Is Italy’s Next Great Dining Spot at Roadside Rest Stops?

Gourmet cuisine that surpasses typical rest stop fare is set to debut on Italy’s autostrade (highways). This fall, Enilive, an Italian sustainable energy firm, has teamed up with renowned chef Niko Romito—known for his Michelin-starred restaurants—to launch the gourmet Alt Stazione del Gusto in Rome. Roughly translating to “taste station,” Alt is not just an electric vehicle charging station; it combines culinary expertise with a touch of cinematic charm, a concept truly befitting the bel paese.

Situated in Rome’s EUR district, just six miles south of the city center, this area showcases 1930s rationalist architecture, quite different from the baroque style most tourists associate with Rome. (Originally envisioned as a “new Rome” for the abandoned 1942 World’s Fair.) The retro 1950s drive-in diner aesthetic of Alt harmonizes beautifully with the bold lines of the stark ’30s architecture surrounding it. Meanwhile, Teslas, Taycans, Q8s, and Fiat 500s line the parking lot, equipped with Enilive charging stations—allowing their drivers to enjoy Romito’s legendary and award-winning bomba while they charge.

Why choose a bomba? Romito’s reimagining of the classic fried dough ball is nothing short of spectacular—in the best possible sense. An introspective chef who ponders the philosophy of food, Romito is dedicated to healthy eating. To perfect the bomba, he invested years in studying flour and yeast, experimenting with bread-making and frying techniques to create a healthier version, using extra-virgin olive oil and cocoa butter in place of lard. Filled with sweet cream and dusted with powdered sugar, Romito’s bombe (the plural of bomba) are light and sublime. Until recently, the only way to savor one was by visiting Reale, Romito’s three-Michelin-star restaurant in Castel di Sangro, Abruzzo, or one of his signature eateries in the Bulgari Hotels (located in Paris, Tokyo, Dubai, Rome, and Shanghai), or by waiting for a pop-up event. Now, Romito is bringing the bombe to the masses.

Alt takes dining to a whole new level. In addition to the sweet dough balls, the diner’s menu features pasta, toasts, savory sandwich versions of the bomba stuffed with tender pork and house-made mustard, and Romito’s renowned fried chicken. “I wanted to capture the essence of whole fried chicken, focusing primarily on steam cooking. This approach respects the ingredients, resulting in a light frying method that doesn’t involve any breading,” Romito shares in a phone interview.

Sustainability is a key aspect of Alt’s menu. Every element has been designed for efficiency. Alongside electric charging stations, the diner embraces an eco-friendly philosophy with the support of Enilive. Solar panels generate most of Alt’s energy, complemented by air and water filtration and recycling systems. In the kitchen, Romito adheres to standardized practices to maintain quality, including the bombe—they are made in Romito’s lab in Abruzzo, frozen, and then sent to Alt, where they are heated and filled upon customer request, ensuring they aren’t left sitting out all day.

“My aim is to provide something that is both simple and maintains high standards in flavor and nutrition,” Romito states.

Moreover, Alt’s team consists of students from the Accademia Niko Romito, the chef’s culinary school. Embracing a pay-it-forward philosophy, Romito’s crew will go on to train the next generation of Alt employees.

The new Alt Stazione del Gusto in Rome is now welcoming guests every day from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., and it will soon be accompanied by more Alt Stazione del Gusto locations across Italy’s autostrade, with plans to launch 100 restaurants in the next four years. New sites are set to begin opening in 2024, starting in major Italian cities—though specific locations have yet to be announced. For those seeking an Alt experience outside of Rome, two standalone Alt diners (without charging stations) can be found in Castel di Sangro, about 125 miles east of Rome, and in Montesilvano on Italy's eastern coast.