Katskhi Pillar: The Astonishing Church Where Brave Monks Ascend to the Divine

Navigating the picturesque, serpentine roads of Georgia’s secluded Imereti region is a delightful experience, though it’s not the kind of journey you'd expect to lead to a spiritual destination.

That is, until you spot a discreet sign marking the way to a church.

This path leads to the Katskhi pillar – a towering limestone monolith reaching over 130 feet (40 meters) high, where one of the most isolated and revered churches in the world resides.

Located about 200 kilometers (125 miles) west of Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, this remarkable site is notoriously hard to access. With no train service in the area, your only options are to travel by car or bus, but the effort is well worth it.

The final stretch is a 20-minute hike, where the towering monolith slowly emerges on the horizon, set against the vibrant backdrop of Georgia's landscape. The experience feels almost magical, intensifying as you approach the pillar. A steep climb up a set of unfinished steps signals that you are nearing your destination.

At the foot of the pillar, a monastery and a small chapel are visible to the right, while the 130-foot limestone column rises majestically on the left, captivating all who see it.

Wine cellar

The Katskhi complex is unlike any other. At the summit of the towering column stands a church dating back to the 6th to 8th centuries, dedicated to Maximus the Confessor, a 7th-century monk. The site also includes a burial chamber, a wine cellar, a defensive curtain wall, and three hermit cells.

Each day, monks residing below make the spine-tingling 20-minute climb up a narrow metal ladder affixed to the side of the rock. This daily journey to pray at the summit is believed to bring them closer to the divine.

Until 2015, Father Maxime Qavtaradze, who dedicated 20 years of his life to this sacred site, would also make the ascent. He was the last monk to live atop the pillar and built a new church there in 1995.

At the base of the pillar lies the newly built Church of Simeon Stylites, along with a monastery and the ruins of an old wall and belfry.

Today, the Katskhi pillar remains one of the world’s most revered spiritual sites. Only the local monks are permitted to scale the steel ladder leading to the top, a privilege that is exclusively theirs.

The daily climb from the monastery below to the church above is considered a sacred pilgrimage, a way for the monks to offer themselves fully to God through this physical act of devotion.

Strict regulations

Only men from a religious order are permitted to ascend the stairway to the heavens. Throughout history, women have never been allowed to scale the column.

Leader Ilarion, head of the monastery, shares with Dinogo Travel that since 2018, an edict from Patriarch Ilia II, the spiritual leader of the Georgian Orthodox Church, has prohibited the public from climbing the pillar to visit the church at its summit.

"The Patriarch issued a decree that only the monks are permitted to enter the church at the top of the pillar. Until that decision is reversed, we are not allowed to allow any visitors to ascend," says Ilarion.

Although now restricted from visiting the summit themselves, locals take great pride in their landmark, revered globally as the 'pillar of life' and regarded as a representation of the true cross.

Local resident George Tsertsvadze believes the restrictions are essential for maintaining the sanctity of Katskhi.

"Only those of a religious calling are allowed to ascend, and we respect that decision," he tells Dinogo Travel. "It’s partly to protect the structures, but also to preserve the site's sacredness."

The Katskhi pillar remained untouched by outsiders until 1944, when an expedition led by Georgian mountaineer Alexander Japaridze and writer Levan Gotua made the ascent to the top for a more thorough exploration.

At the time, it was believed that the structures atop the pillar were built in the 5th to 6th centuries, but this estimate was later corrected by the Georgian National Museum, which dated the construction to the 9th and 10th centuries.

Forbidden ascent

"There are many misconceptions surrounding the history of the pillar, so it’s crucial that people hear the true story," says Ilarion.

"The first monks settled in the church during the 10th and 11th centuries, living atop the pillar. Today, no monks reside there; we only ascend to pray and then return to the monastery below," he adds.

While climbing to the top of the pillar is no longer allowed, there is still much to explore within the Katskhi complex.

The monastery and its surrounding structures were restored in 2009 through a state-funded program, with ongoing efforts to provide visitors an experience reminiscent of what existed more than 1,000 years ago. Plans are also underway for a new visitor center and a small souvenir shop.

Visitors can still ascend to the first level of the pillar, where a prayer area and a 6th-century cross etched into the limestone await—one of the earliest Christian symbols still visible today. There’s also space for lighting candles and praying within a carved rock enclosure.

"The site was first recognized as Christian in the 6th century when a cross was etched into the base of the pillar," explains Ilarion. "The church was built later, and despite its age, the entire complex remains fully operational today."

The Church of Simeon Stylites, a small and charming chapel decorated with religious artwork and artifacts, rests at ground level. This serene space is open to visitors wishing to pray, and inside, they will find exquisite frescoes, a modest altar, and a small area to light candles.

Upon leaving the chapel, visitors are treated to a breathtaking view of the picturesque Georgian countryside, with the towering pillar standing proudly to the right.

Through a gate to the right of the chapel, the monastery itself can be seen in the distance. While the building is off-limits to the public, Ilarion and the other monks are often seen walking around the complex, engaging with visitors and sharing their wisdom with all who are eager to listen.

How to get there

There are two primary routes to reach the Katskhi pillar.

From Tbilisi

A bus ride from Tbilisi’s Didube bus station to Chiatura takes approximately three to three-and-a-half hours. While there are no official online schedules for national buses or marshrutkas in Georgia, buses typically operate every hour from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Once in Chiatura, local taxis can take you directly to the Katskhi pillar.

From Batumi

Buses depart every hour from Batumi to Kutaisi starting at 7 a.m., with the journey taking just over two hours. Upon reaching Kutaisi, passengers can board another bus for a one-hour trip to Chiatura. The buses will stop right at the entrance to the Katskhi pillar complex on the way.