Madeira: The Island of Eternal Spring

With its constant spring weather, towering mountains rising from the deep blue sea, a bounty of exotic fruits, fresh seafood, and unique wines, Madeira is a paradise.

Madeira seems to have everything, but the 'pearl of the Atlantic' has long struggled with a bit of an image problem.

In the 1950s, a British friend of American author Paul Bowles described it as a 'dreary, stuffy little place.' 'Only elderly ladies go there,' he said.

Despite this, Bowles, a seasoned traveler of North Africa, was captivated by Madeira. Though it's still a top destination for older travelers, this tranquil island, just a few hours' flight from London or Paris, is now attracting younger tourists thanks to affordable new flights.

Here are the must-see experiences when you visit:

Dipping into the dark lava pools

On Madeira, the volcanic lava pools in Porto Moniz offer a truly unique experience, located on the far northwest edge of the island, far from the bustling capital, Funchal.

Not long ago, reaching these remote areas required hours of winding mountain roads. Today, a network of highways and tunnels makes the journey possible in just 50 minutes.

While the construction of these roads has sparked concerns about its environmental effects, it has made the island’s farthest corners easily accessible to visitors.

In Porto Moniz, the collision of Atlantic waves with ancient volcanic eruptions has created jagged black lava formations along the coast.

These natural formations have been transformed into one of the most stunning and unusual swimming spots in the world. Over 4,500 square yards of tranquil, clear saltwater pools are protected from the crashing waves by the lava barriers.

Hiking the levadas through the Laurisilva Forest

A vast network of trails follows over 1,300 miles (2,092 kilometers) of narrow stone irrigation channels, known as levadas, that wind through the island’s mountainous terrain.

Many of these trails lead into the Laurisilva Forest, a remnant of the semi-tropical vegetation that once covered the island before the Portuguese explorers arrived in 1419.

One of the most picturesque is the Levada do Caldeirao Verde, which stretches four miles through lush forests and dramatic ocean vistas, eventually reaching a clearing with a stunning 300-foot (91 meters) waterfall.

Embracing tropical delights at the farmers' market

Vibrant flower vendors in traditional rainbow skirts. Fishmongers brandishing machetes to slice massive tuna. Funchal's Mercado dos Lavradores is a sensory feast. While the fish is incredible, the fresh fruit steals the show.

Almost anything thrives here. The island’s bananas are bursting with flavor, and there's an astonishing variety of passion fruits. You'll also find papayas, custard apples, and an odd fruit called monstera deliciosa—resembling a phallic pine cone, it tastes like a mix of banana and pineapple.

Basking in the sun on Porto Santo

Madeira’s biggest drawback? No beaches. That’s where Porto Santo steps in.

Just a couple of hours by ferry or 15 minutes by plane, Porto Santo, Madeira’s 'little sister', offers a six-mile stretch of golden sand and crystal-clear waters. With a population of 5,000, the island comes alive in summer as locals from Madeira flock over to enjoy the sun.

Out of season, the landscape of rugged, conical hills and the tranquil harbor town remains largely undisturbed. Here, you can even visit the former home of Christopher Columbus, who famously married the governor's daughter.

Indulging in scabbard fish sandwiches at Snack Bar Coca Cola

At the market, it’s hard to miss the eerie sight of scabbard fish: long, jet-black creatures with bulging eyes and menacing, wolf-like jaws.

Black scabbard fish is Madeira's beloved seafood. Its firm, white flesh appears on menus everywhere, often paired with fried bananas. At the marble-clad Snack Bar Coca Cola, just next to the market, you can try a legendary sandwich, where scabbard fish marinated in onion and vinegar is tucked inside a bolo do caco, a traditional Madeiran flatbread.

It’s best enjoyed with a cold glass of Coral beer, brewed right on the island.

Snack Bar Coca Cola, Rua Queimada de Cima 48, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

Savoring Michelin-starred dining in Madeira

The exquisite dishes here are equally impressive. Chef Júlio Pereira crafts delicacies like black scabbard fish tempura served with creamy limpet rice and tamarillo ketchup, or a passion fruit brûlée accompanied by apple and basil ice cream.

Madeira’s culinary scene is rapidly gaining international acclaim. Il Gallo d'Oro at Funchal's Cliff Bay Hotel earned its second Michelin star in the 2017 guide, while the elegant William restaurant at Reid’s Hotel received its first.

For an unforgettable dining experience, head to Fajã dos Padres for lunch.

