Local Flavors: top spots to dine and unwind in Bangkok

When arriving in a new city, people often speak of experiencing ‘love at first sight.’ However, that might not be your reaction upon stepping into Bangkok.

I can attest to this, as my arrival in 1995 left me utterly astounded. The roads were choked with traffic, sidewalks teeming with vendors, and the entire city buzzed with life around the clock.

Navigating the food scene was no small feat. In fact, I felt so daunted that I embarked on writing a street food guide – which eventually grew into three guides – to help others find their way to Thailand’s best stalls.

The city remains largely unchanged since then, although I have evolved: I am now a dedicated food writer who can't imagine living anywhere else. Bangkok requires a bit of time and a dash of courage to fully uncover its hidden gems.

Absolutely worth it.

Breakfast Time

My favorite breakfast haunt is Guaythiew Pik Gai Sainampung, a chicken noodle shop tucked away in an alley between Sukhumvit Sois 18 and 20. It’s easy to spot as it’s the only place on the street that isn’t a hostess bar. While the chicken-wing noodles are popular, my go-to is the yentafo (pink) noodles, a delightful Hakka-style dish that combines tartness and spice with red fermented tofu.

When I'm feeling adventurous, I head to the Old Town, specifically to Kope Hya Tai Kee, a classic coffee shop where older gentlemen gather to exchange amulets. The weekend lines can be long, so it's wise to arrive right at opening time, 7am. The standout dish here is the kai kata (“egg in a pan”), a local twist on the Vietnamese-inspired “American breakfast” created for US soldiers.

Coffee Culture

Sadly, traditional Thai coffee is fading away. It emerged partly due to the high cost of coffee beans, leading to the addition of spices like cardamom and sesame seeds. Authentic Thai coffee shops can be recognized by their vintage “stockings” used for straining. These coffee drinks typically feature condensed milk and are served iced in plastic bags with straws. Nearby Pa Tong Go Savoey in Chinatown, one vendor offers deep-fried crullers to enjoy alongside the coffee.

Lunchtime Delights

Many believe that Bangkok’s Old Town is just Khao Sarn Rd, the Grand Palace, and Wat Pho, but it also encompasses Samsen Rd, where a charming fresh-food market operates in the mornings. Close by is Krua Apsorn, a fantastic Thai eatery that excels in lunch offerings. The chef, Auntie Dang (named after her sister Apsorn), is renowned for her stir-fried crabmeat with long beans, lotus-stem curry, and my personal favorite, deep-fried chicken wings.

If you're short on lunch time, make your way to Zaap Wan near the Thai Cultural Center. This spot specializes in Northeastern Thai (Isan) cuisine, featuring dishes like green papaya salad and larb. They also serve a delectable chicken that blends the flavors of grilled Isan chicken and Chinese BBQ. Don’t forget to order sticky rice to complement your meal. In the evenings, just behind the Esplanade Mall across the street, the Ratchada Night Market is a lively place to explore with friends.

Happy Hour Vibes

I adore the open-air dining space at Samsara Cafe & Meal at any hour, but dusk is my favorite, as it’s located right by the river where you can watch the sun set over the Chao Phraya, painting the sky in hues of purple. There are no elaborate cocktails or pricey champagnes here—just beer. With a stunning view of the water and boats drifting by, that’s all you truly need. If you’re visiting during the rainy season, double-check if the cafe is open, as the riverbanks often overflow.

Evening Meal

You might be surprised to learn that Bangkok hosts the world's second-largest Japanese expat community (after Brazil), leading to outstanding Japanese dining options. One style that my Japanese friends particularly enjoy is yakitori, where every part of the chicken is grilled and generously coated in sauce or salt. They often claim that Thai chicken surpasses the quality of chicken in Japan. Among the finest spots for yakitori is Shirokane Torit-Tama, where the dinner course features a skewer of chicken fallopian tubes, complete with the egg still attached! The sake here is also exceptional.

For those craving Thai cuisine, be sure to visit Charmgang Curry Shop in the trendy Talat Noi area. Operated by three Thai chefs, Charmgang offers delicious and inventive dishes while providing an open view of the compact kitchen in the back. The atmosphere is vibrant and inviting, reminiscent of a colorful 1990s dorm room. The menu frequently changes, but if you spot the “scallop cracker” appetizer, don’t hesitate to order it. There's a long communal table for walk-ins.

Bar Scene

What I love most about Mutual Bar is that it’s a hidden gem you have to know about. Although there's a sign at the top of Sukhumvit 24, you won’t find any visible window hinting that the bar is open. It’s only after you take the somewhat shabby elevator ride up to the fifth floor that you discover – yes – something exciting is happening here, and it looks pretty appealing.

The space is dominated by a large bar, often bustling with patrons; live music fills the air on many evenings. That’s why I usually head straight to the cozy room in the back, where only the desperate or older folks (like me) choose to sit. The warm lighting feels like a scene from an old movie, and all the drinks come highly recommended, especially the coffee-inspired Vivid Midnight.