Journeying 11,000 Years Back in Türkiye

I’ve officially reached... a remote destination. After two flights from New York to Istanbul and then to Şanlıurfa, Türkiye—a place even my young Turkish gate agent was unfamiliar with. From the center of Şanlıurfa, it’s a half-hour van ride through low, rocky hills in earthy tones, dotted with dry grass. We head east toward the Syrian border, into the historical region of Mesopotamia along the northern edge of the Fertile Crescent, to witness a remarkable collection of arranged stones—one of the most significant archaeological finds in human history.

Heading East to Göbekli Tepe

It truly feels like the middle of nowhere, yet it’s a peculiar way to describe a place that might have been the cradle of civilization. “But why here?!” I overhear a tourist exclaim as I ascend the long path to the main excavation site. “Why not nearer to a big city?” Well, because you’re actually right in the midst of somewhere, around 9600 B.C.

The Neolithic site rests atop a modest hill, enveloped by a landscape that feels otherworldly: an entire terrain blanketed in basalt soil and sun-baked grass. The view from this vantage point is breathtaking; even the most restless hunter-gatherers might consider settling here. Ahead, sheltered beneath a sweeping protective structure are the notable buildings: A, B, C, D, and, of course, E. These oval-shaped communal spaces feature 11,500-year-old carved T-pillars standing on bedrock pedestals, first uncovered in 1995. None has been completely excavated yet.

Large groups of around 50 visitors wander along a raised walkway, capturing photos of the structures. In 2018, Göbekli Tepe was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, and by 2021, nearly half a million tourists from both abroad and domestically had flocked to the area, with even larger record-breaking crowds anticipated this year as the region has become safer to explore.

I meet with Dr. Lee Clare, the archaeologist overseeing the Göbekli Tepe Project, at the very location where excavations began in the ’90s by another German archaeologist, Klaus Schmidt. Lee, a youthful expert in prehistoric archaeology, sports skinny jeans and a sun hat. A few friendly stray cats accompany us as he discusses the site, a continuous settlement illustrating the slow transition from hunter-gatherers to settled farmers over a millennium, if not longer.

Dr. Clare emphasizes one point: This is not a temple. Regardless of our conditioning to view megaliths as religious sites, there are no deities, gods, or goddesses depicted here. Instead, these T-pillars symbolize the ancestors of the settlers, adorned with distinct carvings: a fox cradled under an arm, along with images of snakes, insects, and cranes. Remarkably, this was all created by hunter-gatherers without the aid of metal tools. “These were not primitive people,” he insists. “They were modern humans using simple tools.”

The excavation site feels oddly familiar—though everything I’m comparing it to emerged later, if not much later. Low stone walls define oval-shaped rooms with built-in seating. Enormous vertical stone pillars are arranged to create a communal area. The imagery on these T-pillars is crucial to humanity's narrative. Dr. Clare explains, “Here lies the earliest instance of a man-made environment, where they carved their myths and stories into large stones, creating a space that fosters identity, belonging, and community during a significant transition in human history. This transition from hunting-gathering to farming is gradual. It’s part of a cognitive shift that requires adaptation.”

However, what excited him most wasn’t the massive 50-ton carved stones towering over 16 feet, but a secluded area devoid of tourists taking selfies. We made our way to a small rectangular stone room on the opposite side of the walkway. “These are domestic structures from the ninth millennium B.C.,” he notes. “This is truly remarkable. The preservation is excellent. The back wall remains intact: a two-meter-high wall of a structure that dates back around 10,000 years. It’s a dream come true.”

We examined the plastered floor of the structure, which featured a basin, likely a hearth or oven, along with basalt grinding stones. It was undeniably domestic. Dr. Clare explained, “These buildings coexisted. It was a continuous settlement with residential buildings, homes, and special structures all at once.”

If he’s enthusiastic, I share that excitement. It might seem like the simplest section of the entire site, yet it’s also the most revealing. The ordinary can be both beautiful and remarkable if we allow ourselves to appreciate it. Yes, our brains are drawn to the spectacular, but a site of this significance invites us to look deeper. As we surveyed the landscape, he reminded me of the vast potential for discovery. “It doesn’t matter where you dig here,” he chuckled. “The entire site is rich in archaeology. The whole site. You can see it just breaking through the surface.”

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Later in the afternoon, I head to another remote location. Karahan Tepe, about an hour’s drive away, is sometimes referred to as the sister site of Göbekli Tepe, discovered in 1997. It is just beginning to welcome tourists, with plans for a protective roof similar to that at Göbekli Tepe. We arrive at a black shipping container and are led to a small courtyard for tea with Dr. Necmi Karul, a professor from Istanbul University who is spearheading the excavations.

In the distance, more rock mounds rise, with over 250 T-pillars protruding from the earth, and only a small portion of the landscape has been excavated. It will take another century to complete the work. Archaeology demands patience. “We need to focus on specific questions and leave the broader picture for future generations,” Karul states. “Not having the answers is part of the grand mystery. Everyone is curious—including me,” he chuckled. “This region holds significance for the entire world; it’s part of our shared humanity.”

While we overlook the main site, he also discusses the concept of the temple. “Labeling it as a temple could diminish its true purpose. These structures unite people. When people gather, it invites conversation. They can chat, gossip, dance, and create music. It encompasses everything.”

Dr. Karul gestures toward a stone face intricately carved into the wall. “Prior to discovering human figures, most depictions were of animals . . . and at the onset of settled life, humans identified as part of the animal realm. However, after about a century of communal living, humans positioned themselves at the center of the universe. Thus began our descent into imbalance.”

This moment may indeed mark when we began to lose our harmony with nature. Perhaps it is our role as visitors to ponder the implications of these findings. To use travel as a lens to reflect on our origins. To explore the places once inhabited by our ancestors and to embrace the mysteries that remain unanswered.

As I gaze out at the two parts of Karahan Tepe, I see a meticulously excavated section alongside vast expanses of grassy hills yet to be explored. There’s an abundance still to uncover—but one doesn’t visit a place like this seeking straightforward answers. Every location on Earth exists within a larger context, and ultimately, questions and stories are what we truly possess.

Essential Information

Traveling there: Turkish Airlines operates three daily flights from Istanbul to Şanlıurfa.

Essential Visit: Before heading to Göbekli Tepe, make sure to stop by Şanlıurfa’s Archaeological Museum. It features a chronological display and showcases numerous artifacts uncovered from both Göbekli Tepe and Karahan Tepe.

Being a Respectful Visitor: When exploring Göbekli Tepe and Karahan Tepe, remember that these are active excavation sites. Archaeologists work tirelessly six days a week from dawn until 10 p.m. It’s crucial to honor their efforts by refraining from interruptions for photos or inquiries.