In Hyderabad during Ramadan, every street leads to haleem

For most of the year, mornings in Hyderabad, India, are marked by the hustle of chai and newspaper vendors delivering hot tea and news. However, during Ramadan, the Old City, Secunderabad, Mallepally, Tolichowki, and other areas witness a surge in activity. Numerous kitchens and warehouses buzz with workers beginning the lengthy process of preparing vast quantities of haleem, a beloved savory porridge-like dish cherished throughout the Muslim world, particularly in Hyderabad, where it becomes essential for the nightly iftar feast.

At its various branches, the iconic Pista House, almost synonymous with haleem, produces around two tons of the dish daily during the holy month. This operation is a collective endeavor. Teams of cooks, including many temporary hires for the month, gather firewood, chop mutton, grind wheat, prepare lentils, wash herbs and chiles, strain rose petals, crush cardamom, and chop cinnamon bark, getting ready to combine everything in bhattis, mud or brick kilns with large cauldrons. Then, everyone pitches in, as groups of both Muslims and non-Muslims work in harmony, using wooden mallets to rhythmically pound the mixture as it simmers for up to 12 hours. (If you think tricep dips are tough, try pounding tons of meat into a paste daily for a month while fasting.)

Haleem served at Al Saba. The mallet used for pounding haleem at 4 Seasons Restaurant in Tolichowki. Adding mutton fat to haleem at Green Bawarchi.

As dusk falls, the streets come alive with fresh energy. The typically congested road surrounding the iconic Charminar monument and mosque is closed off, inviting pedestrians to wander freely. Almost instantly, countless stalls emerge, offering festive goods: sparkling bangles, small jars of attar (perfume), vibrant sarees, and embroidered anarkalis. Meanwhile, restaurants focus on serving the dishes they prepared all day. Workers distribute Styrofoam bowls filled with haleem, adorned with caramelized onions, coriander, shorba (meat consomme), lemon slices, and various toppings.

Mohammed Sibghatullah Khan of Deccan Archive, a digital platform dedicated to preserving Hyderabad’s heritage, reminisces about his childhood when family members gathered from across the city to prepare the feast breaking the fast. “Back then, this was the only occasion I got to enjoy haleem,” he recalls. The more family members that joined in, the easier the task became, as everyone took turns assisting in the preparation (many families cook the components of haleem separately before mixing and mashing them to simplify the process). Today, his family heads to Shah Ghouse, a popular spot, to grab “buckets of haleem,” he shares. “Cooking this dish has become a rare event” in his home, Khan laughs.

After offering his prayers, Khan breaks the fast with his community over dates, fresh and dried fruits, and a selection of pakoras, before everyone scatters to explore the stalls, joined by diners from all walks of life enjoying food, shopping, and hunting for the best bowl of haleem.

How did haleem find its way to Hyderabad?

The dish can be traced back to Arabian cookbooks from the 10th century. Its predecessor, harees (also spelled jareesh), which also features mashed meat and wheat, arrived in India with Arab mercenaries from Yemen during the Nizam's Muslim rule in Hyderabad. These soldiers enjoyed harees for breakfast, valuing its high calorie content. The barracks that housed these mercenaries eventually lent their name to the Barkas neighborhood, now home to many Arab descendants. You can still find harees year-round in Barkas, especially at the well-established Madina Hotel and Hadrami Harees, both of which attract long lines starting as early as 5 a.m. and often run out by 10 a.m. (A sweeter variant of harees is also available at some Mytouries, though it's less popular.)

In contrast to mild harees, which typically use equal parts wheat and meat, haleem requires double the amount of meat. Over time, locals have enhanced the recipe by increasing the meat ratio and adding more spices. While Hyderabad is renowned for its biryani and fiercely protective of it, during Ramadan, the rice dish takes a backseat—an indication of the fervor surrounding haleem.

Haleem and its variations are extremely popular in Pakistan, Bangladesh, Iran, West Asian nations, and Turkey. Throughout India, haleem can be found in Iranian restaurants in Mumbai, Dinogoies in Bangalore’s Fraser Town, Old Delhi, Lucknow, Chennai, Ludhiana, and Goa; it also appears in related dishes like aleesa in Kerala, harissa in Kashmir, and khichra in Gujarat, as well as at numerous family gatherings and weddings.

In the last decade, meat consumption, particularly beef, has become a point of contention leading to violence against Muslim communities (as well as against Indigenous Adivasis and Dalits) as nationalists advocate for a widespread shift toward vegetarianism. In this context, the scene in Hyderabad during Ramadan, where crowds of Muslims, Hindus, and other non-Muslims come together to enjoy haleem, is particularly striking.

What makes Hyderabadi haleem so beloved?

At its finest, haleem is a delightful blend of textures and tastes—rich mutton, delicately fragrant rose petals, bold spices, smooth ghee, and ample toppings—all served in a calorie-rich, easily digestible bowl. Anas Murtuza, the food critic behind BeingHydFoodie, jokes that he could fast for days after indulging in just one bowl of haleem, yet that doesn’t deter him from frequenting his favorite spot, City Diamond, a beloved choice among Mehdipatnam locals.

