Local Delights: Top Spots for Dining and Drinking in Toulouse, France

As the capital of Occitania in southern France, the charming city of Toulouse offers a richer gastronomic scene than many others across the nation.

Since the Visigoths established it as their capital in the 15th century, diverse influences have molded Occitan culture, most prominently reflected in its cuisine. With a bustling aerospace sector and a surge of tech firms, Toulouse embraces global culinary trends and diverse flavors.

In true French fashion, the foundation of Toulousain cuisine rests on locally sourced, high-quality ingredients. Indulge in blue-veined Roquefort cheese, black truffles from Occitania's forests, garlic as rosy as the city's famed pink buildings, and cocktails infused with the unique sweet flavor of violets that tantalize the palate.

Summarizing the vast culinary treasures of the city into just a few paragraphs is no small feat. However, since it must be done, here’s a curated list of my favorite places to eat and drink in Toulouse with friends.

Breakfast

Just a stone's throw from the Pont Neuf and the Fondation Bemberg art museum, Peacock is a perfect spot for a wholesome breakfast before embarking on your adventures. Their homemade pecan cookies are great for a light snack, but when I’m craving something nutritious, I go for the beautifully arranged granola and fresh fruit bowls. Saturday brunches here offer a wonderful atmosphere beneath Peacock’s vaulted ceilings.

For a market-style breakfast featuring exquisite cured meats and cheeses, head to Marché Victor Hugo or the stalls at Place du Capitole early on a Sunday. This is when I dive into the crowd to watch, learn, and uncover the best tastings from local artisans. On any other day, don’t miss Salon Cacao’T for their delicious kouign amann, a Breton-style pastry rich with caramelized butter and sugar.

Coffee

Once I discover a place that brews coffee just the way I like it, my adventurous side fades. That’s why Café Papiche is my go-to when I’m in Toulouse. However, there are plenty of other fantastic cafes in and around the Carmes neighborhood. For instance, Le Café Cerise boasts friendly staff and a charming mezzanine seating area. The Flower’s Café, located by the fountains at Place Roger Salengro, is perfect for a laid-back coffee break with great people-watching opportunities, and their pear crumble is a must-try.

Toulouse’s salons de thé (tea houses) offer delightful alternatives to its cafes, often featuring inviting atmospheres. Bapz, with its adorable wooden tables, warm lighting, and floral porcelain, is a cozy spot for catching up with friends. Just across the Garonne River, L’estaminot in Saint Cyprien—just two stops west on the Metro red line from Capitole—serves as a trendy tea room set within a library, complete with the freedom to chat as you please.

Lunch

The chefs at the five eateries on the upper level of Marché Victor Hugo utilize the market's fresh ingredients to craft beloved lunch dishes. While you might have to compete for a balcony table (or, if your French skills are sufficient, make a phone reservation in advance), these spots undoubtedly rank as the finest lunch destinations in the city. Personally, I favor Au Bon Graillou, known for its seasonal three-course menu typically priced around €24.

L’Oncle Pom takes a potato-centric approach: you first choose your preferred preparation method (such as gratin or French fries), and then select a meat or fish dish to complement your chosen style of potato. This culinary pragmatism is paired with a delightfully eclectic decor that adds to the charm.

For a quick bite, visit Rue Pargaminières, where you can enjoy Vietnamese-fusion dishes like bò bún (typically made with noodles, vegetables, and French-style beef) at great prices; I suggest either Chez Tran or Chez Nicô. As the day winds down, this street transforms into a popular late-night food spot for students, thanks to its affordable options and extended hours.

Aperitivo

Known for its rosy moniker, Toulouse also proudly bears the title of the City of Violets. These fragrant and delicate flowers, grown locally, have become part of the city’s culinary identity, particularly as liqueur de violette, which is frequently featured in cocktails crafted by inventive mixologists at bars like Le Loup Blanc. If you’re fond of this violet liqueur, you can purchase bottles from La Maison de la Violette, a charming shop located on a barge along the Canal du Midi.

The quintessential southern French drink—anise-flavored pastis served over ice—is a staple in Toulouse. At Chez Tonton, the famed happy hour (timing varies by day) features a buy-one-get-one-free offer on Ricard for just €2.50, all in a prime spot on the bustling Place Saint-Pierre.

Dinner

In Toulouse, I often indulge in comforting regional favorites like cassoulet, especially during the chillier months. This iconic Toulousain dish features local sausage and duck confit, slow-cooked in its own fat, all melded in a savory stew with white beans, lamb, and pork belly. Due to its popularity, cassoulet is available at various price ranges. For a Michelin-star experience, make sure to reserve a spot at Restaurant Emile (book ahead for terrace seating). If you prefer a place for some people-watching, the charming belle époque bistro Le Bibent, located on the central Place du Capitole, is a great choice.

Toulouse's culinary scene surprisingly caters well to vegan and vegetarian diets. You can satisfy your appetite completely at the all-you-can-eat buffet at La Faim des Haricots, where the selection changes daily and often features homemade savory tarts.

Bar

As a part-time musician, I’m drawn to venues with great music. La Tireuse, with its rock classics and 20 beers on tap, truly stands out. Located on Rue Pargaminières, just a minute east of Place Saint-Pierre, it’s surrounded by pubs and bars that buzz from apéro-o’clock until late. Long-established spots like Le Bar Basque and Chez Tonton also add to the lively atmosphere.

Fat Cat offers a completely different atmosphere; it’s a chic lounge known for its exceptional cocktails. I often stop by when there’s live jazz. For a taste of a traditional French bar, especially with someone unfamiliar with France, Au Père Louis embodies authenticity. If you're looking to sample local wine, Le 5 Wine Bar is the perfect spot to enjoy a bottle of Braucol Rouge from the nearby Gaillac region, one of France's earliest wine-producing areas.