Ipoh: A rising cultural and culinary hotspot in Malaysia’s tourism scene

Following the tin industry decline of the 1980s, Ipoh became known more as a quiet retirement town or merely a stopover en route to Penang.

Today, the city is experiencing a gentle renaissance, fueled by a new wave of hotels, cafes, museums, and vibrant street art in its historic heart.

"In the past, there was no central place where people could come together," explains Julie Song of Burps & Giggles, a cafe that has helped shape the city’s evolving identity.

"Now, Old Town has become the go-to destination for visitors."

Despite being the capital of Malaysia’s Perak state, Ipoh has long had the allure of Penang: a rich mix of architectural, cultural, and culinary traditions, all without the overwhelming crowds—though weekends can tell a different story.

That’s not all—surrounded by towering Paleozoic limestone formations, Ipoh also serves as a gateway to the region’s stunning caves and rejuvenating hot springs.

Here are a few recommendations for things to do, as well as top picks for dining and hotels in Ipoh.

WHAT TO SEE

Kong Heng Square

A few years ago, landscape architect Ng Seksan and his team revitalized this block, infusing Old Town with fresh energy.

"We wanted to retain the old businesses, like the Kong Heng kopitiam and the Indian barber," Ng explains.

Today, these traditional spots coexist with trendy cafes, boutique hotels, and vibrant fashion and craft stalls.

"It’s the greenest urban block in Ipoh," says Law Siak Hong from the Perak Heritage Society.

Trees grow freely over and within buildings, while vines cascade down rooftops and weathered walls.

Yasmin at Kong Heng Museum (open on weekends) is dedicated to the films of the late Malaysian director Yasmin Ahmad, celebrated for her poignant explorations of race and culture.

Known as "Concubine Lane," this colorful street earned its name because the late tin tycoon Yau Tet Shin is said to have kept his second wife here.

A living architectural museum

Many colonial-era buildings, showcasing styles ranging from Gothic to Modern, continue to stand proudly today.

Among the most prominent are the century-old Railway Station, designed in the British Raj style, and the elegant Town Hall just across the street.

For a glimpse of charming shophouses, take a stroll through Old Town.

Don’t miss the Sinhalese Bar, established in 1931, with its signature cowboy-style swing doors—a perfect spot to enjoy a beer before continuing your journey.

You’ll also find murals by Ernest Zacharevic, the Lithuanian artist who helped popularize street art in Malaysian cities, as well as works by local talents like Eric Lai.

Trail maps are available at the Ipoh tourism office for visitors to explore the area.

"The Vale of Tin and Sin"

Ipoh sits at the heart of Kinta Valley, once the world’s most productive tin mining region.

It attracted a diverse mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian, and European fortune hunters, transforming from a small river village into one of the wealthiest towns in British Malaya.

To dive into the history of tin mining and explore the lives of miners off-duty, visitors can book a tour at Han Chin Pet Soo.

The museum was once the Hakka Tin Miners’ Club, established in 1893. In its early days, it was a male-only space for socializing, opium smoking, and gambling—though exceptions were occasionally made for "dancing girls."

Scattered around Kinta Valley are former tin-mining towns and various historical sites waiting to be explored.

A guided tour might take you through Papan, Batu Gajah, Gopeng, the Tanjung Tualang tin dredge, and the iconic Kellie’s Castle.

K. Rajasegaran (+60 12 524 2357) and V. Kuppusamy (+60 12 508 6429) offer customized tours of Ipoh and Perak.

Law Siak Hong (+60 17 506 1875) from the Perak Heritage Society occasionally leads guided tours.

Masters of the Craft

Tan Khar Mee (Kin Teck, 4 Tingkat Pasar; +60 12 455 3242), 73, has been creating lion dance heads for over four decades.

He also contributed to the set of the 1999 film “Anna and the King” and is open to sharing his skills with those interested in learning the craft.

Teh Wing Liang (Zhong Shen Trading, 59 Jalan Bunga Saroja, Pasir Pinji; +60 12 452 3287), 42, has been crafting lion heads since he was 15, and he describes his style as more contemporary.

"I paint each one uniquely, making it up as I go along," he explains.

To watch how Ipoh’s renowned heong peng biscuits are baked—using concrete, well-shaped ovens powered by coconut husks—visit the bakery at 362 Jalan Gunung Rapat in the morning.

Yao Cai Yu at the Central Market (Jalan Dato’ Onn Jaafar) creates wooden clogs, while Lau Chee Wah (Lau Hooi Kee, 15 Lorong Bijih Timah) specializes in traditional bamboo blinds.

John Lee of Ipoh Secrets offers customized tours that bridge the language gap for visitors.

Explore the majestic limestone formations up close

When the Chinese settlers arrived in Kinta Valley, they constructed temples within the limestone caves.