This unique restaurant is perched on a strip of land at the base of cliffs towering 820 feet (250 meters). It's accessible only by boat or a thrilling cable car ride. From the palm-shaded tables, you can enjoy views over a pebbled beach.

The surrounding gardens are a source of fresh, organic fruits and vegetables. Local fishermen deliver their daily catch, which Chef Amândio Gonçalves transforms into dishes like grilled limpets, salted tuna, or parrot fish grilled with sweet potato.

Fajã was once a peaceful retreat for Jesuit priests, who produced sweet Malmsey wines to pass the time. Today, modern travelers looking for true seclusion can stay in one of seven beautifully restored cottages at the base of the cliffs.

Il Gallo d’Oro, Estrada Monumental 147, Funchal, Portugal; +351 291 707 700

Fajã dos Padres, Estr. Padre Antônio Dinis Henrique 1, Quinta Grande, Portugal; ++351 291 944 538

Staying at a quinta

While Funchal offers plenty of large, oceanfront hotels, an alternative is staying in a quinta. These stately country estates, often tied to the island’s wine heritage, offer a more intimate experience.

A collection of these historic homes in the hills above the coast have been transformed into charming boutique residences, surrounded by lush gardens and full of old-world elegance.

Among the finest is Casa Velha do Palheiro, once a count’s hunting lodge. There's also Quinta Jardins do Lago, once the residence of a British general who defended the island from Napoleon. Or Quinta do Estreito, perched high above the picturesque fishing town of Camara de Lobos.

Casa Velha do Palheiro, Rua da Estalagem 23 Palheiro Golf Sao Goncalo, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 790 350

Quinta Jardins do Lago, Rua Dr. Joao Lemos Gomes 29 São Pedro, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 750 100

Driving along the winding, scenic roads

In the 1990s, a public works surge led to the construction of a network of tunnels, allowing new highways to drastically cut travel times around the island.

Some of the old, hair-raising cliff-edge roads, fed by occasional waterfalls, have now been closed. However, Madeira still offers plenty of exciting road trips.

Heading west from Funchal, you'll embark on a thrilling ride along steep slopes, past charming villages, and along rugged Atlantic coastlines. The ever-changing scenery is mesmerizing.

In Calheta’s banana plantations, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into Africa; just a few miles further, the grassy clifftops at Ponta do Pargo evoke Ireland, while the misty peaks around Pico Ruivo look like something straight out of a Chinese landscape painting.

Exploring Funchal’s Flemish roots

In the 15th century, Madeira was a major sugarcane producer, sending its sweet goods to northern Europe.

Merchants from Antwerp and Bruges were among the island’s top clients, which explains why Funchal became a treasure trove of art by Flemish masters like Dieric Bouts and Gerard David.

Explore these masterpieces at Funchal’s Museu de Arte Sacra or within the ornate Gothic cathedral. For a modern touch, visit the innovative Mudas arts center or the vibrant graffiti-covered doorways in Funchal’s historic district.

Museu de Arte Sacra, R. do Bpo. 21, Funchal, Portugal; +351 291 228 900

Nun’s retreat

Curral das Freiras is a village nestled within a dramatic amphitheater of jagged peaks. Its name stems from nuns (freiras) who sought refuge there from marauding pirates. Beyond the stunning landscape, the village is famous for its chestnuts, harvested from the surrounding forested slopes.

During the harvest season, chestnuts are roasted on the streets or served at dinner tables in dishes like chestnut soup, roasted baby goat with chestnuts, and chestnut pudding, all complemented by a shot of chestnut liqueur.

Mastering the art of distinguishing Bual from Malmsey

Madeira wine is enjoying a resurgence, particularly in the U.S. Sales have soared, with rare vintages fetching thousands of dollars.

The finest Madeira wines come from single grape varieties, including dry Sercials and Verdelhos, ideal as aperitifs, as well as the richer Buals and Malmseys, which pair wonderfully with the island's signature molasses cakes. Atmospheric wine lodges in Funchal offer tastings of these exceptional varieties.

Roasting over open flames

Despite the abundance of seafood in its waters, the islanders' beloved dish is unaedly meat-focused.

Espetada is made by skewering chunks of beef seasoned with garlic and salt, using sticks carved from laurel trees, and then grilling the meat over hot coals.

The best espetada can be found in the hilltop village of Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, home to popular spots like Santo Antonio, Viola, and As Vides, where it's served alongside fried cornmeal cubes and oregano-seasoned fries.

