LA: America’s Fast-Food Epicenter

Los Angeles is a place where even the simplest foods are transformed into something extraordinary. A breakfast of eggs and bacon may top off innovative rice bowls featuring premium ingredients, all served from a counter with a line stretching outside. A tostada with expertly spiced mariscos from a food truck might be ordered for social media fame rather than pure enjoyment. While classic burger joints are fading, high-priced burgers are found all over.

LA’s top chefs distinguish themselves by infusing classic dishes with imaginative flair, and the city’s media culture hails the “best” of every type of affordable fare. However, elevating everyday food with upscale ingredients and turning local spots into hotspots has introduced a new form of exclusivity. Trendy patrons flaunt their social and financial freedom, spending time in the heat to enjoy high-quality food, and you might overhear them rave about a new Thai restaurant or elusive food truck as a cultural badge.

In contrast, truly affordable Mytouries that fuel the city go unnoticed, despite their deep roots in 20th-century culture and LA’s diverse immigrant communities. Many Angelenos pass these spots daily, either on their commute or while waiting in line. Though not labeled “authentic,” they serve beloved dishes from around the world, providing a consistent and budget-friendly taste of home. Modern LA thrives on the presence of international fast-food chains.

Southern California birthed America’s fast-food revolution, giving rise not only to giants like McDonald’s and Taco Bell but also to icons like In-N-Out, Baskin-Robbins, and Panda Express. The city’s diverse fast-food landscape reflects the stark inequalities and class divides sustained by the marginalized. Yet, these Mytouries are among the most inclusive spaces in Los Angeles, offering refuge to the homeless, the elderly relying on Jollibee for dinner, commuters seeking a break at Ono Hawaiian BBQ, or the respected trans employee at their local El Pollo Loco.

In our fragmented society, where dining experiences become increasingly sophisticated and often out of reach, fast-food chains remain a place of inclusion, welcoming everyone, even those with just $5 to spare.

Jollibee

Established in 1975 in Quezon City, Philippines, Jollibee now boasts over 750 locations in the Philippines and 26 in the U.S., where its openings are celebrated with enthusiasm. Originally a family-run ice cream shop, Jollibee has expanded to offer fusion dishes like sweet-style spaghetti alongside comforting Filipino classics such as palabok (noodles in a rich sauce with seafood) and halo-halo, creating a communal space for Filipinos to connect and converse in Tagalog.

Sheng Jara has been managing the Beverly branch of Jollibee for nearly ten years. Originally from the Philippines, Sheng had only her husband and a few relatives when she moved to the U.S. She explains, “Filipinos are renowned for our hospitality and love for family. Jollibee feels like home because you’re surrounded by fellow Filipinos. Whether you speak Tagalog or English, everyone feels welcome!”

Allen M., 16, is a big fan of Jollibee’s chicken. After some encouragement from his enthusiastic mother, who eagerly pushed him in front of my camera, he explains why he’s so fond of it. “I’m from the Philippines, where it’s everywhere. Jollibee stands out from other fast-food joints because you get a full meal with rice and more.” Allen is referring to the rice meals, which include a protein with steamed white rice and gravy, with rice available as an option alongside any Jollibee meal, similar to how you might add curly fries to a burger order.

Bryan P., 19, and Edwin M., 25, are both Los Angeles natives. It’s Bryan’s first visit to Jollibee, thanks to Edwin’s recommendation to try the chicken and pineapple juice. Edwin has been coming to Jollibee since he was a child, accompanied by his parents.

Unlike typical fast-food joints, Jollibee rarely sees solo diners. Instead, its dining area is bustling with families of all types—parents with their kids, multi-generational groups including grandparents, and extended families with aunts and cousins—all engaged in lively conversations.

El Pollo Loco

Founded in Sinaloa, Mexico, in the mid-1970s, El Pollo Loco made its U.S. debut a decade later with a location on Alvarado Street in MacArthur Park, downtown Los Angeles. The chain operates in two distinct versions: the original Sinaloa-based El Pollo Loco, still owned by the Ochoa family, and the independently managed U.S. branches. El Pollo Loco’s menu revolves around grilled marinated chicken, often paired with tortillas and fresh pico de gallo.