Perak Tong, established in the 1920s, boasts one of the most stunning interiors, with vibrant murals depicting deities. Visitors can also reach a hilltop pavilion with panoramic views of the city, but be prepared to climb over 400 steps to get there.

Sam Poh Tong, thought to have been discovered by a monk in the 1890s, is a bit worn down but still retains a captivating, untamed charm. The temple features crumbling terraces, a tortoise pond, and a vibrant red temple at the back.

Tambun Cave is home to prehistoric paintings depicting humans, animals, and abstract shapes, all etched into its cliff walls.

The Gua Tambun Heritage Awareness Project offers guided tours on the first Saturday of every month.

WHERE TO EAT

This list highlights Ipoh’s unique culinary offerings, focusing on local specialties rather than typical Malaysian fare.

For Western cuisine, head to Kong Heng Square or explore the bars and pubs lining Jalan Lau Ek Ching.

Most hawkers begin serving in the early morning and close by lunchtime, or whenever their supplies run out.

Malaysians typically enjoy hearty breakfasts, so it's best to arrive early. Some hawkers also take unscheduled days off.

White coffee and toast

Let’s start with a quick overview of the different varieties of white coffee.

"Pak kopi" is served with a mix of condensed and evaporated milk, while "Pak kopi C" uses evaporated milk and sugar.

"C kosong" is made with just evaporated milk and no sugar, while "O" has sugar but no milk. Add "peng" to the name if you prefer it iced.

The coffee beans are roasted with margarine instead of sugar, giving the brew a lighter color.

For a light breakfast, this coffee is often paired with toasted bread spread with margarine, served with half-boiled eggs on the side.

Sin Yoong Loong (15A Jalan Bandar Timah/Leech St), established in the 1930s, is one of the best spots to enjoy this local delicacy.

Chang Jiang (7 Jalan Windsor), a contemporary cafe with roots in a 1970s kopitiam, serves up excellent white coffee.

Nga choy kay

Regarded as Ipoh’s signature dish, nga choy kay translates to "beansprout chicken" but typically refers to three components: kway teow (flat rice noodles) soup, poached chicken, and peppery beansprouts.

You can order it as a single serving, but the dishes will still be presented separately.

Ipoh’s bean sprouts are said to be crunchier and juicier, a result of the unique quality of the water, which is believed to be influenced by the surrounding limestone hills.

Lou Wong (Jalan Bandar Timah/Leech Street) is a favorite among tourists, but the true local gem is Cowan Street Ayam Tauge & Koitiau (44 Jalan Raja Ekram; +60 12 520 3322), which is also known for its delicious braised chicken feet.

While it’s known for having unpredictable hours, Thursday to Sunday evenings are usually a reliable time to visit.

Kai see hor fun

Kai see hor fun is another variation of kway teow soup, but with a twist—prawns are added to the mix. The broth has a rich orange hue, created by simmering chicken bones with prawn shells.

Everything is served in a single bowl, topped with poached chicken, prawns, beansprouts, and spring onions.

Thean Chun’s version (73 Jalan Bandar Timah/Leech Street) is widely considered one of the best.

Restoran Moon De Moon (148 Hala Wah Keong, Simee), closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, is another favorite spot for kai see hor fun and also serves a delicious curry mee, a spicy noodle dish.

Curry mee

Xin Quan Fang (174 Jalan Sultan Iskandar) is a popular spot for Ipoh-style curry mee, which is known for its lighter milk base. They also offer a dry curry version.

"My grandfather’s recipe includes Indian spices, such as star anise," says owner Kok Wai Bing.

We recommend pairing the curry mee soup with your preferred noodles, accompanied by a mixed bowl of roast and barbecue pork, prawns, chicken, and beansprouts.

Be sure to try their signature gravy, a rich blend of curry oil, garlic, pork lard, and lime.

Hakka mee

Paris Restaurant (164 Jalan Sultan Iskandar/Hugh Low Street) is now run by its third generation of chefs.

The restaurant is known for its springy flat egg noodles, topped with crunchy bean sprouts and minced meat that's been caramelized in soy and fish sauce, served with a side of chili and garlic-ginger sauce.

You can also opt for a bowl of soup with meatballs and fishballs to accompany your noodles.

On weekends, it's best to get there early, before 11 a.m., as they often sell out quickly.

"Nasi Ganja"

Despite the name, there's nothing suspicious about this rice dish—it's simply delicious.

The name has become synonymous with the Nasi Kandar Ayam Merah stall at Yong Suan kopitiam (2 Jalan Yang Kalsom), a local institution that has been around since the 1950s.

Order the 'biasa' (the usual) and you'll be served a plate of fragrant steamed rice with their signature ayam merah (crispy red fried chicken), okra, salted egg, cucumber, and a hearty serving of chili and curry sauce.

Sar kok liew

This is a savory deep-fried roll made from yam bean and fish paste, wrapped in a bean curd sheet.

