Lake Tarapoto, a remote gem in the Amazon, attracts visitors with its unique blend of piranhas and pink dolphins.

Piranhas, pink dolphins, and black caimans—these creatures may sound mythical, but they are the real inhabitants of a protected Amazon wetlands, home to rare species and captivating legends of gods turning humans into dolphins.

Storytelling is a vital tradition for the Amazon's indigenous tribes, and the wetlands are central to their myths. One such tale from the Ticuna people speaks of a pink dolphin in human form who attends village festivities, charming women who fall for this tall stranger. He lures them to the river, where they are transformed into dolphins just like him.

The waters of Lagos de Tarapoto are not only steeped in folklore—they are crucial to the survival of many species. Recognizing this, the region was granted protected status in 2018 after a five-year campaign to secure international recognition by the Ramsar Convention.

For years, scientists have been studying the wetlands surrounding Lake Tarapoto, a part of an intricate network of waterways. The lake, fed by the Amazon River, connects to many smaller lakes through a labyrinth of creeks.

Researchers have cataloged up to 900 plant species, 300 bird species, 176 fish, 56 reptiles, 46 mammals, and 30 amphibians. Spanning 400 square kilometers, these wetlands are home to one of the highest concentrations of river dolphins in the Colombian Amazon.

Omacha, in collaboration with WWF and local communities, recently launched a satellite monitoring initiative to track cetaceans across the Amazon basin.

The wetlands are vital for dolphin reproduction and serve as a crucial breeding ground for fish, supporting the livelihoods of 22 indigenous communities. Among the species is the pirarucú, a giant fish native to the Amazon, which can grow up to 10 feet long and has been a key food source for centuries, enjoyed fresh, dried, or salted.

Tourism and conservation in action

Tourism provides essential income for local communities, while the conservation of this unique water system ensures a sustainable future. Visitors can hire indigenous guides to navigate the lake and rivers, spotting wildlife and learning about the region’s historical significance.

Lake Tarapoto, a 37-square-kilometer expanse of water, is the centerpiece of the wetland region. Located just a short distance from Puerto Nariño, a town on the edge of the Amazon River in Colombia's Amazonas region, it’s an easily accessible natural treasure.

Visitors to this remote region flock to the lake hoping to catch a rare sight of the pink dolphin or try their hand at piranha fishing. The non-profit-run Centro de Interpretación Ambiental Natütama provides extensive information on the pink dolphins and manatees found in the area.

There is no consensus on why the pink dolphins are pink, as some individuals, called 'boto' locally, remain gray. Color variations exist, with adult males typically being the most vibrant pink, possibly due to their frequent fights, with their scar tissue turning pink. Another theory suggests they camouflage with the red mud found in some rivers after heavy rains.

While swimming is allowed in the lakes, they are known to be infested with piranhas, so it’s advisable to check with your guide before taking a dip.

The use of motorized boats in tours, alongside logging, hunting, and overfishing, was threatening the biodiversity of the wetland complex. In response, scientists and local indigenous communities united to petition Ramsar, the Swiss conservation organization, to designate Lake Tarapoto as a 'wetland of international importance' in 2018. It became the first such protected area in the Colombian Amazon.

"Ramsar sites are globally recognized for their exceptional biodiversity and natural wealth. These areas must be preserved and sustainably managed to ensure their ongoing health. Large-scale mining and major infrastructure projects are prohibited within Ramsar-designated wetlands," explains Saulo Usma, Freshwater Specialist at WWF Colombia.

For those wishing to explore the lake, Puerto Nariño offers accommodations in a small, eco-conscious town of 6,000 mostly indigenous residents. The town is free from cars or motorized vehicles, and all tours are conducted by traditional wooden boats.

Puerto Nariño can be reached by plane from Bogotá, Medellín, or Cartagena. While the town offers basic amenities, it serves as an excellent starting point to discover the Amazonas region’s natural beauty and immerse yourself in indigenous culture.

Collaborating with local communities to safeguard the wetlands

The site's protected status enables funding for conservation initiatives, as highlighted by local community leaders.

"The Ramsar designation for the Tarapoto lakes presents a chance to enhance, protect, and preserve our natural, cultural, and social assets," says Lilia Isolina Java Tapayuri, a community leader from the Cocama ethnic group.

Engaging with local indigenous groups has been crucial in the conservation effort. The Sinchi Institute, one of the Colombian environmental organizations involved in securing protection for the lake, has been collaborating with local fishermen to ensure their participation in the process.

"Sinchi has played a key role in developing the site's management plan," says Mariela Osorno, a biologist specializing in the Amazon region. "We’ve also worked closely with fishermen from the Tarapoto system, training them in data collection, community monitoring, and sustainable fishing practices in the area."

The institute is also partnering with local communities to create a bird guide for the region and provide training so villagers can start their own birdwatching tourism businesses.

"Participants have been taught birdwatching techniques, species identification, and how to use bird guides," explains Osorno, noting that Sinchi has also helped locals recover traditional bird names in the native languages of the region.

"Conserving and managing this region is crucial to preserving the genetic diversity of its species, ecosystems, and landscapes, as well as protecting the culture and wisdom of the indigenous communities, especially the Ticuna (or Maguta), Cocama, and Yagua people."

A visit to this untouched, tranquil part of the world will undoubtedly leave you with a deeper appreciation for simple living, in harmony with nature.