Restaurante Santo Antonio, Estrada João Gonçalves Zarco No. 656, Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, Madeira 9325-087, Portugal; +351 291 910 360

Viola, Estrada João Gonçalves 596, Câmara de Lobos, Madeira 9325, Portugal; +351 291 945 601

As Vides, Rua da Achada 17, 9325-017 Câmara de Lobos, Madeira 9325, Portugal; +351 291 945 322

Testing your courage at the Cabo Girão skywalk

While other spots in Ireland and Norway may challenge Madeira's claim to having Europe's tallest sea cliff, the true thrill is stepping onto Cabo Girão's glass platform, where you'll be staring 1,900 feet straight down at the crashing Atlantic waves below.

The cape is a towering slab of black rock that casts its shadow over Câmara de Lobos. The sunsets here are absolutely breathtaking.

Delighting in the flowers

The Jardim Botânico da Madeira is the island's premier botanical garden, boasting over 3,000 species of plants in a lush, vibrant setting.

Among its treasures are the island's own unique plants, like the vivid pink Madeira geraniums and the striking blue pride of Madeira. The gardens are spread across a quinta built by a British family in the 1880s, offering stunning panoramic views over Funchal.

Botanical Gardens Madeira, Caminho do Meio- Bom Sucesso, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 771 310

Sipping poncha

Madeira may be known for its wines, but the islanders also enjoy a strong drink called poncha. Traditionally, it’s made with aguardente de cana (local rum), lemon juice, and honey, though variations with passionfruit, tangerine, or other fruits are popular as well.

While ice is optional, freshly made poncha always beats the mass-produced bottled versions. Head to Bar Number Two on the Camara de Lobos quayside to sample the best.

Bar Number Two, Rua Imperatriz Dona Amelia, 154, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 230 676

Lapas at Doca do Cavacas

For seafood enthusiasts, few experiences rival dining under a starry sky with the ocean at your feet. Situated along Funchal's seafront, Restaurante Doca do Cavacas offers just that.

Expect dishes like lapas – tender limpets grilled with butter and garlic; bodiao, a delicious red-scaled fish; and a homemade passionfruit pudding to finish.

Doca do Cavacas, Rua da Ponta da Cruz Ponta de Cruz, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 762 057

A walk above the clouds

When Funchal is cloaked in clouds, take a trip north to Pico do Arieiro. The challenging ascent may have cars struggling to shift past third gear, but the reward is a breathtaking plateau bathed in sunlight, with jagged peaks rising from a sea of fluffy white clouds. The vistas stretch from the wild north coast to Funchal below.

Racing downhill in a basket

A classic Funchal tradition dating back to the 1850s. At the foot of the beautiful Monte church, groups of strong men in white trousers and straw hats relax among stacks of handmade toboggans crafted from reeds.

The toboggan riders grip their sleds, steering them as they race downhill toward Funchal, reaching speeds of up to 40 miles per hour (64 kilometers per hour).

Dining with the ferret

The name 'Quinta do Furão' might seem unexpected for one of the finest hotels along Madeira’s northern coastline.

This former aristocratic residence enjoys a prime location, perched atop cliffs with sweeping views over vineyards and the vast ocean beyond.

The word 'Furão' means ferret – a nickname given to a previous owner. The hotel’s restaurant serves exquisite dishes, offering both local flavors and innovative twists, such as tuna crusted with sesame or quail marinated in sugarcane molasses and Madeira wine.

Quinta Do Furão Hotel, Achada do Gramacho, Santana, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 570100

Unleash your inner CR7

Arguably the greatest footballer in history (sorry, Messi), Cristiano Ronaldo hails from Funchal.

Born in 1985, Ronaldo began his journey playing for local youth teams in Funchal before rising to global superstardom with Manchester United and Real Madrid.

Madeira has honored its favorite son with a towering bronze statue along the harbor promenade. In 2013, the island also opened the CR7 museum, where visitors can admire his iconic No. 7 jerseys and other personal memorabilia.

In 2016, Ronaldo launched his first collaboration with the Pestana hotel group, opening the Pestana CR7 Hotel. Situated by the harbor, it offers guests a glimpse into his luxurious lifestyle, featuring a personalized fitness area, an outdoor Jacuzzi, state-of-the-art technology, and a rooftop infinity pool with stunning views of Funchal’s harbor.

CR7 Museum, Princesa Dona Amelia, 10, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal; +351 291 639 880

CR7 Hotel, Av. Sá Carneiro / Praça do Mar, 9000-017, Funchal, Portugal; +351 291 140 480