Journey Within a Journey: Exploring Osaka and Kyoto, Japan

Senior Director of Content Laura Motta recently spent 10 days in Japan. To maximize her experience, she added a four-day mini-adventure to Osaka and Kyoto – a journey within her journey that anyone can follow.

While everyone visits Tokyo, I wouldn’t suggest skipping it. However, an essential part of any Japan itinerary is the remarkable Shinkansen (bullet train) ride south to Osaka, unveiling the incredible sights that lie beyond. Osaka and Kyoto are a fascinating duo, packed with an abundance of shrines and temples, modern skyscraper malls, breathtaking views, and exquisite dining options that you could spend a month exploring, let alone just a few days. This was my third visit to Japan and my second time in Osaka and Kyoto.

Before diving into my recommendations, here are some practical pointers:

• When to arrive: Landing in Osaka around midday allows you to check in, recharge, and then explore Dōtonbori at night, when its iconic neon lights shine bright.

• Getting there from the airport: The clean, affordable airport limousine bus from Kansai Airport stops at eight locations in Osaka, including all major train stations.

• Getting around: Japan is renowned for its efficient public transportation, so you can easily navigate without a car. Both high-speed (more expensive/faster) and local (less expensive/slower) trains connect Kyoto and Osaka seamlessly, and both cities feature user-friendly subway systems.

• What to pack: Definitely bring your walking shoes and an appetite for ramen. Remember, Japan experiences four distinct seasons with varying temperatures, so check the weather and pack accordingly.

• How to structure your days: With so much to see, it’s tempting to over-schedule. Realistically, you’ll likely manage to visit only two major sites in a day – perhaps three if you’re really motivated – especially in Kyoto, where the top attractions can be far apart and require considerable travel time.

• Take it easy: Don’t forget to eat, stay hydrated, relax, and wander. Remind yourself that you can always return.

Day 1: Osaka

Time for a snack

After a morning of travel, it’s time to refuel. (Unless you indulged in those incredible bento boxes from Tokyo Station along the way.) Keep it easy like I did and pick up some onigiri (rice balls) or a sando from 7-Eleven. With a store on nearly every corner, you’ll spend just a few dollars, and sampling local snacks – especially in Japan – is one of the true delights of travel.

Experience the neon lights

If you find yourself in Osaka, witnessing the Glico Man is a must. Or at least, it’s my personal rule. This iconic animated sign of a runner, arms triumphantly raised as if crossing the finish line of an imaginary marathon in the sky, remains a charming sight despite the throngs of tourists below. As an advertisement for the Glico candy company (candy bars for energy – clever, right?), it has become an unofficial mascot of Dotonbori, the vibrant dining and nightlife hub of Osaka. At night, it’s a joy to stroll through the area filled with arcades, claw-machine and pachinko parlors, and various shops. If you come here on a weeknight, the atmosphere is pleasantly serene.

Insider tip: Arrive before sunset and venture into a small side street to Hōzen-ji, a quaint temple renowned for its moss-covered statues. I happened to be there as the lanterns were being lit for the evening – truly a magical experience.

Enjoy an affordable and delightful dinner

Dotonbori is bustling with eateries. You can’t overlook the vibrant signs touting takoyaki (grilled octopus balls), gyoza, and crab. My top pick for takoyaki is Takoyaki Yoriyabunzaemon, which is modest compared to its flashy neighbors; there’s no towering marquee here. Inside, you’ll find yourself perched on a worn barstool as the sole chef expertly pours takoyaki batter into the iconic round molds, serving it to you hot and topped with mayo, barbecue sauce, and bonito flakes. A word of caution: if you cherish the skin on the roof of your mouth, pace yourself with the eating.

Day 2: Kyoto

High-speed train

The Shinkansen between Osaka and Kyoto is both affordable and incredibly fast. This journey is often included in various Japanese rail passes, but if you're purchasing a separate ticket, it costs 1,420 yen (about US$10). The trip lasts just 15 minutes, making slower local trains seem hardly worth the slightly lower fare. Arrive in the afternoon and head to your hotel to check in and drop off your bags. Before leaving, don’t forget to search for the eki ink stamp at Kyoto Station, which you can press into a notebook as a keepsake. Every train station in Japan features a uniquely designed stamp, although you may need to ask staff at smaller stations for its location.

Experience luxury living

If there’s a city in Japan where you should treat yourself to an exquisite hotel, it’s Kyoto. Whether you’re meandering through vibrant autumn foliage or enjoying the delicate cherry blossoms of spring, or exploring the quaint alleys and sloped streets of the Gion district, Kyoto exudes romance with its otherworldly temples and shrines. I opted for Hotel the Mitsui Kyoto, a stunning new luxury hotel that harmonizes modern design with traditional Japanese elements. Alongside its exceptional restaurant – more on that later – the standout feature is its innovative take on the classic onsen, known as Thermal Spring. This expansive, softly lit indoor area boasts heated pools and loungers set amid stunning rock formations and water features. Unlike many onsen experiences, this one requires bathing suits and welcomes all genders to enjoy together. Plus, there’s no extra fee for entry.