Claudia Valenzuela, who manages the Silver Lake El Pollo Loco, moved from Mexico to Los Angeles ten years ago. She shares with a chuckle, “Working here feels like being back in Mexico, as most of my colleagues are Latinx, predominantly from Mexico.”

Lauren E. isn't just a fan of the chicken avocado burrito—she's a dedicated enthusiast. “The first time I visited, I was blown away. The staff here genuinely seem to love their work, and the food is fantastic. I make sure to come to this El Pollo Loco regularly,” she says.

Lauren also mentioned a recent short documentary she saw about the Pollo West franchise, which partners with TransCanWork to offer employment opportunities to trans womxn within the franchise.

Lauren discovered through the documentary that, given the unemployment rate for transgender Americans is double that of the general population, LA-based transgender advocate Michaela Mendelsohn started TransCanWork. This pioneering program is designed to help trans individuals secure jobs in the fast-food industry, which made Lauren a loyal supporter of El Pollo Loco.

While this particular day sees a notable crowd of people in their 50s, Claudia notes that the restaurant attracts a diverse mix of patrons. Previously popular with hipsters, the spot now seems to draw more single men and college students.

Ono Hawaiian BBQ

Though Hawai‘i is a U.S. state, its distinct cuisine can be hard to find on the mainland. Ono Hawaiian BBQ acts more like an ‘international’ chain in California, offering a mass-market take on traditional Hawaiian dishes that might be unfamiliar to locals. Hawai‘i’s culinary landscape is a rich tapestry of native Hawaiian, Japanese, Korean, Portuguese, Filipino, and other immigrant food traditions, influenced by its diverse history of plantation workers and settlers.

Ono Hawaiian BBQ's menu draws from the Hawai‘i plate lunch tradition, which likely originated from Japanese bento boxes brought by immigrants. Their plate lunches feature two servings of steamed white rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and a choice of protein on a bed of steamed cabbage. The kālua pork is slow-cooked and glazed with teriyaki sauce, while the katsu plate—a popular Japanese dish of fried, breaded chicken or pork cutlet—is paired with a tangy sauce that echoes the flavors of American barbecue.

Sisters Star J. and Tonisha J. have turned their visits to Ono Hawaiian BBQ into a cherished routine, always ordering the same favorites: grilled chicken breast with lemon or Hawaiian BBQ chicken, each served with two scoops of rice and a scoop of mac salad. “Dining at Ono feels like a little escape, bringing a touch of Hawai‘i to Los Angeles,” says Tonisha. Star adds, “The food is absolutely fantastic.”

Zankou Chicken

Long before the recent surge of restaurants featuring Israeli, Middle Eastern, and North African cuisine, Los Angeles was already home to shawarma, falafel, tabbouleh, and couscous salads, thanks to immigrants from Iran, Armenia, and Palestine. In Glendale, with its significant Armenian community, a 56-year-old family-owned Armenian Mytoury—originating from a modest street corner in Beirut—continues to thrive. The Los Angeles Times has hailed this chain as one of the city’s most cherished dining spots.

Martha K., who relocated from Atlanta, has made Zankou's No. 13, the shish kebab plate, her go-to choice. “Atlanta has its own rich culture, but I didn’t experience Mediterranean cuisine until I moved to LA,” she shared.

Tina Ovsepyan, an executive assistant at Zankou, fondly recalls growing up with the chain. Her family frequented Zankou for both lunch and dinner, and her childhood favorite, the Chicken Tarna plate, remains a cherished memory.

During the lunch rush, the dining room is abuzz with young professionals grabbing quick wraps or plate meals before hurrying back to work. Amidst the hustle, a few diners take their time. An older Iranian mother and her grown daughter savor a whole chicken meal, chatting and laughing in Farsi; a solo middle-aged white man diligently works on his crossword puzzle while enjoying pita with garlic sauce; and a trio of vacationing friends snaps photos of their vibrant neon-pink pickled turnip. The dining area reflects the rich diversity of Los Angeles, offering a sense of community and a delightful meal.

Oriana Koren is a Los Angeles-based photographer and writer focused on documenting culture and identity in marginalized communities. When not traveling for on-location shoots, Oriana operates from their daylight studio in downtown Los Angeles’s Fashion District.Fact-checked by Pearly HuangCopy edited by Rachel P. Kreiter