Michelin Guide Debuts in Singapore in 2016

Could there be any question about Singapore’s position as a global culinary hotspot? With the arrival of the Michelin Guide, the answer is a resounding no.

The prestigious guide awarded stars to 29 restaurants, including two beloved street food vendors, highlighting the diversity of Singapore’s dining scene.

Among the accolades was the highly sought-after three-star rating for the esteemed French restaurant Joël Robuchon, led by the world-renowned chef himself.

Destination: Singapore

Local chefs take the spotlight

The fee, of course, covered a multi-course tasting menu curated by Robuchon, alongside a talented group of local chefs such as Malcolm Lee, chef-owner of the Michelin-starred Candlenut, and Cheryl Koh, pastry chef at the two-Michelin-starred Les Amis.

Restaurant André, a regular in Asia’s top restaurant rankings, was honored with two Michelin stars.

Restaurant André, a frequent recipient of accolades in Asia’s best restaurant lists, earned two Michelin stars this year. Courtesy of Edmund Ho

A total of six restaurants received two stars, including another Joël Robuchon venue, L'Atelier Robuchon, two more French establishments, the sushi restaurant Shoukouwa, and the Chinese eatery Shisen Hanten.

An additional 22 establishments received a single Michelin star, including street food spots like Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle.

For many in Singapore’s culinary world, the arrival of the Michelin Guide is a monumental event, though it hasn’t been without its fair share of controversy.

“It’s thrilling to see the Michelin Guide land in Singapore,” says Litti Kewkacha, a restaurateur and theme park owner from Bangkok, who makes the trip to Singapore five to six times a year just to sample the city’s food.

“Singapore has been positioning itself to attract luxury, high-net-worth travelers for years, drawing renowned chefs and investing heavily in top-tier dining establishments.”

“At that level, restaurants aren’t just competing within Singapore, but on the global stage, and Michelin ratings will only further enhance Singapore’s reputation in the culinary world.”

The ultimate guide to dining in Singapore

A compelling reason to stay longer

Local chefs are in unanimous agreement.

“Michelin is a global food authority,” says Tetsuya Wakuda, the renowned Japanese chef behind Sydney’s Tetsuya’s and Singapore’s one-Michelin-starred Waku Ghin at Marina Bay Sands.

“Its arrival in Singapore brings much-needed recognition to the city and its culinary scene. Singapore is no longer just a stopover destination—it’s now a place with compelling reasons to stay and dine.”

“Absolutely, it’s a significant moment for Singapore,” agrees Andre Chiang, the Taiwan-born, French-trained chef-owner of two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Andre. A devoted fan of the Michelin Guides, Chiang has an entire collection of French Michelin Guides dating back to the 1960s.

“While locals may already have their own favorite spots, the guide will become the go-to reference for tourists,” says Chiang, whose restaurant’s clientele consists of about 50% visitors from abroad.

“What’s more, the guide will help distinguish top-tier restaurants from the rest, and serve as a catalyst for mid-range restaurants to step up their game and earn their first star.”

Local cuisine goes underappreciated

“The Michelin Guide is respected worldwide,” says Jason Tan, chef-owner of the one-Michelin-starred Corner House.

“We are thankful for the recognition and hope to keep impressing diners while staying committed to keeping the restaurant thriving,”

Despite being included in Asia's 50 Best list this year, Wild Rocket did not earn a Michelin star.

Although Wild Rocket earned a spot on Asia's 50 Best list this year, it was not awarded a Michelin star.

Despite the praise, the Michelin Guide has its critics, some of whom are concerned about the impact it may have on Singapore’s homegrown chefs.

“While Singapore boasts many world-class chefs who are producing exceptional dishes, we must not overlook our local talent who have worked relentlessly to elevate our native cuisine,” says one chef recently awarded a Michelin star, who asked to remain anonymous.

“Even though they have done excellent work, some of these chefs have not received recognition in the guide.”

Chili crabs and laksa: 10 must-try street foods in Singapore

Indeed, several restaurants helmed by Singaporean chefs, focusing on modern interpretations of local fare – including Wild Rocket, which entered Asia’s 50 Best list this year at No. 38 – have been overlooked by the first-ever Michelin Guide.

But they are not the only ones left out.

“Given the global acclaim Burnt Ends has been receiving, it’s baffling that David Pynt’s renowned BBQ spot didn’t secure a Michelin star,” says Hardwi Satrio Pinandityo, a food enthusiast and entrepreneur from Jakarta.

Burnt Ends made its debut on the World’s 100 Best list this year, coming in at No. 70; it was also ranked No. 14 on Asia’s 50 Best list in 2016.

As with other Asian regions, Michelin has teamed up with local tourism authorities for this initiative.

“I think that’s fair,” says Kewkacha. “You’re paying to bring Michelin into the country, but the inspectors must remain unbiased when it comes to evaluating restaurants.”

‘A bit insulting’

However, Kewkacha raised concerns about another aspect of the process—having private companies act as sponsors.

“Especially when they have direct connections by owning restaurants that are themselves being graded,” he adds.

He notes that four restaurants from the sponsor Resorts World Sentosa – Forest, Osia, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, and Joel Robuchon Restaurant – all earned Michelin stars.

“The Michelin Guide is the most respected culinary guide in the world,” says Kewkacha. “I just hope it doesn’t lose its credibility by being influenced by sponsors, especially in Singapore’s first year.”

The ‘hawkerpreneurs’ preserving Singapore’s street food legacy

Discontent grew when Michelin Singapore revealed its first-ever Bib Gourmand awards, which highlight restaurants offering quality meals at more affordable prices.

Yeoh Wee Teck, a food critic from Singapore's New Paper, voiced his disappointment that despite the island having over 15,000 food stalls, only 34 establishments (14 restaurants, 17 hawker stalls, and 3 food outlets in coffee shops) earned recognition from the Michelin Guide.

“Can these selections truly represent the vast diversity of our hawker culture, especially when some beloved local favorites were left out?” he said, calling the limited representation “nearly insulting.”

Here’s the list for 2016: