I Discovered That Skiing in Italy Was More Budget-Friendly Than in the U.S. — Here’s My Method

As the first chilly winds of November blew, I realized I hadn’t yet arranged our annual family ski trip. I was reluctant to spend hundreds on lift tickets in the Rockies, and available accommodations were quickly vanishing.

On a spontaneous decision, I checked for options in Italy’s Dolomites. The Dolomiti Superski pass, valid at 15 resorts, was only $78 a day — and flights to Milan were unexpectedly affordable as well. I booked our trip that very night.

A month later, my wife and I sipped Spritzes on a clear afternoon at Val di Fassa while our two children practiced on the beginner slope. The charming town of Pozza di Fassa, situated at the resort's base, offered all we needed, including a snug apartment (many available at fassa.com), ski rentals conveniently located near the gondola, and a fantastic pizzeria, Al Ponte.

The mountain provided a variety of slopes catering to both challenging and beginner skill levels for our family. Our six-year-old son confidently tackled black-diamond runs, while our four-year-old daughter needed lessons from someone other than me. This was easily arranged at our next destination, Kronplatz, a resort about three hours' drive from Val di Fassa. With an international clientele, group lessons are frequently available in English for just $71 a day. Skiing alongside new friends helped our daughter gain the confidence to conquer longer runs.

Midway through our trip, we were skiing together as a family, which opened up new possibilities and simplified the logistics of managing the kids. We’d hit the slopes hard in the morning, then break for lunch at AlpiNN, a restaurant with tables along glass walls that seemed to hover above the valley, where children were just as welcome as ski boots. We indulged in rich risotto and dumplings filled with speck, the unique Italian smoked ham, before heading back out for a few more runs.

We concluded our adventure with a two-night stay at Marmolada, the highest peak in the Dolomites. The seemingly endless groomed runs from the summit aren’t ideal for beginners, but a gentle slope near the base, equipped with both a T-bar and a magic carpet, kept our daughter happily entertained all day. While Marmolada’s impressive terrain may not be the first choice for families with young children, it turned out to be the perfect grand finale for us — highlighted by a wonderful last dinner at Baita Dovich, a boutique hotel and restaurant known for its unforgettable prawn carpaccio and avocado sorbet.

On our final morning, we had just enough time for a quick farewell lap on Marmolada before hitting the road. On our way back to Milan, we stopped in Trento, where we enjoyed a lunch of mezzalune al pesto at a charming sidewalk café. Despite it being March, we basked in the 70-degree sunshine wearing short sleeves.

We had the opportunity to ski some of the finest slopes in the world and dine at restaurants that outshined many we’ve experienced in the Rockies, all for considerably less than a last-minute trip closer to home would have cost. A spontaneous decision led us to Italy, but we’ve spent the last few months carefully planning our return.

This article first appeared in the November 2023 issue of Dinogo under the title "The Sweet Spot."