Local Delights: dining and drinking in Palma de Mallorca
I’ve seen Palma’s culinary reputation soar in recent years. The capital of Mallorca is rapidly becoming one of the Mediterranean’s premier food destinations. Chefs are taking advantage of the island’s abundant fresh produce from the sea, mountains, meadows, farms, and orchards to create dishes that are as inventive as they are delicious.
In the past two decades, Palma has transformed into a culinary paradise. Dining here is refreshingly laid-back. You won't need to book months ahead for the best spots; the pace is easygoing (Mallorcans tend to eat late), and you can often just stroll in. The charm of Palma lies in wandering its honey-stone streets, beginning your day with coffee and pastries at a sunny plaza, gradually transitioning to an evening of tapas and vermouth at a cozy vermutería, or enjoying an aperitivo in a quaint courtyard bar. No stress. No rush. No pretense.
Situated dramatically by the sea, Palma has always gazed out at the wider world. Now, global flavors fill Palma's kitchens. You can enjoy incredibly fresh sushi, ceviche paired with pisco sours, Brazilian barbecue, and classic French cuisine, alongside Michelin-starred restaurants where chefs like Marc Fosh and Adrián Quetglas focus on simplicity and celebrate Balearic flavors as bright and vibrant as the sunlight illuminating these streets.
Mama Carmen is an excellent choice for breakfast and brunch near Mercat de Santa Catalina © Mama CarmenBreakfast
Most locals in Palma typically save their appetite for lunch, and I often follow suit, opting for just a coffee and a pastry. And what pastries they have! Mallorcans truly shine in this area, and hunting down the city’s finest ensaïmada (a light, flaky, snail-shaped pastry dusted with icing sugar) can become quite the adventure. I recommend sticking with tradition and visiting long-standing family-run places like Ca'n Joan de S'Aigo, baking since 1700, or Forn del Santo Cristo, where you can find exquisite ensaïmades filled with everything from marzipan to honey, white chocolate, and dulce de leche.
For a heartier option, explore the vibrant stalls at Mercat de Santa Catalina before popping into Mama Carmen’s for brunch. This charming café exudes a warm, artsy vibe and offers smoothies, specialty coffees (don’t miss the pumpkin-spiced latte), granola bowls topped with seasonal fruits, cacao nibs, and edible flowers, impressive vegan eggs, and artisan-baked bread adorned with avocado, arugula, and feta—all beautifully presented on vintage crockery.
If I’m craving a NYC vibe, I head to Rosevelvet Bakery near La Rambla. They serve fantastic coffee, irresistible pistachio pastries, and brunch specials like pulled pork brioche with pickled onion and coriander, along with delicious huevos rancheros (Mexican-style eggs).
Lastly, the Swedes are making waves at the sourdough bakery Fika Farina, led by Mattias Mårtensson and his partner Jimmy Groth. Stop by for coffee, fresh-pressed orange juice that bursts with sunshine flavor, and some of the finest cinnamon buns, pains au chocolat, and open sandwiches you’ll find anywhere.
Nanø Coffee Lab is a beloved coffee destination located on Passeig des Born © Nano CoffeeCoffee
Palma’s coffee culture has taken off in recent years. The days of only café con leche (coffee with milk) and cortado (espresso with a hint of milk) are long gone. Now, conversations abound about third-wave coffee and single-origin beans.
Tucked away in a less touristy area, La Molienda is my go-to spot for a freshly roasted cup of coffee. With a focus on ethically sourced beans, this café serves some of the best brews in Palma. When the sun shines, locals gather on the terrace, enjoying beautifully crafted cappuccinos and refreshing cold brews.
Located right in the heart of the city, just off Plaça Major, Arabay has been thriving since 1952. Now a trendy café, roastery, and barista academy, it offers all organic and fair trade options. The aroma of coffee greets you at the door, and the skilled baristas can whip up anything from frappés to French presses.
Stroll down the tree-lined Passeig des Born, take a left down a quiet street, and you’ll discover Nanø Coffee Lab. This stylish café takes its coffee seriously. I love the cheerful sounds of the La Marzocco espresso machine, the cozy window seat (perfect for two), and what they proudly call ‘damn good coffee.’
Enjoy British-Balearic fusion at Market Kitchen © Jodi Hinds; R: Prawns and chips are always a winner at Mola © MolaLunch
Across from the food market in the vibrant Santa Catalina district, Mola offers a delightful escape with its airy blue-and-white décor and relaxed vibe. The menu features globally inspired sharing plates that highlight fresh ingredients. Don’t miss the zesty Thai salad and the perfectly crispy tempura prawns served with wasabi mayo—simply divine!
Just around the corner, you’ll find Market Kitchen, run by the passionate British duo Rob and Amber Kirby, who have truly embraced Palma’s culinary scene. With a background in cookbook writing and television, Rob now channels his creativity into British-Balearic fusion dishes within a quirky, vintage-style bistro. The London salt beef bagel paired with Mahón cheese, pickles, and homemade crisps is outstanding, as are their Sunday roasts, often accompanied by mimosas and blood-orange negronis.
