Indulge in Banh Mi in Ho Chi Minh City

If you’ve enjoyed banh mi, Vietnam’s iconic sandwich, outside its borders, you likely have a sense of what awaits you in Ho Chi Minh City. Many of the world's Vietnamese expatriates come from the southern region, including the city once called Saigon, bringing their culinary heritage along with them.

When it comes to banh mi, this translates to impressively large sandwiches packed with an abundance of ingredients. However, it’s not just about the size. A perfect HCMC-style banh mi harmonizes an array of meats, fresh herbs, and sauces — even the bread, which may seem ordinary, blends beautifully into a delightful whole, creating one of the best sandwiches on the planet.

What defines a Ho Chi Minh City-style banh mi?

The French introduced wheat-based, oven-baked bread to Vietnam during their early visits in the 17th century, well before colonization in the 19th century. However, as Andrea Nguyen, author of The Banh Mi Handbook, notes, the term 'banh mi' only came into use in 1945.

The banh mi style that originated in Hanoi was rather simplistic, closely tied to its French influences, featuring bread, a small portion of protein, and minimal seasonings. When this sandwich reached HCMC about 60 years ago, the city transformed it into something more extravagant. “People in HCMC enjoy abundance, so their sandwiches are typically larger and more loaded than elsewhere,” Nguyen explains. Today, banh mi is perhaps more cherished and widespread in HCMC than in any other part of Vietnam.

HCMC-style banh mi are often gigantic, featuring up to eight different meats, a spread of pâté, a generous mix of crunchy pickled veggies, fresh herbs, and abundant mayonnaise, soy sauce, black pepper, and sometimes even chile sauce, all stuffed into a crispy, shell-like roll that bulges like Popeye's muscles. A truly exceptional HCMC-style banh mi balances crunch from the bread and vegetables with a hearty portion of meat, while the condiments enhance rather than overpower the flavors.

The bread

“Traditional Hanoi-style banh mi bread is chewy and dense, resembling a French baguette,” notes Peter Cuong Franklin, the Vietnamese American chef-owner of Anan and Nhau Nhau in HCMC. However, in Ho Chi Minh City, this loaf has seen considerable alterations. “In Saigon, it’s all about efficiency and speed,” Franklin explains. “[Bakers] must produce it quickly.” This results in loaves made with high water content, leavening agents, and stabilizers, baked at high temperatures with little variation across bakers or vendors.

The outcome is the quintessential HCMC-style banh mi roll, an impressively large loaf featuring three slits for optimal expansion during baking, a delicate crust that crumbles with each bite, and a light, airy interior.

While some baking enthusiasts might criticize banh mi bread, former Pok Pok chef-owner Andy Ricker, who has dedicated years to perfecting the ideal roll, states, “This light loaf serves its purpose perfectly: it holds the fillings without overshadowing the flavors, providing minimal resistance to your bite, akin to a slightly crispy cloud.”

The fillings

Cuong Franklin explains that in northern Vietnam, banh mi is typically served at charcuterie shops specializing in select meats, resulting in more minimalist sandwiches. He notes, “In Ho Chi Minh City, it’s quite the opposite.” Instead of charcuterie sellers providing bread, “banh mi are found at bakeries that source their charcuterie from elsewhere.”

Instead of a limited selection of French-style meats, vendors in HCMC offer an extensive array of long-lasting, quick-serve thịt nguội, or Vietnamese cold cuts. A bánh mì thịt nguội, often shortened to bánh mì thịt, can feature pork liver pate, chả lụa/giò lụa (steamed sausage, with or without pepper), giò thủ (headcheese), and various other meats.

“Preparing quality Vietnamese charcuterie, from pate to headcheese, requires considerable effort,” Nguyen states, adding that her ideal banh mi must include these elements. “I want to evaluate the skill of the banh mi maker.”

Popular meat options include xíu mại (pork meatballs, served plain in a tomato sauce or broth with bread), thịt nướng (grilled pork patties or skewers), and gà xé (chicken floss). You might also find xá xíu (Chinese-style roasted pork), chà bông (pork floss), cá mòi (sardines), chả cá (deep-fried fish cake), and bì (shredded pork skin). If the choices overwhelm you, go for đặc biệt, the “special,” which usually means more meat. “I often order bánh mì đặc biệt in Ho Chi Minh City for a fully loaded banh mi,” Nguyen shares. “It’s the complete package, and that’s what I’m here for!”