Explore the temples

My boyfriend playfully calls Fushimi Inari Taisha, the renowned shrine in Kyoto adorned with countless vermillion gates climbing a steep hillside, the “Instagram shrine.” It’s hard to argue with him; the site is incredibly popular among international visitors for a reason. The gates are simply stunning and, yes, very photogenic. Just don’t expect to have the place to yourself.

Insider tip: Afterwards, make sure to stop by the delightful Vermillion Cafe for a sweet treat and coffee. Enjoy the serene atmosphere from the back porch, which overlooks a picturesque stretch of forest, especially beautiful in autumn.

If you still have some energy in the afternoon, visit Nishi Hongan-ji, a massive Buddhist temple complex boasting some of the largest wooden structures in Japan. After admiring the grand lanterns and vast halls, check out the vividly painted Chinese Gate, which dates back to the late 1500s. This temple is conveniently located within walking distance of Kyoto Station, making it a great spot to begin or conclude your journey.

Day 3: Kyoto

Chase the golden splendor

Kinkaku-Ji, often referred to as the Golden Pavilion, stands as one of Kyoto’s (and Japan’s) most iconic and photographed sites. This UNESCO World Heritage site features a stunning gold temple that seems to float on the banks of a tranquil lake. It’s absolutely worth navigating the crowds, especially on sunny days when the temple's reflection dances on the water’s surface. Arrive early, bring your patience, and you’ll quickly see why so many visitors are drawn here.

A quick snack

School Bus Coffee Stop is a delightful place for a simple, budget-friendly breakfast or lunch, set in cozy, industrial-farmhouse-inspired decor. Enjoy comforting choices like bagel sandwiches and avocado toast, all paired with the café’s superb, house-roasted coffee.

Contemporary charm

For a refreshing aesthetic experience after a quick meal, visit the Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art, which features rotating exhibitions, often showcasing contemporary and modern art, within a stunning brick building dating back to the 1930s.

Flavor explosion

You definitely shouldn't miss dining at the Hotel the Mitsui Kyoto's elegantly vibrant Italian restaurant, Forni. While the à la carte menu features pizzas and pastas, I highly recommend indulging in the tasting dinner, where beautifully presented dishes like sea bream citrus tartare and grilled wagyu are served on geometric plates and stands. It's truly a visual and culinary delight.

Day 4: Osaka

Stylish accommodations

After indulging in luxury during my stay in Kyoto, I returned to Osaka seeking budget-friendly options without sacrificing too much comfort. I wasn't quite ready to sleep in a tiny pod or eat exclusively at 7-Eleven (well, maybe just occasionally). Upon arriving at the vast Shin-Osaka Station from Kyoto, I easily navigated the metro to one of the best places I've stayed in Japan: the stylish yet minimalist Hotel Noum, located just across the river from Temmai Station. Its prime location facilitated transport connections while keeping me away from the hectic bustle of Umeda, Osaka’s towering business district. The rooms are small, comfortable, and impeccably clean; mine boasted a river view. The hotel also features a bright coffee shop in the lobby that attracts as many locals as visitors. I stopped by for a breakfast pastry and a latte, ready to kick off my day.

Shopping without windows

Even if you’re not staying in Umeda, it’s a neighborhood you must explore. Spend a day meandering through its vast, sprawling indoor shopping malls and subterranean food courts. You might not catch a glimpse of daylight, but you'll discover everything from luxurious Hermès bags to the most delicious 300-yen (US$2) gyoza you've ever had. I enjoy visiting the giant red whale that hangs from the atrium of the Hep Five department store, which features a ferris wheel on its rooftop.

Indulge in a deliciously messy lunch

Train stations are the best places to find incredible food in Japan, and Osaka's expansive Umeda Station is no exception. My top choice for train-station ramen is Menya Takei, conveniently located just behind the entrance gates for the Hankyu Railway. Menya Takei is known for its tsukemen, where the ramen noodles and broth are served separately. Dip the noodles into the rich broth as you enjoy—sure, you’ll likely end up with some splatters on your clothes, but that’s all part of the experience. If you come home with a mountain of laundry, you know it was a fantastic trip.

Insider tip: Ask the gate agent for access. You’ll need to buy a rail ticket to enter, but they may refund you on your way out.

From Osaka, hop back on the Shinkansen for more adventures in Japan, or follow my lead and catch a quick, budget-friendly domestic flight to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to connect with your flight home.

Continue planning your journey through Japan:

Explore the 24 top attractions in Japan Check if you require a visa to visit the country Hit the road with these scenic drives Learn how to experience Japan on a budget