Looking to embark on a long hike along Scotland’s east coast? Here’s your guide.

The eastern coast north of Inverness is a lesser-known part of far north Scotland that many travelers rush through while navigating the North Coast 500, eager to reach the dramatic landscapes of the west.

Their oversight. While its allure may not be as immediately apparent as other regions, the east coast offers rich rewards for those willing to take their time – ideal for leisurely exploration. Best of all, you’ll often find its serene spots virtually to yourself.

On my initial brief visit, I was struck by the vast, ever-shifting skies, hidden fishing villages, and stretches of golden sands, compelling me to return for a more relaxed experience.

In an area of Scotland often deemed 'remote,' I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the east coast is quite accessible by public transport, with buses from Inverness traversing the entire region and trains available along parts of the route as well.

I kicked off my adventure in the coastal village of Golspie, a two-hour train ride north of Inverness. A six-mile walk took me past the stunning Dunrobin Castle, an Iron Age broch (a unique round tower found in Scotland), and sunbathing seals, leading me to Brora, known for its beautiful beach. From there, I hopped on a bus to Wick, using this historic fishing town as a base to explore the rugged coastline at a relaxed pace.

My final destination was John O’Groats, often bustling with tourists arriving by bus, which can feel contrary to the spirit of slow travel. However, it served as a fantastic starting point for hiking along the north coast to explore the shell-strewn beaches, seabird colonies, and dramatic sea stacks around Duncansby.

Traveling this way does present its challenges, particularly due to the limited transport options, usually just a few services per day. Yet, with thoughtful planning, you can seamlessly connect coastal hikes with relaxed bus and train journeys, immersing yourself in the captivating scenery of sea and sky.

Here’s how to organize a journey along the eastern coast of far northern Scotland.

Step 1: Determine your route

Align bus and train schedules with your hiking plans.

Start by checking the bus and train schedules to understand where public transportation can take you. Buses service many more villages and towns along the east coast compared to trains, which veer inland between Helmsdale and Wick.

Next, explore the John O’Groats Trail: this 147-mile walking path from Inverness to John O’Groats closely follows the coastline, passing by golden beaches, rocky coves, and dramatic cliffs. The trail's website conveniently divides it into manageable sections, allowing you to plan a day's hike between two bus stops—just keep in mind that the path's quality and difficulty can vary significantly along the way.

Step 2: Choose your travel dates

Be mindful of Scotland’s unpredictable weather.

Weather in the Highlands is famously capricious, so you might begin a day of hiking in heavy rain and finish it under clear skies, possibly leaving you sunburned (consider this your nudge to pack sunscreen).

Spring and autumn are widely regarded as the prime times to visit; however, the charm of midsummer, when the sun lingers in the sky, is hard to resist. During my visit then, I enjoyed extended twilight hours until the sun finally dipped below the horizon. Even in the peak of summer, the trails often remain uncrowded, though accommodation prices can be significantly higher.

Step 3: Revisit those timetables

Ensure you don’t miss your return transport.

After finalizing your itinerary, check the timetables again to confirm everything is feasible—Sundays, for instance, are often better spent walking or resting. The freedom of not needing to book transport in advance offers some flexibility, but it’s crucial to know when the next bus or train departs to avoid missing your ride.

Step 4: Plan for more time than you anticipate

After all, this is about slow travel.

It’s tempting to believe you can fit a lot into one journey, but if you overestimate your capacity, you may find yourself regretting not having that extra day or even a few additional hours for an unplanned or extended stop.

I allowed extra time to hike Ben Bhraggie in Golspie, snorkel with the Sutherland Adventure Company in Brora, and look for puffins at Duncansby. However, I still could have used more time to explore the fantastic places people recommended along the way.

Step 5: Pack smart

Bring plenty of layers and your own meals.

A good pair of walking shoes, a lightweight waterproof jacket, and ample layers are essential for navigating the unpredictable Highland weather. Once you arrive, dining options may be limited, so consider packing a take-away lunch at the start of your day (or check if your accommodation can provide one) and stock up on snacks whenever you find a supermarket.

The coastline is also a fantastic spot for wildlife watching, with orcas, whales, and dolphins in the waters, as well as puffins and other nesting seabirds during the summer months—making binoculars or a telephoto lens useful. Fortunately, you can leave your midge repellent at home, as the east coast is generally free of those pesky biting insects.

If I had the chance to do it all over again…

I’d include even more walking. The coastline was far more diverse than I expected, and there’s something unbeatable about feeling like the sole explorer in these expansive landscapes. I’d also take my own advice and allow for more time: a week barely scratched the surface, revealing countless other places I still wanted to explore.