This is Ipoh’s distinctive take on yong liew – vegetables stuffed with a fish or pork paste filling, often served boiled.

For a crispy version, head to Dai Shu Geok (“Big Tree Foot”) on Jalan King in Pasir Pinji, and pair it with a bowl of tangy assam laksa.

Alternatively, food columnist SeeFoon Chan-Koppen from Ipoh Echo recommends Kwong Hong (684 Jalan Besar Gunung Rapat): “It offers a wide variety of fresh greens, and the dipping sauce is absolutely delicious.”

Yu kong hor with boiled octopus

Tuck Kee (61 Jalan Yau Tet Shin) only operates in the evenings, so plan accordingly.

A must-try dish is the wat tan hor – flat rice noodles soaked in a rich egg gravy, served with slices of pork, prawns, vegetables, and crispy lard fritters. Or opt for the dry yu kong hor, topped with a raw egg to be stirred in.

Whichever version you choose, it wouldn’t be complete without the boiled octopus drenched in garlic oil and soy sauce.

Kaya puff

Sin Eng Heong (4 Jalan Mustapha Al-Bakry) is famous for its kaya puff, a delicious pastry filled with a coconut milk and egg jam. On weekends, expect a long line of eager customers outside the bakery.

Meanwhile, the founder’s son has opened his own spot, Sin Eng Hoe (50 Jalan Yau Tet Shin), just down the road. He promises to stick to the original recipe.

Tau fu fa

This sweet, silky dessert made from soybean curd is traditionally served hot, with a drizzle of ginger sugar syrup.

While Funny Mountain (49 Jalan Theatre) is a popular choice, Woong Kee (32-38A Jalan Ali Pitchay) is also a well-loved favorite for tau fu fa.

WHERE TO STAY

Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat

A perfect blend of luxury and nature, this retreat offers a tranquil escape surrounded by limestone hills, yet is only a 15-minute drive from the city.

Each villa comes with its own private plunge pool, filled with water from the natural hot springs, and guests can also enjoy four communal garden pods.

Even if you're not a guest, you can still access the retreat’s facilities for a fee.

The retreat offers various facilities, including a pool, a steam and sauna cave, and an air-conditioned cave perfect for relaxation. You can also dine in the cave cellar, which boasts a wide selection of wines.

A short walking trail provides direct access to the Lost World of Tambun theme park.

Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat, 1 Persiaran Lagun Sunway 3, Tambun; +60 5 210 7777

Bedrock Hotel

This new boutique hotel features a blend of contemporary Chinese and Western design elements.

'We offer the best beds and the finest rocks,' says Debbie Ng.

The beds are imported, and the family has a passion for collecting unique rocks. These treasures are showcased throughout the hotel, even in the guest rooms.

Each room is equipped with a Nespresso coffee machine and complimentary pods for your enjoyment.

Bedrock Hotel, 13 Jalan Che Tak, New Town; +60 5 241 3031

Sekeping Kong Heng

Part of Ng Seksan’s collection of Sekeping properties across Malaysia, this hotel offers a 'retreat' experience right in the heart of the city's hustle and bustle.

The main area sits above the Kong Heng kopitiam, in what was formerly a hostel frequented by Chinese opera troupes.

The building retains much of its original charm, blending exposed brick and reclaimed wood with industrial elements like wire bed frames and concrete wall panels, creating a stylish mix of natural and urban aesthetics.

In addition to the main building, there’s an annexe next door and rooms above the Container Hotel, along with a pool and a rooftop lounge area.

Sekeping Kong Heng, 75 Jalan Bandar Timah (Leech Street), Old Town; +60 12 227 2745

Sarang Paloh

Housed in a former Art Deco-style bank building dating back to the 1930s, this boutique guesthouse is a charming blend of history and modern comfort.

Named after birds found in Malaysia, each room at Sarang Paloh has its own unique theme, with 'sarang' meaning 'nest' in Malay.

The interiors feature a blend of wood furnishings and antique accents, combined with contemporary touches and modern conveniences.

All 11 rooms are equipped with air-conditioning and private en-suite bathrooms for added comfort.

There is a communal dining space bathed in natural light, alongside a tranquil courtyard located on the second floor.

Sarang Paloh, 16 Jalan Sultan Iskandar (Hugh Low Street), Old Town; +60 5 241 3926

27 Concubine Lane

This charming homestay, housed in a beautifully restored 1908 shophouse, is run by a Malaysian-British couple.

It preserves many of its original features, while other elements such as windows, floorboards, and latticework have been sourced from a salvage yard.

“It’s not the Hilton. People come here for the heritage,” says owner John Lomax.

The homestay offers three private double rooms with air conditioning, along with an open loft area featuring six beds. Bathrooms are shared.

Despite being nestled in the lively Concubine Lane, the homestay still feels like a tranquil retreat.

Located at 27 Concubine Lane, Old Town; contact +60 12 221 3202.