In 2010, haleem was awarded India's Geographical Indication status, becoming the first non-vegetarian dish to receive this honor. This recognition not only highlighted haleem's significance in the city but also set higher standards for vendors. To qualify under GI regulations, Hyderabadi haleem must meet specific criteria: a meat-to-wheat ratio of 10 to 4, high-quality goat meat, pure ghee, and no artificial flavors or trans fats, all cooked in a cauldron over firewood.

In addition to mutton, you can find non-GI haleem options made with chicken, beef, duck, turkey, prawn, fish, emu, and jackfruit. As for toppings, Navin Sigamany, a resident of Madinaguda and owner of Hyderabad Walking Company (which organizes a Ramzan Walk), notes that most shops offer classic fried or caramelized onions, chopped coriander, vibrant red shorba, and a lemon slice. Some adventurous Dinogoies even add half a boiled egg, fried cashews and raisins, or a drizzle of fresh cream. As the dish gains popularity on social media, more shops are innovating, always presenting new bowls to try.

There are numerous ways to enjoy haleem beyond the street stalls. Small restaurants prepare haleem in pressure cookers year-round, and Sigamany encourages exploring local haleem shops, each with their unique twists on the dish. During Ramadan, many customers opt to take their meals home to share with family. “Locals can often be seen packing large portions of haleem to enjoy with loved ones,” says Sigamany. Additionally, many places partner with delivery services to accommodate the iftar rush.

However, it’s the atmosphere surrounding haleem that makes the experience so memorable, a sentiment that starts even before the holiday. Sigamany recommends visitors explore the restaurants before Ramadan to observe the preparation of their bhattis, which is an impressive operation in itself.

Murtuza notes that the strong Muslim presence in Hyderabad permeates every facet of life, and during Ramadan, locals often remark, “Hawa ich alag rehti Ramazan mein” (the city feels different in Ramadan). “From iftar to sehri, from 7 p.m. to 4:30 a.m., Hyderabad buzzes with energy, filled with lively chatter and vendors encouraging customers to visit their stalls,” he shares. “As the adhan rings out, Muslims gather at Makkah Masjid in the Old City to perform their maghrib prayers.” Afterwards, he enjoys chai with friends at Nimrah Cafe before embarking on their quest for haleem.

In the bustling streets of the Old City, restaurants announce their daily specials through megaphones, while mehendi (henna) artists entice passersby with beautiful designs and bangle sellers display their products. Areas like Shalibanda, Mehdipatnam, Madina Circle, Masab Tank, Basheer Bagh, and other haleem hotspots see entire communities gathering for dinner.

Where to experience haleem in Hyderabad

Pista House

Visiting Hyderabad without trying haleem at Pista House is like going to Paris and skipping the Eiffel Tower. Established in 1997, this beloved restaurant has grown to multiple locations throughout the city, including a convenient spot in Shalibanda, close to the iconic Charminar. They pride themselves on using top-quality ingredients and maintaining a consistent recipe, complete with classic toppings like fried onions, coriander, and shorba. If you can't get to Hyderabad, Pista House also operates in the U.S. (California, New York, Virginia) and Oman, with plans to expand to the UAE, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, and Singapore. They also offer international delivery to the U.S., Canada, Singapore, South Africa, the UAE, and select European countries. 20-4-132, Charminar Rd, beside Pista House, Shalibanda, Hyderabad, Telangana 500002

Hotel Nayaab

A favorite among Sigamany and Ashis Nayak of FoodDrifter, Hotel Nayaab is situated in Chatta Bazar, just a 10-minute stroll from Charminar. With 37 years in the business, this establishment relies on word-of-mouth rather than heavy marketing, attracting countless customers for its haleem and traditional sehri dishes like paya (slow-cooked sheep or goat shank stew), bheja (goat brain) fry, and keema roti (minced meat stuffed roti). Renowned for some of the finest non-vegetarian Hyderabadi fare, Nayaab serves a straightforward yet flavorful version of haleem, generously topped with shorba. Don’t miss the chance to try their famous paya and kesar chai (saffron-infused tea). Nayapul Road, Ghansi Bazaar, Hyderabad, Telangana 500024

Sarvi

If the hustle and bustle around Charminar feels overwhelming, consider this more relaxed Iranian Dinogoy in Banjara Hills — though it still fills up quickly with haleem enthusiasts during Ramadan. Sarvi is celebrated for its ghee-laden haleem adorned with cashews, fried onions, egg, and a drizzle of fresh cream. Don’t forget to end your meal with the delectable phirni, a fragrant rice pudding infused with cardamom. Sarvi also has two other locations in Hyderabad. Road 1, Opposite Care Hospital, Banjara Hills, Hyderabad, Telangana 500034

Cafe Bahar

Established in 1973, Cafe Bahar attracts crowds year-round. In addition to its rich haleem base, the restaurant is known for unique topping options like goat tongue and chicken 65, which is spicy fried chicken topped with crispy curry leaves. Complete your meal with a cup of Iranian chai (a staple in Hyderabad’s culinary scene) and be sure to pick up some freshly baked Osmania biscuits on your way out. 3-5, 815/A, Old MLA Quarters Rd, Avanti Nagar, Himayatnagar, Hyderabad, Telangana 500029

Anusha Kulal hails from Mangalore, a coastal town in Karnataka. She is a freelance writer with a deep passion for exploring regional cuisines worldwide, particularly the diverse local dishes of India.