I Explored the Hidden 'Vanilla Island' — and Discovered Vibrant Sunsets, Friendly Sharks, Overwater Bungalows, and Dining in Tree Houses

I wasn't meant to be in Bora Bora. My destination was nearly a thousand miles to the northwest, in another French Polynesian archipelago. I was supposed to be aboard the hybrid cargo-cruise ship Aranui 5, cruising around the isolated Marquesas Islands. However, upon arriving in Tahiti, I tested positive for COVID-19 and spent a week in quarantine, missing the Aranui's voyage while my friend Bailey—whom I had enticed away from reality with the lure of a tropical cruise—enjoyed the nearby island of Mo'orea. 

Yet, sometimes unfortunate events turn into fortunate ones. After my quarantine ended, Bailey and I found ourselves with an unexpected week before the ship's next departure. We decided to take off from Papeete on one of Air Tahiti’s twin-propeller island hoppers, gliding over cumulus clouds above a choppy sea, our hearts racing as Bora Bora’s iconic green mountain, Mt. Otemanu, came into view below us.

At Pearl Resorts’ newly renovated 108-room property Le Bora Bora, wooden walkways lined with thatched overwater bungalows meander like fern fronds through the aquamarine shallows. Situated on Bora Bora’s barrier reef, our bungalow’s deck floated above warm, clear waters, offering a view across the lagoon to Mt. Otemanu. Some twist of time and geology has shaped Otemanu into a silhouette so stunning that it feels as though it carries a message; if you gaze long enough, it seems to communicate something profound. We witnessed the sun rising behind it and later, during an evening cruise, a full moon ascending over the peak. On rainy days, it would disappear and reemerge in the mist, its imposing form dark and foreboding amidst flashes of lightning. Most days, we admired it under bright, clear tropical sun while lounging on our deck, occasionally dipping into the water for a snorkel in the resort’s coral garden.

Le Bora Bora features a lovely pool we never used, three restaurants, and a delightful spa — plus opportunities to kayak on the lagoon, paddleboard, and enjoy a Tahitian dance performance. Pearl Resorts is the world’s only Polynesian-owned hotel collection, with nearly all its staff being Polynesian, many commuting to work by boat. The bungalows and villas exude understated luxury, boasting spacious bathrooms and enjoyable complimentary drinks in the minibar. It’s all incredibly pleasant, but despite my admiration for Mt. Otemanu, my heart ultimately belonged to Taha’a, the Vanilla Island.

To reach Taha’a, you first fly to the nearby island of Raiatea. The two islands share a lagoon and are surrounded by a single barrier reef. From the terminal, you walk straight to a dock where the air is infused with the scent of vanilla, and a boat awaits to take you north to Taha’a and a small motu just offshore. Here, at another Pearl Resorts location, Le Taha’a, our bungalow had a delightful old-world charm, adorned with thatch and polished wood. Beyond our deck was pure tranquility: shimmering blue waters meeting a distant white line where the surf crashed against the reef. Later, I floated beneath a vibrant sunset, the only sound being the occasional splash of jumping fish. “We’re in the middle of the ocean,” Bailey and I marveled. You truly sense it on Taha’a, as the earth seems to bend away from you.

Le Taha’a’s restaurant is like a dreamlike treehouse from childhood, and my cocktail was served in a large brass pineapple—a more sophisticated fantasy. I enjoyed fish marinated in coconut milk and a local delicacy: korori, the muscle of a pearl oyster, enhanced with black truffle oil. It was pale and delectable, reminiscent of a firmer scallop. Le Taha’a also features a pool with a swim-up bar and a coral garden perfect for snorkeling. One breezy evening, we paddleboarded away from the beach around another motu. There, on the horizon, was our old friend Mt. Otemanu, both distant yet close at hand.

One morning, we hopped on the resort’s boat shuttle to explore Taha’a with Terainui Tours. Our guide, George Teihotaata, radiated joy at having spent his entire life in Taha’a, except for a stint in the marines that took him across the South Pacific. “Here, we don’t have an airport. It’s peaceful. The lagoon is serene,” he said, gesturing toward the distant Mt. Otemanu. “In Bora Bora, everyone is rushing.” 

As we navigated the jungle roads in the back of a canopied truck, we explored a pearl farm, a rum distillery, and a vanilla plantation that has been owned by the same family for four generations. Did you know that, except for Mexico, where a native bee species handles the pollination, vanilla orchids must be pollinated by hand? It requires a toothpick, a gentle touch, and perfect timing. As rain clouds loomed, we boarded a small boat, and George guided us into the lagoon. From the helm, he blew a conch shell to signal our arrival to a gathering of blacktip reef sharks following us eagerly, hoping for the chicken giblets George tossed into the water. He mentioned that on his days off, he frequented this spot to fish and swim. The lagoon’s creatures recognized him. After the feeding, we jumped off the boat to snorkel among the inquisitive, harmless sharks. A stingray appeared and pressed its belly against George’s back in a friendly embrace. He told us he named her Sophie.

“This is the essence of life!” George exclaimed as we cruised away, headed for lunch on a small private motu he co-owned with his aunt. “It’s all here! Taha’a!”

We often view these warm, mid-ocean islands as havens or retreats from the everyday grind, but in reality, they are very much a part of life—both for us visitors and the locals who live here. Yet, there’s something truly enchanting about a lifestyle that allows you to pause, take a deep breath, and savor the air fragrant with vanilla.