Just When You Thought You Knew Bangkok, Thailand’s Most Popular City Evolves

From the end of an L-shaped bar, I observed three chefs in black hats artfully plating 11 dishes resembling snow. The loud music drowned out the bustling Bangkok street outside. “Alright, everyone, this dish is called ‘Daft Punk Is Playing in My Mouth,’” announced chef Sareen Rojanametin as he presented the intriguing creation. Just then, the pulsating LCD Soundsystem track “Daft Punk Is Playing at My House” filled the air.

The first bite sent shockwaves through me. At Small Dinner Club, which “deconstructs, questions, and reimagines Thai cuisine,” there’s no menu. The 12-course experiences are a delightful enigma, paired with insights from the 32-year-old chef who launched this hidden gem in February 2022. “This dish captures the essence of Thai cooking,” he wrote. I anticipated coconut or lime; instead, I was met with a burst of Thai green chili. My eyebrows began to sweat. I blended it all: hot ice, tiny shimmering fish, watermelon, and a rich black sesame sauce. These flavors of Thailand came together in an entirely new composition. Rojanametin, who spent two years in a forest monastery before opening his restaurant, shared, “The city has transformed greatly in the past four years. People are far more adventurous.”

Surprise emerged as a recurring theme during my recent trip to Bangkok. Before the pandemic, this city was the most visited in the world, famous for its floating markets and intricate temples. Now, it’s undergoing a renaissance, fueled by the creativity of young Thais like Rojanametin. A wave of ambitious entrepreneurs, driven by cultural pride, are crafting galleries, cafes, vibrant restaurants, and lively theme bars. “Being in Bangkok right now is incredible,” Rojanametin shares. “The scene is thriving, the culture is alive, and people are engaged.”

I caught glimpses of the bustling Chao Phraya River while navigating through the historic districts of Bangrak-Klongsan (recently dubbed Bangkok’s creative hub) and Talad Noi. Local guides from the luxury travel company Smiling Albino take tourists on cycling tours here, but it’s mainly Bangkok’s youth who’ve uncovered the rich opportunities for Instagram-worthy photos. One soi, or small alley, serves as an outdoor gallery, featuring murals of whimsical Thai and Chinese characters on one wall and 49 gritty, film-shot images by local photographers on the other. Longtime food vendors and jewelry makers collaborate with newcomers launching spots like Hong Sieng Kong, an antique-filled café located in a 150-year-old riverside warehouse, where brick walls are embraced by a fig tree.

Mook Attakanwong, whose family’s Lek Gallery has been a staple in Bangrak for over 45 years, opened ATT 19, a multidisciplinary art space, in February 2019. This family venture includes her sister, Cher, who runs the adjacent 12-seat kaiseki restaurant Mad Beef, and their mother, who bakes cakes for ATT 19’s café. Mook, 31, worked in fashion in New York City before returning to Bangkok with the vision of establishing a free gallery that welcomes young visitors—no reservations needed. As creative director, she curates exhibitions featuring emerging local artists that address issues like women’s equality and mental health.

In the Bang Khun Thian neighborhood, the vibrant Poomjai Garden stands as a testament to owner Aey Tiensup’s relentless efforts to transform her family’s once-littered canal-side property (photo albums reveal the prior chaos), evolving it into a living museum, restaurant, and a space for workshops and private events. Tiensup enthusiastically guided me through the 2.77-acre permaculture park, bursting with hairy eggplant, bilimbi (tree sorrel), som saa (bitter orange), and purple-hued butterfly pea. Clipping plants along the way, she explained their various uses. “What’s a weed to someone else is food for me,” she remarked as we meandered through the rewilded lychee garden, a family treasure since before King Rama V’s era (1868–1910).

As Tiensup worked tirelessly to restore the land and the beloved community she often referred to as “precious” during our tour, her 31-year-old son, Andy Chotsrileocha, observed his peers growing passionate about sustainability. He recognized that the best way to honor their family legacy was to create a profitable venture. Now, both mother and son, along with staff from the local community, welcome 500 visitors every weekend.

While savoring Tiensup’s delicate miang kham—a dish of slow-roasted coconut and herbs wrapped in fresh coral tree leaves alongside sour bilimbi—she revealed a large book of maps. “I want my sons to feel proud of this land, of Bangkok, of Thailand. Cooking traditional food is crucial; it connects us all,” she said, her eyes sparkling. “Food serves as a bridge linking development, community, and history.” Notably, Poomjai translates to proud.

I observed the thriving culinary landscape of Bangkok at every turn. Currently, there are 30 Michelin-starred restaurants—R-Haan, Khao, and Yu Ting Yuan among them—with more on the horizon, like the new Potong, nestled within chef-owner Pichaya (Pam) Utharntharm’s traditional Chinese herbal medicine pharmacy. She offers a 20-course set menu that reflects Thai Chinese flavors, featuring local ingredients in dishes with names like “beautiful” (blood clam, pomegranate, fermented chile, and lily kimchi).

Being temporarily isolated from the outside world turned out to be a blessing for the city. Attakanwong, the founder of ATT 19, noted that many Thai creatives living abroad returned during the pandemic. “And,” she remarked, “they’re back for good,” having found a renewed sense of purpose, urgency, and gratitude. “There’s been a significant exchange of knowledge, along with introspection as we strive to address the challenges we see in the city.”

Essential Tips for Your Trip Planning

• Getting There: While there are no direct flights from the U.S., Air Canada introduced seasonal flights from Vancouver to Bangkok starting December 1, marking the first direct connection from North America in a decade.
• Accommodation: Check out The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon, which opened in late July, featuring bold, flowing designs and a thoughtfully curated concept store.
• Must-Try Dish: Sample Kuay teow reua (boat noodles), prepared with Thai basil, morning glory, and chile, all simmered in a tom yum broth.
• Extend Your Stay: Take a long-tail boat to Bang Krachao, known as Bangkok's Green Lung, an island full of farmland, jungles, and forests. Explore on two wheels and spend the night in a villa at the wellness retreat RAKxa.