How tofu transformed from a bland food staple to one of the hottest trends in the culinary world

Inside what seems like an ordinary industrial building in Hong Kong, something unusual is happening.

Vicky Lau, the chef-owner of the two-Michelin-starred Tate Dining Room, and Romain Herbreteau, the former operations director of French fine-dining chain Dominique Bouchet, are hustling around a massive soy milk machine they built themselves just weeks earlier.

“We ordered the machine from Taiwan, but with Covid-19 restrictions, they couldn’t set it up for us. So, it was just Romain and me, unboxing and assembling it ourselves. We had no idea if it was going to explode or what!” Lau shared with Dinogo Travel.

Standing at two meters tall, this contraption is central to Lau and Herbreteau’s new project: Mora, a modern French-Chinese restaurant that highlights soy, one of the most overlooked ingredients in the culinary world.

Opened in 2022, Mora has quickly made its mark, earning a spot in Michelin's online guide, with reservations now requiring a two-month wait.

Lau conceived the idea for Mora while developing a tasting menu titled 'Ode to Tofu' for Tate in 2020.

It was love at first bite.

The texture of tofu is what truly makes it stand out. No other ingredient offers such a diverse range, from the delicate softness of silken tofu to the hearty firmness of mock meat, says Lau.

To create the finest tofu in town, you must first make the best soy milk. That’s where the specialized machine plays a crucial role.

Herbreteau, now a soy milk expert, begins by soaking the beans for about 10 hours before placing them in the machine. The beans are then ground at a rate of 60 seconds per kilogram and cooked for 5 to 10 minutes until they reach 98°C (208.4°F).

For nine minutes, Herbreteau watches the flowmeter closely – a device that tracks the speed of water passing through. Soon after, the soy milk is extracted, filling the room with the rich scent of Japanese-style tonyu, known for its creamy texture and lower water-to-soybean ratio.

We could immediately notice the difference with the first batch. It's incredibly creamy, and you can truly taste the beans, says Lau.

The surge in tofu’s popularity during the pandemic.

Lau’s fascination with soy and tofu isn’t unique.

A cornerstone of East Asian cuisine for over 2,000 years, tofu has recently seen a surge in popularity, with demand reaching new heights during the pandemic.

According to Nielsen data, tofu sales in the United States saw a 40% increase in the first half of 2020. Meanwhile, in the UK, the tofu market is projected to experience a compound annual growth rate of 14.68% from 2021 to 2026.

Lau explains that the pandemic played a role in inspiring the creation of Mora.

Mora’s concept was born during the pandemic, as I reflected on what kind of chef I wanted to be. I didn’t just want to be a fine dining chef—I wanted to make a positive impact in the world too, says Lau.

Over the past ten years, Lau has noticed that sourcing some ingredients has become increasingly difficult.

It’s disheartening to realize that I’m contributing to the loss of these natural treasures, says Lau.

This is something we all need to reflect on, she adds.

With Mora and the factory, Lau isn’t aiming to convert everyone to vegetarianism—Mora isn’t a vegetarian restaurant—but she hopes that by educating people on the process of making soy and offering fresh tofu, they’ll develop a deeper appreciation for it.

The philosophy behind Mora is all about modernizing tofu as a tradition and encouraging people to include it more consciously in their diets.

Okutan: A tofu restaurant in Kyoto with a history spanning three centuries

According to legend, tofu was discovered by Liu An, a health-conscious Chinese prince, more than 2,000 years ago while attempting to create an elixir. He noticed that soy milk left under certain conditions would coagulate into a pudding-like consistency – thus giving birth to tofu.

However, records mentioning tofu didn’t appear until the 900s during China’s Song Dynasty. It’s widely believed that Buddhist monks who visited China brought tofu back to neighboring countries such as Japan.

The tradition of making tofu is still strongly upheld in Kyoto, where numerous restaurants specializing in temple cuisine and traditional dishes remain abundant.

Okutan, established over 380 years ago, is one of Kyoto's oldest tofu eateries. Tofu is still handmade in the basement every day.

“When I was a child, I didn’t care much for tofu, and only enjoyed the dengaku tofu (skewered tofu with miso glaze) that my grandmother would make for me,” says Tadasuke Ogura, the 16th-generation owner of Okutan Kiyomizu, now 47 years old. “It wasn’t until my father asked for my help that I began to appreciate the true depth of tofu,” he recalls.

In his 30s, Ogura left his own career to dedicate more time to his family’s restaurant.

The restaurant's signature dish is Mukashi-tofu, or 'olden days' tofu, a traditional set that reflects the deep history of tofu making.

The meal starts with goma tofu, a chilled sesame tofu pudding, followed by dengaku tofu, and then the renowned yutofu, which consists of tofu cubes gently simmered in dashi broth.

“Mukashi-tofu is crafted entirely by hand. Even if you’ve learned the process, you can’t truly make it. It requires years of experience and a developed sensitivity to the tofu, recognizing it through both sight and touch,” explains Ogura.

Straws filled with coarse sea salt are suspended in the moist basement. The salt naturally forms a seawater solution due to the room's humidity.

This solution is carefully harvested and concentrated – “that’s our secret” – to create a special coagulant that is then added to freshly pressed soy milk to make tofu.

