Meet the chef revolutionizing Portuguese cuisine

Throughout Lisbon's historic heart, you'll find countless 'tascas'—charming, hole-in-the-wall taverns adorned with colorful blue tiles.

Each offers a similar menu: salted cod or sardines with boiled potatoes, rich Douro wine, and indulgent desserts that embody the essence of Portugal for travelers.

But there's only one spot where you can taste an edible 'stone' made from cod, or velvety liver mousse, or a tuna bouquet from the Azores, garnished with flowers. Not to mention butter infused with local sausage, barnacles paired with pickled strawberries, or a revamped Portuguese cozido stew, reduced to a single cabbage leaf with a paste of concentrated flavors.

That's because there's only one Jose Avillez.

Challenging the status quo

In a small country where one individual can still spark change—Portugal, with a population of just 10 million despite its 10 centuries of history—this one chef is at the forefront of revolutionizing the nation’s culinary identity.

At 37, Avillez is the mastermind behind Belcanto, the first restaurant in Lisbon to earn two Michelin stars.

In Portugal, he’s a household name, thanks to his six restaurants, four cookbooks, daily radio tips, and a hit TV series.

“Sometimes I dream of being a solitary chef, working in an unknown kitchen,” he confides to Dinogo. “But my friends keep encouraging me, telling me I’m the one who can make it happen.”

With his dark beard and chiseled features, evoking the spirit of Portugal’s seafaring explorers, he’s singlehandedly guiding the nation’s traditional cuisine into the realm of contemporary fine dining.

“Our ancestors navigated the world,” Avillez reflects. “Now it’s our turn to present the fresh gastronomic identity of our country to the globe.”

Although deeply proud of Portugal’s Mediterranean culinary heritage, which he believes remains “grossly underestimated,” Avillez knows that Portugal’s culinary innovation is still playing catch-up compared to Spain’s larger, more experimental scene.

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The weight of family expectations

To fuel his creativity, the aspiring chef spent a season interning at El Bulli, the groundbreaking restaurant near Barcelona that sparked the revolution in 'molecular' gastronomy.

“That’s when I really began thinking beyond conventional limits,” he shares.

“When I first started 16 years ago, after earning a degree in business management, my family was against me becoming a chef,” he recalls.

“The profession was seen as low-status, with no fame or glamour.”

Avillez, whose family boasts noble lineage, grew up in Cascais—a charming seaside town on the Atlantic coast, just an hour from Lisbon, now a favorite retreat for American retirees.

In this coastal town, Avillez was immersed in the sights, sounds, and, most importantly, the flavors of the sea from a young age.

It’s no surprise that Belcanto’s menu boasts 70% local seafood—what the chef calls “the best in the world”—with signature creations like “A Dip in the Sea” and “The Bottom of the Ocean.”

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Food that narrates a tale

“Whether inspired by memory or landscape, every dish should tell a story,” Avillez says. “Just like a painting does.”

Thus, his tasting menus are named “Lisbon Menu” and “The Discoveries,” reflecting both Portugal’s age-old seafaring explorations and the fresh, innovative flavors featured here.

From a unique perspective at a small “chef’s table” tucked away in a corner of Belcanto’s kitchen, guests can observe how Avillez runs his kitchen with precision and care.

Closed-circuit TV cameras broadcast live footage of various kitchen stations, letting diners watch the meticulous process of chopping and plating.

“What matters most is respecting your guests and staying true to your vision, ensuring everything is executed to the highest standard,” he explains.

To support his creative ventures, Avillez has set up a dedicated lab for new dishes and even owns a farm just outside of Cascais.

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‘Flavor is the priority’

“The bond with Portuguese suppliers is always a source of inspiration,” he adds.

“But I don't believe in being strict about sourcing only local ingredients. The most important thing is the flavor,” he says.

At Belcanto, he powerfully demonstrates this philosophy with his reimagined cabidela—traditionally a peasant dish—now presented as a wreath of tender oxtail, infused with smoked eel and topped with a beetroot sauce, replacing the traditional blood sauce.

Or the trick of a garlic clove that opens to reveal a delicate stream of almond milk.

He takes particular pride in his version of xerem, a rustic corn porridge, elevated with an herbal sauce, clams, and fish tripe.

“As Ferran Adrià taught us at El Bulli, a fresh sardine is always far superior to an old lobster,” he reflects.

While he’s happy to prepare traditional dishes upon request, and showcases them at his more casual spots like Cantinho do Avillez, his chefs are eager to push the boundaries and explore the full spectrum of Portuguese ingredients.

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“Although we consider these dishes ours, Portuguese cuisine is shaped by influences from North African spices, our former colonies in Asia and Africa, and, of course, we were the gateway for tomatoes and peppers from the New World,” he explains.

Thanks to Avillez, tourists can now experience the full depth of this heritage in a single meal.

“It’s incredible to think that people travel thousands of miles, even coming here for their honeymoon, just to taste my food, all while I’m sharing my city and country with the world—it’s truly beautiful,” he says.

It doesn’t matter if the artfully crafted dishes resemble Japanese precision more than European style.

With Jose Avillez leading the way, you can be certain that “there’s Portuguese DNA in every bite, a Portuguese soul in every plate.”