In addition to proteins, expect to find pickled carrots or daikon, along with fresh veggies like cucumber, onion, chili, green onions, and cilantro. Accompaniments may include homemade mayonnaise, pepper, Maggi seasoning, soy sauce, and occasionally, a sweet chili sauce in HCMC.

Often neglected in the banh mi scene are those that feature eggs. One of the simplest is bánh mì ốp la, a crispy, fluffy roll from Ho Chi Minh City served with fried eggs, drizzled with Maggi, and complemented by pickles and perhaps a sprinkle of cilantro.

Even more delightful is bánh mì chảo, a sort of deconstructed sandwich that Nguyen likens to the Denny’s Grand Slam of banh mi. This dish features eggs and some type of protein (like a slice of peppery steamed sausage, a dab of pate, or even a hot dog) cooked in a small skillet, accompanied by garnishes and sides that can include mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, and bread on the side.

Top spots to enjoy banh mi in Ho Chi Minh City

In Ho Chi Minh City, banh mi is predominantly a takeout item. “Banh mi is like an energy bar! You can carry it while walking, or bring it back to the office,” says Cuong Franklin. Except for places offering bánh mì chảo, the deconstructed egg variant, seating is rare.

Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa

Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa is arguably the most renowned banh mi shop in the city, known for its generous portions. Their signature sandwich is huge, piled high with six varieties of Vietnamese cold cuts, along with pate, chicken floss, and the usual fresh veggies, herbs, and seasonings. It’s priced about 50% higher than the average banh mi. Expect to wait in line behind many tourists and delivery riders, but the experience is worth it for a sandwich that serves as a complete meal.26 Lê Thị Riêng, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Bánh Mì Chảo

While there are more renowned spots for bánh mì chảo, this cheerful stall in District 1 offers a convenient place to savor this distinct dish. Opt for the everything version, which includes a small skillet with two fried eggs, a meatball, and a scoop of pate. Mayo, pickled veggies, and bread are served on the side, and don’t forget to add a few drops of Maggi sauce—an essential complement to egg dishes in Southeast Asia.6 Đặng Trần Côn, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

A Tùng

Tucked away in a quiet courtyard just off a bustling street in central Ho Chi Minh City, this vendor offers one of the most distinctive versions around. Known as bánh mì bò nướng bơ Campuchia, or 'Cambodian-style grilled beef banh mi,' the sandwich features plump toasted rolls generously coated with a honey butter-like spread, accompanied by slender skewers of spiced grilled beef and crunchy green papaya strips. You can build your own sandwich or enjoy the components separately; for those who appreciate sweet flavors, it’s an enjoyable experience.171 Cống Quỳnh, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Bánh Mì Hồng Hoa

Hồng Hoa serves one of the city’s finest all-around bánh mì. The bánh mì thịt nguội, labeled as “extra mixed meats” on the helpful English menu, includes a variety of ingredients: a smear of peppery pate, crunchy, mildly sweet papaya pickles, Chinese-style roasted pork, Vietnamese steamed sausage, salty chicken shreds, and more. At the other end of the spectrum, the bánh mì ốp la, featuring a fried egg, is simple yet delectable. While the establishment primarily offers takeout, a few plastic chairs are available. Hồng Hoa also operates as a bakery, ensuring the bread is always fresh.54 Nguyễn Văn Tráng, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Nhau Nhau

Cuong Franklin is renowned for his $100 foie gras and caviar bánh mì at Anan, but for a more affordable option, venture upstairs to Nhau Nhau. Here, you can savor one of the chef’s mini bánh mì for under a tenth of that price. Served on smaller, chewier Hanoi-style baguettes specially sourced by Cuong Franklin, the wagyu version is incredibly tender, while the foie gras offers a rich indulgence.89 Tôn Thất Đạm, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Quán Bánh Mì Heo Quay Phúc Hải

This innovative take on traditional bánh mì centers around Chinese-style roasted pork belly. A generous piece of crispy, fatty heo quay, as it’s called in Vietnamese, is chopped and drizzled with a chile-infused brown sauce and a dash of soy, then topped with cucumber slices and plenty of cilantro. It’s relatively light and simple for HCMC, yet absolutely delicious. Available for takeout only.3 Nguyễn Thượng Hiền, District 5, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Austin Bush is an American writer and photographer currently residing in Lisbon, Portugal. He previously spent over 20 years in Bangkok, Thailand, where he contributed to nearly every major food and travel publication, as well as to more than 30 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. In 2018, he authored and photographed the James Beard Award finalist, The Food of Northern Thailand.