine (it's perfectly acceptable to sip wine during a picnic lunch in France).

Head back to Vieux Lyon for a leisurely afternoon stroll, wandering through picturesque alleyways and independent boutiques. Be sure to explore at least one public traboule, the charming stone corridors that offer winding shortcuts through the neighborhood. These corridors often run behind apartments and are only public by the kindness of residents, so please maintain a quiet demeanor as you pass through.

Dinner: Start your culinary journey in Lyon with a meal at a traditional bouchon. These local bistros have a rich history of serving silk workers, focusing on hearty, regional dishes in a cozy atmosphere. There are 22 officially certified bouchons, identifiable by a unique symbol, although many other eateries use the name as well.

I dined at Les Fines Gueules, where I made a commendable attempt to sample a variety of dishes from the menu. Expect robust meals meant to satisfy workers for the day, including hearty options like poached eggs in red wine with bacon, terrines, veal sausage, fish soufflé, mini ravioli, and of course, a delightful praline tart for dessert.

After dark: La Cave des Voyageurs is an ideal spot for an after-dinner drink, boasting a wide selection and knowledgeable staff (fluent in English) who can recommend great options at good prices. It's a cozy haven for solo travelers; I enjoyed a delightful hour sipping on Beaujolais, alternating between my own reflections and observing new friends forming across the bar.

Saturday

Morning:  Dive deeper into Lyonnaise culture by visiting Maison des Canuts, a charming museum and workshop dedicated to the city’s silk industry, which has been a part of Lyon's heritage for over five centuries. Excellent guided tours are available at 11am and 3:30pm. You can also purchase silk scarves at reasonable prices, along with fabric sold by weight.

Next, head over to Grand Hôtel Dieu. This medieval hospital has been beautifully transformed into a vibrant space featuring cafes, courtyards, gardens, boutiques selling Lyon-made goods, and a luxury hotel.

How to spend the day: Arrive at Les Petites Cantines in Vieux Lyon for lunch at 12:30pm (make sure to book in advance). This community kitchen initiative aims to foster connections through cooking, and this location is one of the few in a tourist-friendly area. You're invited to help with food prep in the morning, but simply enjoying the meal is perfectly fine too. Sit at a communal table and engage with locals in a warm, friendly setting—basic French is totally welcome! Prices are affordable, and the homemade dishes (think lasagna, salads, and gratin) are exceptional. It will be an experience you’ll remember for weeks.

Maintain the community vibe by spending your afternoon in the Les Pentes de la Croix Rousse area, discovering vintage and boutique stores filled with clothing and art, while hopping between cozy coffee shops. This neighborhood is also renowned for its street art, so remember to look up often.

Dinner: Make a reservation for an unforgettable dining experience at one of Lyon’s renowned restaurants. The city boasts 21 Michelin-starred establishments, alongside many other exceptional dining options. I highly recommend L’Atelier des Augustins. Their culinary philosophy is simple: all ingredients are sourced from within a 200km radius of Lyon (with a few exceptions for spices), and each menu is a delightful surprise.

During my visit, the menu celebrated earthy, spring, and floral flavors: wild garlic brioche paired with blackberry jam, white sausage served with snails, fish accompanied by peas and strawberries, and pigeon with rhubarb presented three ways. The most surprising dish was a Champagne tasting course, a unique experience that taught me Champagne truly complements everything.

Sunday

Morning: Start your day by picking up a pastry along with a substantial sandwich or quiche for later at Boulangerie du Palais. Then, relax in Parc de la Tête d’Or, one of the largest urban parks in France. You can take a bike or Segway tour with ComhiC (just around the corner from the bakery), or opt to rent a scooter or bike for a self-guided exploration. The park features highlights such as a botanical garden and a rose garden, and on sunny days, paddleboats are available for rent on the lake.

How to spend the day: After enjoying your picnic lunch, head downstream to Musée des Confluences. This museum boasts intriguing permanent exhibitions exploring the origins of life, societal developments, and concepts of death, among others. The temporary exhibitions vary widely, addressing topics from epidemics to love, so allow plenty of time to wander. As an added bonus, you'll enjoy stunning views of 'the confluence' where Lyon's two rivers meet, providing a perfect final perspective of the city.

You’ll undoubtedly leave Lyon feeling well-fed, satisfied, and with a list of additional restaurants to try on your next visit. Be sure to keep these in mind for your inevitable return to this remarkable city.

AnneMarie McCarthy traveled to Lyon at the invitation of Visiter Lyon. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.