Ogura believes this method is what sets Okutan apart from other tofu shops in Kyoto.

The global journey of tofu: From Ben Franklin to a Chinese spy

Although tofu has been a staple in East Asia for over a millennium, it took much longer for the rest of the world to embrace it.

In 1770, Benjamin Franklin, one of America’s founding fathers, sent a letter from London, along with some soybeans, praising a 'Chinese cheese.' This letter is considered one of the earliest references to tofu in the West.

Li Shizeng, a former spy who became a tofu advocate and political activist, is often credited with helping tofu gain recognition beyond Asia.

Legend has it that Li was initially sent to France as a spy by the Chinese government. Instead, he attended an agricultural school in Montargis, where he developed a passion for promoting tofu in Europe.

In 1908, he established a tofu factory in Paris, secured the world’s first soy milk patents, authored books, and even hosted an elegant tofu-themed luncheon, featuring dishes like soy cheese and vegetarian ham.

William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, on their Soy Info Center website, describe him as the first person from East Asia to view soy foods from a Western perspective, recognizing their vast potential in the West and playing a crucial role in introducing soy foods across cultures.

The works of Shurtleff and Aoyagi in 'The Book of Tofu' and Frances Moore Lappé’s 'Diet for a Small Planet,' both from the 1970s, are credited with helping popularize tofu in the Western world.

Dispelling common myths surrounding tofu

Mark Messina, a doctor, stands out in the US for his deep obsession with tofu, a passion he first encountered in the 1970s.

"My martial arts instructor told me that adopting a vegetarian diet would enhance my skills," he recalls.

His sister introduced him to scrambled tofu, a dish made with firm tofu and turmeric. He quickly became a fan, and it became a regular part of his meals.

Messina’s professional focus on tofu didn’t start until 1989, when he became the program director for the National Cancer Institute’s Diet and Cancer Branch.

Messina was tasked with pinpointing promising research areas when he received an inquiry regarding the link between soybeans and breast cancer prevention.

"An administrative assistant brought the note to me because she knew I was a tofu eater," Messina shares with Dinogo Travel.

Within a few months, he organized a workshop discussing the role of soy in cancer prevention and treatment, and published the results.

"As I delved deeper into soy, I became fascinated by its potential benefits beyond cancer. So, in 1992, I made the bold decision to leave the NCI and dedicate myself entirely to soy research. I didn’t have a job lined up, and looking back, it was a risky choice that actually paid off," says Messina.

He currently serves as the director of nutrition science and research at the Soy Nutrition Institute, a non-profit organization composed of food industry leaders, scientists, and soybean farmers, all dedicated to promoting soy-based foods.

Messina pointed out that many misconceptions still surround soy products, such as the belief that tofu increases the risk of breast cancer.

He noted that modern clinical research has disproven these myths.

"The scientific consensus has shifted significantly as research has progressed. While animal studies in the 1990s suggested that soy could be harmful for women with a history of breast cancer, current human studies – which are far more relevant – show that soy could actually be beneficial," explains Messina.

He suggests consuming half a cup of tofu and other soy products two to three times a week, particularly for young girls.

"Tofu is affordable, incredibly versatile, and easily accessible. In addition to being a great source of protein, it also provides calcium and is packed with isoflavones," says Messina.

"While I can’t predict trends, it’s clear that more Americans are becoming familiar with tofu and incorporating it into their diets. The growing focus on plant-based proteins has certainly spotlighted foods like tofu. As people enjoy the new wave of soy burgers, I believe they’ll become more open to trying traditional soy-based dishes," he adds.

Tofu in contemporary fine dining

At Mora, tofu is reimagined with a contemporary twist.

"It’s a whole new perspective on tofu," says Lau.

The tasting menu focuses on textures, with dishes that evolve with the changing seasons.

The current menu begins with the texture "Silken," featuring a homemade velvet tofu paired with condiments like century egg and caviar, alongside slippery cold noodles served in a chicken and soy milk broth.

Next, the menu features "Crisp" (a crispy tofu sheet salad), "Jade" (crispy chicken marinated in red tofu), "Dew" (a tofu stew), and "Ice" (a tofu crème brûlée with soy sauce).

"Many people associate tofu with illness and consider it bland," says Lau. "But it can be used in countless ways."

"When I think about a dish, it’s not just about the protein – it’s about the marination, the texture, and the temperature. There are so many elements involved. We hope to broaden people’s minds and show them how tofu can be enjoyed in different forms," says Lau.

For example, Mora’s stew of the day is a mapo tofu-inspired dish that combines lobsters with two types of tofu – silken and frozen tofu.

"Frozen tofu is made by soaking regular tofu in water and freezing it. When thawed, the ice crystals within create holes, making the tofu sponge-like and perfect for soaking up flavors," explains Lau.

She’s already thinking about her next creations.

"I’m experimenting with ideas like smoky tofu. With mushroom season approaching, a mushroom tofu stew sounds perfect. And for Christmas, imagine pairing a hot cup of soy with a flan tart made from okara flour (soy pulp)," Lau envisions.

Top photo: Soybeans are used to make soy milk, which is then transformed into tofu. Credit: Maggie Hiufu Wong/Dinogo