Johannesburg catching up to its stunning sibling city

Entering the Saxon Hotel is a grand experience, starting with the imposing 20-foot gate set within high walls that separate the hotel from Johannesburg's suburban sprawl, followed by a scenic drive through lush gardens, and finally, the impressive foyer with its massive ostrich egg chandelier.

For food enthusiasts, there's also the option to take a private elevator straight up to the dining room of one of the city's most exclusive eateries.

Luke Dale Roberts x The Saxon, named after the renowned chef frequently ranked among South Africa's best, stands out in many ways.

The restaurant features an impressive wine cellar, a racially diverse clientele, and of course, the exquisite eight-course tasting menu. Dishes include visually stunning shrimp ceviche served beneath delicate slices of long-stem broccoli and lamb skewered and cooked in concrete pots that resemble mortars without the pestles.

But what truly stands out is the subtle achievement the restaurant represents in Johannesburg's ongoing rivalry with Cape Town.

Luke Dale Roberts’ The Test Kitchen in Cape Town was named Africa’s top restaurant in 2016 and ranked 22nd in the world. Convincing him to open a venue at the Saxon is a major win that helps mitigate Johannesburg's complex of being the 'second city.'

Unequal competition

Johannesburg is South Africa's largest and wealthiest city, but even its biggest fans often feel burdened by constant comparisons to its stunning coastal counterpart.

"A friend of mine captured it perfectly: if Joburg and Cape Town were on a dating app, Cape Town would be the blonde in the bikini, and Joburg would be the one with the great personality," said Laurice Taitz, publisher and editor of Johannesburg In Your Pocket City Guide.

In many ways, it's an unequal competition. No other city in the world can match Cape Town's breathtaking natural beauty, where two oceans meet and the iconic Table Mountain dominates the skyline. The surrounding winelands, with their scenic fields, offer some of the country's best dining experiences.

"In truth, Joburg can never match Cape Town's stunning natural beauty, except perhaps for its brief jacaranda season in spring, when the older suburbs are blanketed in a purple haze," said Taitz.

"Historically, this was a mining town, born from a lust for gold, a draw for adventurers and risk-takers. While the shiny wealth may have faded, scratch beneath the surface, and you’ll find a wealth of people and experiences. Joburg pulses with an energy and a rhythm that can’t be found in coastal towns."

Embracing the heart of the city

What has shifted in the last decade is Johannesburg's growing acceptance of its urban identity. The city's reputation for crime has gradually improved, with recent police data indicating that it is now safer than Cape Town.

This shift has sparked a desire to reclaim the streets and sidewalks, breathing new life into spaces outside the high walls of suburban homes and shopping malls. A younger generation has infused the city’s downtown with a fresh creative energy, igniting galleries, theaters, and bookstores.

Certain neighborhoods have become sought-after destinations, attracting both international tourists and visitors from other parts of Johannesburg.

Braamfontein plays a central role in the city’s renaissance, supported by key institutions like the University of the Witwatersrand and the Constitutional Court. The university is home to landmark museums such as the Wits Art Museum and the Origins Centre, which offers an artistic take on the region’s early human history.

On the other side of the neighborhood, the Constitutional Court, located on the site of a former prison that once held Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi, now serves as both a major tourist attraction and a venue for events within the old barracks.

In between, student housing has flourished, with old buildings being repurposed, while new venues like the Orbit jazz club have attracted a creative crowd, and coffee shops and cafes now line the sidewalks.

Neighborhood transformations

In downtown Johannesburg's eastern side, the Maboneng precinct has used art to revitalize an area once dominated by old warehouses, turning it into a lively and dynamic neighborhood.

Gradually, the transformation spread to surrounding buildings, which now host the Museum of African Design, trendy restaurants and bars, and a boutique hotel.

Braamfontein and Maboneng have evolved so rapidly that they've sparked further development within Johannesburg's central business district.

Once upscale streets like Eloff and Commissioner are now home to new hidden gems. The Joziburg Lane complex at 1 Eloff has transformed an old car storage facility into loft apartments, with shopping, artist studios, and artisanal food stalls on the ground floor.

Young fashion brands like Urban Zulu have opened shops on Commissioner Street. Meanwhile, the craft brewery Mad Giant has launched a beer garden and an upscale tapas restaurant, Urbanologi, right across from the former Johannesburg Central police station.

Suburban revitalization

The downtown transformation is gradually reaching the once-secluded suburbs.

In Rosebank, traditionally known for its shopping mall, art galleries have now turned the area into a destination in its own right. The Goodman Gallery, Everard Read, and Circa are linked by the newly established Keyes Art Mile, a hub of galleries and restaurants that have become some of the city's trendiest spots.

This area was once dominated by a Caltex garage. Now, a striking new building rises just beyond the hills, where renowned chef David Higgs has opened his new restaurant, Marble.

The menu emphasizes open-fire cooking, a contemporary take on traditional South African methods, while the décor evokes the warmth of a kiln’s flames. Ceramic art by Peter Mthombeni adorns the walls and fills the tables. The expansive balcony offers sweeping views of the lush hills to the north.

It’s the kind of view that may one day make Johannesburg feel that it, too, is a beautiful city.