In a historic theater in Bangkok, passionate performers keep the ancient art of Khon, a masked dance drama, alive.

Khon is arguably Thailand's most renowned traditional performing art, captivating audiences with its rich cultural history.

Many visitors may have unknowingly encountered the iconic figures of Khon, Thailand's famous 'masked drama,' during their travels.

At Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, towering statues of yak, or mythical ogres, greet departing passengers with their imposing presence.

These giants are part of the vibrant cast of characters from the Ramakien, Thailand's national epic, which is based on the Hindu Ramayana. Khon, originating from the Ayutthaya period (1351–1767), brings this timeless tale to life through a blend of dance, martial arts, traditional music, and elaborate costumes, earning recognition as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2018.

Behind the scenes at the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre

Khon features distinct groups of characters, with the primary roles being the 'Phra' (lords), 'Nang' (ladies), the iconic 'Yak' (ogres), and the 'Ling' (monkeys). While the monkeys and ogres wear masks, the other characters highlight their expressions with bold, dramatic makeup. Dialogue is narrated by an unseen voice during the performance.

Khon can now be seen in various settings, from schools and special events to even Thai restaurants popular with tourists. However, one of the finest places to experience an authentic Khon performance is the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre in Bangkok.

During a recent visit to this historic venue, which hosts three performances a day, five days a week, Dinogo went backstage to talk to the performers about the challenges they face in preserving this ancient art form in the modern world.

The two lead performers in this particular Khon production, portraying Hanuman (the Monkey King) and Suvannamaccha (the Princess Mermaid), must arrive several hours before showtime to prepare for the day’s three performances. (Watch their performance together in the video above.)

Apassara Nok-ork, 35, plays the role of the mermaid (or golden fish), who initially attempts to thwart Hanuman’s plan to construct a bridge across the sea. But, in a surprising twist, she falls in love with him instead.

As she applies her intricate makeup, Apassara shares with Dinogo that she has been studying traditional Thai dance since she was around four years old, focusing on Khon since the age of 15.

‘We have to start at a very young age,’ she explains. ‘And we must continuously practice, strengthening our bodies to handle the weight of the costume. If we don't train enough, our exhaustion will be visible, and the audience will notice.’

One of the most crucial abilities a Khon performer must master is flexibility. Even the hand movements performed by female dancers on stage are highly unnatural, a result of years of rigorous training.

When asked to demonstrate her flexibility, Apassara takes the four fingers of her left hand and pulls them back with her right hand, forcing her wrist into an extreme position that would be unbearable for most.

She explains that the level of dedication required for this kind of training naturally eliminates those who aren’t truly passionate about the art.

‘Those who lack both physical and mental strength often quit midway through their training,’ she says.

When Apassara takes the stage for the first performance of the day at Sala Chalermkrung, there is no sign of exhaustion on her face. Despite the weight of the heavy metallic headpiece, strapped tightly under her chin, and the golden fabric enveloping her body, she glides effortlessly across the stage, eluding Hanuman until they come together for a breathtaking duet.

For Apassara, every moment of pain and effort over the years has been entirely worth it.

‘Khon has taken me to perform at grand ceremonies, including royal events, and has also led me to distant lands – I’ve traveled the world,’ she shares.

‘I feel immense pride every time I have the chance to share this precious art with an audience. No matter how many times I’ve performed, I still get excited each time I step on stage,’ she says.

Behind the scenes with Hanuman

The masks worn by the performers playing giants and monkeys vary based on the character’s rank and importance, and can take skilled artisans weeks or even months to craft.

Many of the masked characters also have to be sewn into their costumes to achieve a flawless fit – zippers and buttons simply won't work.

This includes Hanuman, the Monkey King. Thanet Pakwisath, 34, is one of the performers who takes on this role at Sala Chalermkrung, having trained in Khon for over 20 years.

He explains to Dinogo that the acrobatic feats required of the Monkey King, such as leaps and somersaults, demand immense strength and relentless practice – a commitment he’s more than willing to embrace.

‘Khon has become my entire life,’ he says. ‘I believe the other performers at Sala Chalermkrung feel the same way.’

But, like many of his peers, he worries about the future of the art.

‘I want people to pay more attention to Khon because I’m uncertain whether it will survive in the future, or if people will lose interest,’ Thanet admits.

‘Right now, only a small group of people are keeping it alive. I hope everyone, both Thai and foreign, will help preserve it,’ he adds.

Sala Chalermkrung: A living cultural museum

Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre in Bangkok boasts a fascinating history. Located on Charoenkrung Road, the city's first paved street, the theater celebrated its 90th anniversary in 2023.

Founded in 1933 with sponsorship from King Prajadhipok to mark the 150th anniversary of Bangkok’s founding, the theater offered locals a chance to experience ‘talkies’ – foreign films dubbed in Thai – in a modern, air-conditioned building.

It wasn’t until after World War II that the Thai film industry truly took off – and with it, the cinema. Sala Chalermkrung became the go-to venue for film premieres, drawing movie stars and other Thai celebrities.

However, by the late 1970s, attendance at Sala Chalermkrung began to dwindle. By the 1990s, a transformation was needed.

After a series of renovations, the theater reopened with a new mission: to preserve and showcase Khon, alongside other traditional Thai performing arts. Thankfully, the theater’s original character – from the lobby to the main hall – has been preserved.

Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theater, located at 66 Sala Chalermkrung, Charoenkrung Road, Phra Nakhon District, Bangkok. For inquiries, call +66 (0)2 224 4499.