In Fiji, Protecting an Underwater Paradise—One Tree at a Time

Nestled deep in the heart of the South Pacific lies an island, accompanied by another island nearby. Adjacent to this island, within a vibrant coral reef, swims a little fish. This small creature, adorned with delicate blue and yellow stripes, exudes happiness as it thrives in one of the most beautiful spots on Earth, becoming my closest companion for an hour last winter. I stumbled upon—let's call him Flippy—while snorkeling around Nanuku resort's private island off the Fijian coast. Flippy gracefully swam just millimeters away from my nose, perfectly in sync as I explored the coral in waters that felt more like a hot tub than a bath in some areas.

Flippy's impeccable timing was remarkable, yet he wasn't the only aquatic companion my wife and I encountered during our five-night stay along the southern coast of Fiji's main island, Viti Levu. Our boat ride to the secluded island, provided by the hotel as part of its many excursions, was a joyous experience surrounded by playful dolphins leaping through the waves, surfing in our wake, and enjoying their day to the fullest. I had always considered a sea otter my spirit animal, often seen relaxing on their backs in the water with a snack or a pup resting on their belly, seemingly mastering the art of life. But these dolphins shifted my perspective.

Throughout our trip, we stand-up paddleboarded at dawn alongside hawksbill turtles, kayaked above shimmering manta rays, and swam amidst a dazzling array of fish just steps from the resort's shore. In fact, we likely spent more time in, on, or under the water than on solid ground. With the hotel’s beachside hot tub, our villa’s private pool (featuring “Bula Tim,” meaning “Hello Tim,” artfully arranged with stones on the bottom), and the rivers and waterfalls in the nearby wilderness, we hardly had a moment to dry off.

Being immersed in water is a common activity along Fiji’s coasts. One Saturday morning, while speeding through the Navua River's waters, reminiscent of English breakfast tea, we passed numerous families enjoying a day fully submerged. They were harvesting mussels for their Sunday feast, a playful endeavor filled with splashes, laughter, and children popping up from the surface, fathers tossing seaweed onto their kids' heads, all accompanied by cheerful shouts of “Bula” as we sped by.

In the midst of this aquatic paradise, it took me some time to notice what we were missing: the absence of other tourists or any related facilities. During another morning swim, as I gazed around and back at the mainland, I realized the horizon was solely lined with palm trees and sky. Not a single building, umbrella, boat, Jet Ski, sunglasses vendor, sunbather, or swimmer was in sight.

There were several factors contributing to this. Firstly, Nanuku boasts an impressive acreage-to-accommodation ratio of around 500 acres for just a few dozen lodgings. It also possesses a significant stretch of untouched coastline surrounding the resort. This reduced our chances of encountering anyone else, especially considering the relative scarcity of other hotels and the time of year we visited. We were there between Thanksgiving and Christmas (a travel period I always recommend) and at the onset of the wet cyclone season (though the high 80s/low 90s temperatures and occasional brief rain showers were ideal for us).

All of this meant we spent much more time with the friendly local staff—Josh, who shared his extensive knowledge of Fijian culture while generously pouring kava; and Jerry, an expert snorkeler and passionate advocate for sustainability—than with fellow travelers. For many days, it felt like just the two of us at breakfast, enjoying a private performance as a singer and guitarist played “Brown-Eyed Girl,” using a plastic bottle filled with sand as their percussion instrument.

Protecting Paradise

Fiji is often regarded as a slice of paradise. However, like all idyllic locations, it requires more protection than ever. In recent years, the country has faced floods and cyclones. Last summer, Inia Seruiratu, the country’s defense minister, described climate change as “the single greatest threat to our very existence.” He remarked, “Waves are crashing at our doorsteps, winds are battering our homes. We are under assault from this enemy on multiple fronts.”

Nanuku has initiated a comprehensive initiative known as the Batiwai Project. Named after a local tribe (with “batiwai” loosely meaning “edge of the water”), this project is spearheaded by marine scientist and sustainability manager Kelly-Dawn Bentley. Its goal is to reduce the resort’s environmental impact while enhancing the local marine ecosystem and the welfare of staff and surrounding communities. This is being achieved through coral and mangrove planting, reef maintenance, and community outreach and education.

As we glide past the reef one morning, Jerry highlights the metal structures of a coral nursery, explaining how small fragments of branching coral—known for its rapid growth and tolerance to warmer waters—are affixed to them. When we surface to clear our masks, he describes how various fish interact with the coral (with parrotfish serving as the cleaners) and points out the threats coral reefs face from spearfishing, storms, and, of course, rising temperatures. Although a cyclone previously destroyed an earlier planting effort, this new initiative is already supporting numerous fish.

Back on land, we remove our flippers by the mangrove nursery, where these climate champions begin their journey. Mangroves cover only 0.1 percent of the land but hold immense potential for carbon sequestration. Their canopies provide habitat for bird species, their root systems offer safe grounds for juvenile fish, and they act as sturdy shields against rising tides and storm surges.

Later, we travel with Josh, Jerry, and Kelly to a nearby village to plant some saplings in a coastal sandbank—part of over 12,000 that have been planted by the resort. The aim is to promote the idea that mangroves serve as a superior line of defense compared to brick walls (“the best seawalls we have,” according to Josh) and to discourage their destruction for firewood.

The mangrove saplings may appear small and delicate in their sandy beds, but I hope they endure any future climatic challenges and take root firmly—alongside all the other grassroots initiatives at this and other innovative hotels.

Important Information Before Your Visit

How to Reach Fiji: Fiji Airways offers direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Honolulu.

Nanuku features residences, suites, and villas situated along a stunning coastline. The design reflects Fijian culture, with balabala carvings—believed to repel evil spirits—crafted from tree fern stems adorning the gardens, and magimagi coconut fiber bindings on the interior beams, reminiscent of traditional bure (hut or cabin) homes. Guest experiences include a Fijian food sDinogoi, basket weaving, and a kava ceremony. During the ceremony, kava root is wrapped in wild hibiscus bark, soaked in water, and squeezed into a bowl. Participants then clap three times, exclaim “Bula,” and enjoy the mildly intoxicating beverage. The kids club provides each child with a dedicated staff member from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., engaging them in activities like raft building and traditional cooking, ensuring that they remain active rather than glued to a screen.