Want something more central? Just a five-minute walk from Palma’s stunning Gothic cathedral, you’ll discover Forn de Sant Joan, a beautifully designed former 19th-century bakery featuring a minimalist aesthetic and a charming brick-walled cellar. Here, local Mallorcan ingredients shine in creative dishes like oysters with chilled almond soup and salmon roe, slow-cooked lamb with Idiazabal cheese and mint oil, and tuna tartare served with guacamole.
Experience the vibrant atmosphere at La Rosa Vermutería for an enjoyable aperitivo in the heart of the city © Sasha BradyAperitivo
As evening approaches, indulging in vermouth (a fortified wine infused with spices and herbs) is a popular ritual here. One of the most charming spots is the lively La Rosa Vermutería, where an excellent selection of red, white, and rosé vermouths is perfectly complemented by tasty tapas.
As the sun sets and the sky turns rosy, I relish the idea of a rooftop aperitivo. Palma has an increasing number of rooftop bars, but few can match the stunning views from the Sky Bar at Hotel Hostal Cuba, offering a breathtaking panorama of the Bay of Palma and the cathedral, which shines gold against the dusky blues. Their cocktails are fantastic, including a refreshing cava-spritzed Bellini and local favorites like the Maó Mule (Xoriguer gin with ginger beer, passion fruit, and orange bitters). For a classy vibe by the pool, the Singular Rooftop Terrace is also a great option. If you prefer something more budget-friendly, check out the Hotel Almudaina Sky Bar on the eighth floor, where the cityscape unfolds beneath you.
Adrián Quetglas is the perfect destination for an exceptional lunch or dinner © Arthur Le BracDinner
With Palma's sunny climate and vibrant atmosphere, I often find myself craving to tapear (enjoy tapas) as the sun sets over the Mediterranean, rather than opting for an extravagant dinner. For a fantastic tapas experience, La Bodeguilla tops the list, operated by two culinary-enthusiast brothers. The chic, monochrome interior features large pieces of jamón serrano hanging from above, and wine-barrel tables that highlight their impressive Spanish wine selection. The menu showcases island-inspired dishes, from tender suckling pig to vibrant scarlet shrimp drizzled with garlicky aioli.
For an unforgettable special occasion, I adore Adrián Quetglas for both lunch and dinner. This Michelin-starred gem, adorned with vertical gardens and fern patterns, offers a natural ambiance. Originally from Buenos Aires, Adrián returned to his Mallorcan roots as a passionate traveler and skilled chef, committed to ‘democratizing haute cuisine.’ His menu features delightfully simple creations like turbot with peas, Tramuntana lemon, and lemon verbena, as well as gazpacho topped with prawn carpaccio, pickled watermelon, and basil-almond ice cream. The five-course lunch is a steal at €55.
For a romantic evening, La Vermutería takes the cake. Nestled in the palm-dotted courtyard of Can Cera, this 17th-century mansion has been transformed into a charming boutique hideaway in Palma's historic center. It provides a captivating setting for vibrant cocktails and local wines, complemented by exquisite tapas that highlight the island's flavors, from Mallorcan cheeses to rich black pork sobrasada and smoked sea bass.
For a lively party atmosphere, head over to the sultry and stylish Vandal (watch for the graffiti at the entrance). The space sparkles with retro flair, packed with locals enjoying signature cocktails like the Sóller Tonic (a mix of gin, rosemary, and clementine marmalade). Chef Bernabé Caravotta, who hails from Argentina and Italy, serves up fun, palate-pleasing sharing plates such as ceviche cones topped with coconut foam, pisco Bloody Mary oysters, and slow-cooked lamb with labneh and Moroccan spices. Every bite is simply divine.
Cocktails served in the Great Gatsby-inspired speakeasy, Door 13 © Door 13Bar
On those scorching days when I want to dip my toes in the water while enjoying a sundowner and listening to DJs spin Ibiza-inspired tracks, I make my way to Anima Beach, just a stylish flip-flop away from the city center.
For an evening filled with speakeasy vibes, jazzy tunes, and extraordinary cocktails, I highly recommend Clandestino Cocktail Club. Each cocktail is a masterpiece; take the zesty matador, for example, which combines pisco, calvados, lemon, yuzu foam, and Inca bitters. If you want a touch of nostalgia, Abaco is a must-visit. Enter through the heavy wooden door of this lavish 17th-century mansion to discover a magical courtyard filled with fruits, flowers, and classical music, where you can sip a house cocktail (rum, whisky, Grand Marnier, and fruit juice) amid flickering candlelight, feeling like you've stepped onto a movie set.
If you're yearning for one last late-night drink, don’t miss Door 13, nestled within a maze of stone-walled streets near the old capuchin convent. Discover the secret code or ring the bell to enter this speakeasy cave adorned in Great Gatsby-inspired decor and bohemian flair. It's a fantastic place for creative cocktails like the Miró (gin, dry vermouth, Jalapeños, and burnt rosemary) while live bands play everything from flamenco to swing.
Evaluation :
5/5