Michelin Guide Set to Arrive in Bangkok

The worst-kept secret in the culinary world has finally been confirmed: Michelin will indeed bring its prestigious guide to Bangkok before the end of the year, validating the ongoing speculation that the Thai capital is about to receive its own culinary recognition.

The announcement was made in the grand setting of Phaya Thai Palace in Bangkok, underscoring the significance of this launch. This edition of the iconic Red Guide comes with official backing, in collaboration with the Tourism Authority of Thailand.

For many in Bangkok, the news is long overdue. The city joins a growing list of Asian metropolises, including Japan, China, Singapore, and Seoul, to earn a place in Michelin's global culinary spotlight.

"A sea of mediocrity."

A decade ago, the idea that Bangkok could house a critical mass of Michelin-worthy restaurants would have seemed laughable.

Amid a few upscale dining spots and a vibrant street food culture, the rest of the food scene was filled with mediocrity.

The availability of high-quality ingredients was inconsistent, and service was often awkward, even in the city's top hotels. This gap in service standards could be one of the reasons Michelin has taken so long to recognize Bangkok.

However, in 2009-10, Australian chef David Thompson opened Nahm on Sathorn Road, while his former apprentices Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava launched Bo.Lan on Sukhumvit, bringing Thai cuisine back to its authentic roots, though sometimes in a blunt way.

And then, everything changed.

Restaurant owners quickly realized there was a growing demand from both locals and expats for top-quality food, whether Thai or international.

Thai chefs, feeling the pressure of an outsider teaching them how to perfect their own cuisine, stepped up their game in a wave of healthy competition.

In the wake of the economic downturn, several talented Western chefs found their way to Bangkok, collaborating and exchanging culinary ideas with their Thai peers.

As the Michelin void began to fill, the anonymous judges of the World’s 50 Best list took notice, recognizing that some of Bangkok’s restaurants were now offering the same level of quality and creativity as those in culinary giants like Tokyo and Hong Kong.

Gaggan Anand, with his innovative, molecular approach to Indian cuisine, has dominated the Asian rankings for the past three years.

Which restaurants in Bangkok deserve a Michelin star?

So, who will make the cut?

Nahm, Bo.Lan, and Gaggan are strong contenders.

I’d also bet on Sühring, the restaurant run by German twin chefs on a mission to reinvent their homeland’s cuisine, as well as Le Du, where the incredibly talented Ton Tassanakajohn seems to continuously transform Thai cuisine.

For those looking for more classic interpretations of Thai dishes, Issaya Siamese Club and Paste should be feeling confident as well.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is a sure bet for recognition, as it’s Robuchon—he seems to earn Michelin stars effortlessly.

Le Normandie at the Mandarin Oriental and the legendary Blue Elephant are likely to be recognized for maintaining high standards during the years when many other establishments were subpar.

Michelin’s guide might also feature M Krub for Chinese cuisine and Sushi Masato for Japanese, both of which offer exceptional dining experiences.

But it’s not all about fine dining with pristine tablecloths.

A recent trend in Michelin’s Asian guides has been to shine a light on more modest establishments, exploring street food and unassuming spots where everyday locals enjoy authentic meals.

The Michelin announcement comes at a time when Bangkok’s iconic street food is once again making headlines, as authorities rush to deny rumors that all vendors will be removed from the streets and relocated to sterile, Singapore-style hawker centers.

Even if there are still carts left for Michelin to consider, some critics argue that these awards can feel tokenistic, randomly selecting a few worthy spots to represent an entire cuisine. The owners of starred establishments are often just as surprised as anyone by their newfound fame (though not so shocked that they don’t raise their prices).

Predicting the winners is a fool’s errand; I would have placed a bet on Somtum Der, famous for its addictive spicy green papaya salad, but its New York location recently earned and then lost a Michelin star, so the element of surprise may be gone.

It’s worth noting that Thai street food isn’t the only unassuming cuisine making waves here. A nod to Peppina’s Neapolitan pizzas or the burgers at Crying Thaiger would also be a welcome addition.

Of course, some choices will be controversial, and many armchair critics will argue that Michelin has missed the mark or doesn’t truly understand Thai cuisine. One chef will likely throw a public tantrum over their exclusion, which will probably generate more buzz than some of the star winners.

Ultimately, having its own Red Guide would help silence the skeptics and critics, proving that Bangkok is a true global city deserving of respect and recognition.

And that’s a good thing, right?