How to organize an overland journey through West Africa

At Dinogo Plan-it, we guide you through the intricacies of planning some of the most challenging travel adventures. We consulted Juan Martinez to share his approach to orchestrating an overland trip across West Africa.

West Africa can surprise you with its patience-testing challenges, but it also offers unparalleled adventure. For those ready to venture beyond their comfort zones, the roads here deliver an incredibly rewarding travel experience.

In this area, towering skyscrapers and vibrant markets exist alongside traditional villages and pristine landscapes. From the bustling markets of Serekunda and Grand Bassam to the natural reserves in The Gambia and the secluded beaches along Sierra Leone’s shores, West Africa continuously astounds its visitors.

I set off on a four-week overland journey with five friends, starting from Senegal and ending in Côte d’Ivoire. Here are some helpful tips and tricks for planning a similarly adventurous overland trip.

Step 1: Choose your route

What are your destinations, and how long will you stay?

With 19 countries to discover, the first step in crafting your West African journey is to select which ones to visit and how long you’ll spend in each. Consider potential routes and how much time you'd like to allocate to each nation. Remember, travel times can vary greatly, and crossing borders may take longer than expected. For instance, covering just 100km can sometimes take half a day.

After outlining your general route, identify your key destinations based on flight options and ease of access to other locations. West Africa can be unpredictable, and sometimes having no strict plans is the best approach. However, it's still crucial to establish a rough itinerary that aligns with your timing and budget. For my journey, I selected Dakar as my starting point and Abidjan as my final destination, which allowed me to traverse the West African coast through seven countries, covering nearly 3500km in just a few weeks.

Step 2: Establish and manage your budget

What is your budget for transportation, accommodation, and activities?

Preparing for the costs associated with a long journey through West Africa is essential. Due to limited infrastructure and access to basic needs, you may find yourself spending more than you would in other regions. Visa fees, pricey flights (both domestic and international), and unforeseen expenses can add up quickly, so having extra cash available is vital for a comfortable trip.

Since cash remains the primary currency in West Africa, plan how you will access funds during your travels. While some hotels and businesses might accept credit cards, it’s best not to rely on them. Each member of our group carried various currencies for emergencies, including US dollars, euros, and West African francs. We also aimed to keep cash on hand for as long as possible, using credit cards whenever feasible.

Step 3: Choose your mode of transportation

How comfortably do you wish to travel?

After setting your budget, determining your desired destinations, and planning the length of your stay, it’s time to select the ideal transportation method for your West African adventure. Options include buses, private taxis, overland tours, personal drivers, or even your own vehicle, allowing you to tailor your experience to be as comfortable or adventurous as you desire.

While public transport offers a budget-friendly option for backpackers, it can severely limit your connections and lead to longer travel times. Conversely, using your own vehicle grants you more flexibility and independence, but requires thorough planning, permits, and insurance.

For me, achieving a balance between time, comfort, and experience was crucial. My group and I decided to hire two private cars along with a driver (Marlon Read from Thiosane Travel), who has extensive experience with border crossings, local officials, and the best routes. This choice allowed us to travel independently and comfortably while avoiding the stress of long drives and paperwork.

If you’d rather leave the planning to professionals, companies like Madventure and Lupine Travel provide guided tours, albeit at a higher price. Whatever you decide, be ready for unexpected costs and try to ascertain the total expense in advance.

Step 4: Enhance your trip by planning stops along the way

What sights are you hoping to experience during your journey?

Are you interested in wildlife, culture, landscapes, or beaches? West Africa is rich in natural experiences, and regardless of which countries you visit, there will be plenty of activities to enjoy along the way. My go-to resource for activities in each country was Dinogo Planet West Africa, and after exploring potential destinations, I had to assess how accessible they were and how they fit into my overall travel plan.

Fortunately, unlike in Europe or the US, most national parks and attractions in West Africa are relatively uncrowded, so you won't need to book ahead. Plus, Facebook travel groups like Backpacking Africa and West Africa Travelers provide current information on local sites. Often, you can find the WhatsApp contact of a local guide eager to show you around.

Some highlights of my trip included swimming at the summit of Kambadaga Falls in Guinea, enjoying a leisurely boat ride through River Gambia National Park, and exploring the charming town of Bafatá in Guinea-Bissau. Unplanned moments, like participating in an initiation ceremony in Sierra Leone and celebrating late into the night in Monrovia, Liberia, enriched my experience immeasurably.

Ultimately, traveling in West Africa can be tiring, so it's vital to pace yourself and take breaks when necessary. I discovered that our longer stops often became the most cherished memories. Spending several days unwinding on the stunning beaches of Freetown in Sierra Leone or exploring the delightful villages of Guinea-Bissau provided a refreshing change from long drives, allowing me to fully engage with the journey.

Step 5: Get your paperwork in order

What visas and documentation do you need to arrange ahead of time?

Obtaining visas for West Africa can be quite complex compared to other regions. Due to limited diplomatic representation, citizens from many countries might have to send their passport to a different city or even another country to apply for a visa.

While it's possible to secure all your visas while traveling, I recommend obtaining as many as you can before your journey. Applying for visas on the road can lead to frustrating delays, requiring you to spend one or more days waiting for your paperwork to be processed.

Visas for nations like Guinea-Bissau or The Gambia are best acquired in Dakar, but if you can get visas for countries like Liberia or Côte d’Ivoire in your home country, I suggest doing so to avoid lengthy waits and the unpleasant chance of having to pay bribes to expedite the process.

Although my group and I managed to secure all the visas we could while in Europe, we still lost an entire day waiting at the Guinea consulate in Dakar because some e-visas for our group hadn’t been approved in time.

Additionally, I spent an entire day in Freetown hustling from place to place to secure my Côte d’Ivoire visa. Unfortunately, my overland travel application was denied by the consulate in Berlin, which forced me to navigate the complexities of obtaining the visa on-site. Be prepared for such hurdles.

Step 6: Embrace your adventure and be ready for surprises

How do you plan to have no plans?

In West Africa, remarkable and unexpected experiences can arise at any moment. From vibrant ceremonies with colorful masks and attire to spontaneous parties where we found ourselves as the guests of honor, the greatest reward of overland travel in West Africa was the uncertainty of how each day would unfold.

Admittedly, some days were consumed by car troubles or lengthy 15-hour drives. Yet, other days left me feeling grateful and lucky to be in that place at that time.

While we generally knew where we wanted to spend the night and what hotel options were available, it took about a week of trial and error to understand that we couldn’t approach travel in West Africa as we would in Europe. We learned to relax, accept the unpredictability, and savor every moment of the journey.

If I had the chance to do it all over again...

West Africa is evolving, and the overland journey I experienced this time may not be possible in a few years. Rapid development, globalization, and enhanced infrastructure are driving progress in this region, but these changes also make the unique cultural experiences it offers even more valuable.

I discovered the joy in small moments: being the only person meandering through a market or getting invited to dance with a local community. Moreover, simply being on the road for an extended period added richness to this experience. Spending at least 15 full days in a vehicle with four others can be quite draining; throughout the journey, we shared laughter, forged bonds, faced frustrations, and (yes) had our disagreements. Ultimately, however, the adventure brought us closer together and highlighted the beauty of travel.