The perfect long weekend in Marseille

Marseille is unlike any other city in France, or anywhere else in the world for that matter. As a crossroads between Europe and Africa, this vibrant port is infused with a rich diversity shaped by 2,600 years of migration. With its urban edge and stunning natural landscapes, Marseille provides a dual vacation experience that delights both city enthusiasts and beach lovers.

I visited eight years ago to research Marseille for an article. Captivated by its striking contrasts, I decided to relocate here the following year (beware, you might find yourself enchanted as well). Read on for my curated recommendations and useful tips for a long weekend in Marseille.

When to visit: Arrive on a Thursday to maximize your long weekend

How to reach the airport: The shuttle bus (navette) is the quickest (30 minutes) and most affordable (10€) choice. It takes you directly to the city center's train station.

Getting around the city: Walking is the best way to discover Marseille. Use public transport to cover more distance. The city's electric bikes, Le Velo, are perfect for heading to the beach. From April to September, ferry boats operate to Marseille’s southern and northern ends, Les Goudes and L’Estaque.

Where to stay: Accommodations in Marseille reflect its diversity. The boutique hotel Bords de Mer offers seaside rooms overlooking the Mediterranean. The budget-friendly Pension Edelweiss feels like a stay in a friend's charming vintage apartment. Meanwhile, Hôtel la Résidence Vieux-Port provides stunning views of the Vieux-Port.

What to bring: Pack casual attire and comfortable shoes for walking. Don't forget a swimsuit and sunscreen during the summer months.

Friday

Morning: My go-to café is La Caravelle at Vieux-Port. Whether you're seated on the cozy balcony or inside among vintage maps and nautical decor, this former sailor's bar is a delightful place for coffee, a croissant, and jus d’orange pressée (fresh-squeezed orange juice). For digital nomads, it's also a great spot to work.

The café’s perspective of Notre Dame de la Garde will inspire you to visit Marseille’s highest point. You can take a bus or hike up to the “Bonne Mère,” the basilica’s affectionate nickname due to its golden statue of the Virgin and Child. Admire the dazzling mosaics and intricate wooden boats inside, and enjoy the panoramic view outside that showcases the city's expanse.

How to spend your day: Begin your adventure in Noailles, the vibrant multicultural district known as the “belly of Marseille.” The variety of food stalls here showcases the significant impact of immigrants on local cuisine. I love savoring Tunisian leblebi at Chez Yassine. Browse for unique items at France’s oldest hardware store, Maison Empereur, pick up Mediterranean delicacies at Épicerie Idéal, or find North African home goods at Jiji la Palme d’Or.

Dinner: Indulge in a meat-focused, farm-to-table dinner at Bouillon. Chef Auregan Dean represents the new generation of female chefs shaping the city’s culinary landscape. Their adjacent wine bar, Carnage, features a selection of natural wines curated by Mathieu Zurcher. I’m fortunate to live just around the corner.

After dark: Make your way to the nearby graffiti-adorned Cours Julien for a drink in the open air beneath the trees. If you're a music lover, don’t miss the concerts and DJ events at Espace Julien and Makeda.

Saturday

Morning: Outdoor markets are a staple of French culture. Gather some cheese, fruit, and charcuterie for a picnic, or sample local delights like panisses (chickpea fritters) and fried sardines at the Marché des Reformés. I also love the nearby Marché des Argonautes, an indoor gourmet market adorned with a breathtaking stained-glass ceiling. Continue east to the impressive Palais Longchamp, which houses the lesser-known Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de Marseille.

How to spend the day: The Calanques National Park features stunning limestone cliffs that plunge into the Mediterranean. You can either hike through these breathtaking landscapes (the 3-hour roundtrip trek to Croix Marseilleveyre offers stunning views) or explore the turquoise coves by boat. Don’t forget to pack a picnic or enjoy fresh fish at Chez Paul in the charming fishing village of Les Goudes.

Dinner: To relax in Les Goudes, indulge in a “sunset apéro,” the southern French version of happy hour, at 20,000 Lieus Sous la Biére (a clever nod to Jules Verne). Then, take a taxi to the family-run Chez Zé, where you can enjoy local specialties like wood-fired pizza and supions à l’ail (garlic squid) on the terrace shaded by trees. Remember to bring cash.

After dark: Marseille truly comes alive at night, especially during the summer. Borderline hosts outdoor parties and festive boat cruises, while the Friche la Belle de Mai cultural center offers a variety of DJs, films, and dance events year-round.

Sunday

Morning: Coffee first made its way to France through the port of Marseille in 1664. Today, a new wave of local roasters is transforming the city into a coffee hub. One of the pioneers, Deep, is favored by coffee lovers worldwide. I enjoy sipping my latte while people-watching from the patio.

How to spend the day: With many shops closed on Sundays, it’s the ideal time for sightseeing. Begin your adventure at Fort St-Jean, a 17th-century fortress featuring turreted towers and symbolic gardens. Don't miss the video exhibit under the archways that narrates the history of the city.

Cross the footbridge to reach the Musée des Civilisations d’Europe et de la Méditerranée, where you can explore rotating exhibitions inspired by both sides of the Mediterranean. The building itself is a masterpiece, a modern concrete structure influenced by ancient Mesopotamian designs. Access to the rooftop and exterior walkways is free. If you have a little time before your departure, consider taking a cab to La Cité Radieuse, Le Corbusier’s iconic Brutalist housing complex that is still in use today. The tourist office also offers guided tours in English.

Say farewell to the city before catching your train or flight. Already thinking about your next visit to Marseille? This weekend's itinerary is just the beginning. Discover more things to see and do in Marseille.