Local Flavors: the top spots for dining and drinks in Chiang Mai

I first visited Chiang Mai in May 1992 to see a high school friend who married a local professor at Chiang Mai University. They introduced me to the local cuisine and connected me with their friends and family who warmly welcomed me.

I was captivated. I returned every year until launching the first Pok Pok restaurant in Portland, Oregon, in 2005. Over the years, I opened and closed dozens of restaurants, authored several cookbooks, and traveled the globe promoting the culinary culture of Thailand, particularly that of Chiang Mai and its nearby areas.

In the past 30 years, much has changed in the land of Lanna, yet one thing remains unchanged... Chiang Mai is still one of the world's premier dining destinations.

Breakfast

In Thailand, breakfast dishes often overlap with lunch or dinner offerings, so it’s best to abandon ideas of pancakes and scrambled eggs in the morning. My top choice for a morning meal is the long-established family-run Phatom, known for its rice porridge accompanied by various Chinese and Thai dishes like jap chai (fried sweet Chinese sausage and braised tofu). For some of the finest Northern Thai laap, head to Laap Dii Khom Khon Yong, located just off the first ring road. You can't go wrong with laap muu suk (the cooked pork variety) alongside dishes such as jaw phak kat (greens soup), kaeng awm (beef shin stew), and grilled pork. This is a place where a local might take you! If you absolutely crave a Western breakfast, The Larder is a good option.

Coffee

Thailand has emerged as a hotspot for specialty coffee, with Chiang Mai leading the way, boasting hundreds of cafes that serve locally sourced and roasted beans. My favorite spot is Akha Ama in the old town, where skilled baristas prepare the finest espresso drinks using direct trade coffee from the Akha community in Chiang Rai province. Just outside the city center, Flo is a local hipster favorite, situated in a wooden shophouse over a century old.

Lunch

Nestled in the heart of the old city, Yok Fa Pochana serves the most delicious phat si ew (stir-fried noodles) in a massive wok over an intense flame, sticking to a recipe that hasn’t changed in 50 years. Don’t miss Naam Ngiao Phayao, where English is sparse, but the welcoming elderly couple running it will make you feel right at home. The highlight here is the namesake dish: fresh rice vermicelli in a brothy, sour, umami-packed curry with pork ribs, soft blood tofu, and the dried pistil of the dawk ngiaw (red cotton tree flower). It’s a signature dish of the region, and theirs is among the best around.

Khao Soi Prince offers an outstanding rendition of what has become the signature dish of Chiang Mai: khao soi (egg noodle soup in curry broth). Though it requires a 20km drive to the Maejo University area, the trip is worthwhile! The Muslim owner, a third-generation chef, still handmakes his noodles and upholds a family recipe that has been cherished for over forty years. Be sure to order the khao soi neua (beef noodles in curry), or for a twist, try the phat sen khao soi (stir-fried egg noodles) also featuring beef!

Aperitivo

Nestled in the bustling chaos of Moonmuang Rd, right across from the moat, Kafe 1985 is a laid-back, classic pub where backpackers, expats, locals, and savvy food enthusiasts converge at sunset for refreshing beers, people-watching, and delicious snacks like neua daet diaw (sun-dried beef jerky) and the quintessential naem sii khrong muu (sour rice cured pork ribs), which are fried and paired with fresh chilies, ginger, and peanuts. For a more upscale experience, the rooftop bar at the riverside Anantara features a happy hour menu with a stunning view of the sunset over the Ping River.

Dinner

Lunchtime in Chiang Mai offers some of the best meals, but there are hidden gems for dinner too—just be sure to eat before 9pm. A standout new restaurant is Maadae Slow Fish Kitchen, which requires reservations and serves sustainably sourced seafood and local ingredients infused with traditional Thai flavors. Don't miss the dessert featuring naturally harvested sago pearls in creamy coconut. Rasik Local Kitchen also offers a similar atmosphere and is a top dining spot in town, especially known for its delicious curries.

Mitmai is a convenient walk-in spot with an extensive menu of Yunnanese cuisine. Be sure to try anything with Yunnan ham and definitely order the cucumber salad with pork chin! A short 25-minute drive north takes you to Kong Kham, a Northern Thai restaurant known for its solid cooking and incredibly affordable prices. Don’t miss the laap plaa piak (wet fish laap), saa phak ruam (a distinctive northern dish with hand-crushed raw veggies, sour herbs, tomatoes, and cooked fish), and the popular kaeng hang leh (Burmese pork belly curry).

Bar

Maybe I’m just getting older, but these days I seek a laid-back spot for a well-crafted cocktail with some jazz in the background. San in the Night Bazaar area offers just the right atmosphere. Ascend to the semi-hidden wooden-paneled room on the second floor, where a bell on the wall calls a server to bring you a perfectly crafted daiquiri, a glass of Japanese whisky, or a fine wine. If you're feeling a bit hungry, there’s a small menu of izakaya dishes available. During peak season (November to February), it's a good idea to call ahead to book a table upstairs. For a genuine speakeasy experience, look for The White Rabbit, tucked away up a flight of slightly sketchy steps in an old shophouse near Chang Phuak gate. This dim, inviting bar serves creative cocktails featuring Thai ingredients and global spirits. It may be hard to locate, so don’t hesitate to ask a local if you get lost. Enjoy!

Here are some expert tips to assist you in planning your trip to Chiang Mai:

Keep these top experiences in mind when you're ready to create your itinerary. Familiarize yourself with what you need to know before your journey. Discover the best time to visit for fewer crowds or better weather. Navigate like a local with these suggestions for getting around. Save some cash with these free activities in Chiang Mai.