Is the 27-hour journey on the Silver Meteor train from Miami to NYC worth it?

It seems Americans don’t ride trains, or so I’ve been told by every American I encounter.

Most opt to fly or drive between states, deterred by costs, delays, and the poor condition of their rail systems. However, during my month-long Amtrak journey across the country in 2015, I found that Americans definitely do travel by train. There’s a vibrant mix of passengers with intriguing stories who frequently take to the rails—some fear flying, some use trains for religious purposes, others have lost their driving privileges, and many simply enjoy the leisurely views without a rush.

When I last checked, the long-distance Silver Meteor route was out of service, so I returned late last year to experience the 27-hour journey that departs Miami, Florida just after 8 AM and concludes at New York City’s Moynihan Train Hall, the newly opened expansion of Penn Station from 2021.

The overnight train makes stops at 31 stations, racing through Florida before heading into Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, DC, Maryland, Delaware, and Pennsylvania on its way to New York. Due to scheduling logistics, I boarded the train at the Orlando Station, a charming stucco building from the 1920s, adorned with vintage gumball machines and peg-letter boards displaying train schedules. On the platform, a Colombian woman named Maria was grilling chili cheese dogs, and the enticing aroma of frying onions attracted passengers with fleece blankets and train staff who bounded down the steps.

Initially concerned that my ticket lacked a coach or seat number, I soon realized that passengers were organized into two lines: solo travelers and groups. Following the direction of an attendant with a clipboard, we received seat assignments from the front of the carriage based on our destinations. Station names were handwritten on paper and placed above our seats, a charmingly retro touch. The train departed at 1:30 PM, clanging as it left the station, passing by quaint Baptist churches with pointed white steeples and affluent neighborhoods. As we gained speed, we flew past lake after lake.

Leaving Orlando

I took a look around the carriage. It featured a spacious aisle, roomy seats, and enough space to recline without bothering the person behind me. There were two power outlets, reading lights, and plenty of overhead storage for luggage. The café car boasted eight tables on one side and four on the other, already bustling as we departed Orlando. Passengers enjoyed movies while sipping Corona and Space Dust IPA. In Palatka, I treated myself to an Angus cheeseburger for $7.25. The gooey American cheese was just what I needed as I watched Spanish-moss-draped trees drift by.

Conversely, for those seated on the opposite side of the café car, the experience was quite different. Amtrak recently upgraded the Silver Meteor's dining car and introduced brand-new carriages. Private rooms for two passengers from Orlando to New York cost $1627, while roomettes are priced at $773, each offering lower and upper berths at night, along with shower access and all meals included. Coach class tickets are $153. Previously, all passengers could access the dining car, but due to staffing issues, I learned from the onboard manager that only one chef and one server were currently available. As a result, the dining car was closed to coach passengers, costing Amtrak 300 potential diners.

While discussing room affordability with the onboard manager—covering retirees, business travelers, and adventurous tourists—a father with a toddler interjected, mentioning that flights from Jacksonville to Baltimore would have set them back $1000. He had spent $400 on train tickets but was considering a room for their next journey.

Although not typically regarded as a scenic route, the Silver Meteor still offered passengers views of picket-fenced homes and the soft pink bodies of sandhill cranes foraging in marshes and waterways dotted with glistening lily pads. Spanish moss draped from oak trees like wizardly beards, while cabbage palms lined the tracks, adorned with numerous pineapple spikes. Swamps shimmered beneath the dense foliage, and as the sun dipped below the clouds, a warm pink glow enveloped the horizon just as we arrived in Savannah at 7:30 PM, prompting the entire carriage to disembark.

Arriving in Savannah

Smokers shuffled around in slippers as I rolled my bag across the tracks and entered the vibrant city. Charleston, just two hours away by train, is another popular stop on this route. Many passengers opt to pause their journey there, but I chose the Georgian path, spending three days indulging in soul food, eerie boulevards, and secondhand bookstores before reboarding. It was a Monday night when I returned to the heavily delayed Silver Meteor. Now packed, sock-clad feet rested on armrests, and the sweet scent of spilled Gatorade mingled with the warm atmosphere of bodies. For a brief moment, I envied those in roomettes, but then I recalled the price. I unfurled my blanket, donned an eye mask, and settled back in my seat.

Despite the bright lights, jolting movements, and late-night phone conversations, I managed to sleep, awakening at 7 AM to see orange skies signaling our approach to Washington. On the train's right side, passengers leaned down to witness the sun illuminating the Potomac River. For the last two hours, we traversed endless sparkling rivers, dotted with fishing boats and larger vessels. Autumn colors brightened the riverbanks, with fiery reds and vibrant yellows lighting up the forests. We passed abandoned cars and plumes of smoke. Inside the carriage, a unique harmony existed among the passengers. They perched on each other's armrests, shared bags of Cheetos, discussed basketball, and offered advice about relationships. They bought coffee for one another and twisted around in their seats, creating a camaraderie that was absent on the other side of the café car.

As the train rushed into a tunnel, an announcement warned that we were nearing New York and any forgotten bags would be auctioned on eBay. Amused until the very end, I made my way up the platform and entered the sunlit atrium of Moynihan Train Hall.

A single ticket from Orlando to New York is priced at $155 on Amtrak.com.