Illyanna Maisonet Delves into the Heritage and Future of Puerto Rican American Cuisine in Her First Cookbook

Order Now → Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook, $30, Bookshop.org

Illyanna Maisonet, an award-winning food writer, presents Diasporican, the inaugural book documenting the culinary traditions of the 5.5 million Puerto Ricans in the U.S. Featuring over 90 recipes, this work blends memoir, history, and practical cooking advice, offering a clear-eyed view of Puerto Rican cuisine without unnecessary embellishments—perfect for those eager to start cooking.

Maisonet has always held Puerto Rican cuisine close to her heart, having spent her childhood in Sacramento cooking alongside her grandmother. Now residing in the Bay Area, she dedicates herself to showcasing this culinary tradition through her writing, including her column in the San Francisco Chronicle, titled Cocina Boricua, and numerous contributions to esteemed publications like Bon Appétit, Saveur, and the Los Angeles Times.

Her upcoming cookbook, set for release on Tuesday, October 18, represents a significant culmination of her life's work. Maisonet believes it has been long overdue, stating, “In the past fifty years, only about ten Puerto Rican cookbooks have been published, and none by authors not born on the island.” She emphasizes Puerto Rico's unique status as a U.S. territory, accessible by domestic flights and yet often overlooked in its culinary identity, with people knowing more about jerk chicken than mofongo.

In her efforts through Diasporican, Maisonet aims to address the fundamental question, “What is Puerto Rican food?” The island's complex colonial history has resulted in a rich tapestry of influences on its cuisine, drawn from Spanish settlers, enslaved Africans, and Indigenous Taino peoples. It embodies elements of all these cultures while remaining uniquely its own.

Diasporican delves into Puerto Rican cuisine as Maisonet experiences it—what she refers to as California Puerto Rican food, or “Cali-Rican” cuisine. These dishes hold a special place in her heart, shaped by her lifelong culinary journey. Among her cherished recipes in the book are Arroz con Gandules, which she regards as the island's national dish, Carne Guisada, an excellent introduction for those new to Puerto Rican cooking, and Mami’s Mushroom Chicken, a nostalgic favorite from her childhood. Diasporican masterfully weaves together historical insights and personal stories, with Maisonet’s candid storytelling providing both touching and humorous moments, such as in the techniques chapter where she boldly declares, “Washing Rice and Why the 2:1 Ratio Is Bullshit.”

Maisonet emphasizes that her book isn’t about defining “authentic” Puerto Rican cuisine—whatever that may entail. Instead, Diasporican celebrates California Puerto Rican food and honors the resilience of “the tribe of Ni De Aquí, Ni De Allá” (not from here, not from there), which includes individuals like herself.

“My fellow Puerto Rican cookbook authors and I are simply working with the resources we have to create our own pathways across the water,” Maisonet explained. “The next generation can use these paths to continue the narrative of Puerto Rican cuisine.”