My Experience as a Tour Guide in Venice—Why Winter Reigns as the Best Season to Visit

February is my birthday month, a time when New York's weather and general vibe hit rock bottom, making the winter blues feel particularly heavy. Even if I throw a celebration, the weather could spoil the fun (one memorable birthday was ruined by a storm that shut down airports, trains, and even roads). So, instead of heading to the Caribbean beaches, I find myself flying to Venice.

Venice is a city I've cherished for decades, having worked there as a tour guide during my student days. (A key tip I learned: when walking, stick to a specific route and you might lose your mind. Instead, use the squares or campi as your guides and meander between them—check your progress only when you emerge into one.) Nowadays, mentioning Venice to travelers often elicits a cringe, as it's become synonymous with the harsh realities of overtourism: jam-packed streets, exorbitantly priced accommodations, and locals who have simply had enough.

This may hold true in the summer, but from December to February, Venice retains the enchanting charm that originally made it a must-visit. My friend Skye McAlpine, a cookbook author who spent much of her childhood there and still owns a home in the Santa Croce district, agrees that winter is the ideal time to truly experience Venice. “Those foggy days with the mist clinging to the water? It feels like viewing everything through a lens,” she says. “You find yourself in a Henry James novel—it’s so magical. Everything feels more enigmatic, more romantic, and tinged with melancholy.”

This atmosphere has resonated with me throughout countless winter trips. I’ve stood on a vaporetto deck, wrapped in cashmere, as the brisk sea air swirled around me, the sky bright and clear, gliding past a nearly deserted St. Mark’s Square. There's nothing better than visiting Burano, an Instagram-worthy island further out in the lagoon, with its streets lined with vibrant, confetti-colored houses. When delicate snowflakes dust the canal sides like powdered sugar, it’s the perfect reason to duck inside and ride out the storm: If there’s a bakery nearby, indulge in a fritole, or Venetian doughnut, made during Carnival, or sip on some prosecco at any time of day—it’s produced right here in the Veneto, after all.

In January, taking a gondola ride allows you to glide through the lagoon in serene silence, with the only sound being the gentle slurp of the water. “At times, you can’t even see what lies ahead,” says my friend Sara Maestrelli, who runs the Violino d’Oro hotel. “The water appears dark, and the light dances on its surface.” Is there anything more delightful than meandering through nearly deserted back streets toward dinner, feeling half-lost and half-adventurous in the tranquil night? “Venice is incredibly safe, so wandering these narrow alleys alone is perfectly fine, even when you can’t see where you’re going at night,” she adds.

One beloved element of a Venetian winter that I’ve cherished but is now mostly gone is acqu’alta, or “high water.” It’s well-known that La Serenissima is gradually sinking into the lagoon it rests upon, and this issue—combined with climate change—once transformed its streets into rivers during winter. I fondly remember when the waters would overflow onto the streets, forcing you to wade through in thigh-high, fly-fisherman-style plastic galoshes provided by hotels (most from Goldon). Makeshift bridges, known as passerelle, would appear above the deepest sections of water.

Thanks to a series of dams, the most severe threats from the sea have been mitigated, although you may still encounter brief episodes of winter flooding. Still, that’s far preferable to a snowstorm in New York any day.

Tips for visiting Venice without the crowds

1. Be aware that Venice’s off season still has its busy moments

The winter months in Venice have a certain rhythm—be prepared for busier times, such as during Carnival, though it won’t approach the hecticness of a peak summer weekend. Don’t confuse Carnival with a Caribbean-style street festival; most festivities occur behind closed doors. However, you will frequently see attendees dressed in 17th-century attire making their way to a celebration. “If you enjoy dressing up, this is definitely your time to shine. You can stroll around, and people will ask to take your picture,” says Skye McAlpine.

2. Discover where the locals like to hang out

During winter, the locals of Venice reclaim their city. Wander through the residential streets of Santa Croce in the north, where you’ll mingle with locals at Un Mondo Divino, my favorite wine bar in the area. Stop by midmorning for uno spritz (Aperol or Campari, your choice) or an espresso. The Dorsoduro district is another delightful area to explore, especially along the Zattere waterfront, where you’re likely to avoid any annoying flooding, as it’s the most stable part of the city—the name translates to “firm back.”

3. Be sure to explore the islands scattered throughout the lagoon.

Venice’s islands are even less crowded in winter compared to the city itself. For instance, visit Murano and find some subtly flawed glassware at the Nason Moretti outlet, located in a shed alongside numerous glassblowers working at their furnaces. The last time I visited, the lights were off, making it appear closed. All I needed to do was find a staff member, who quickly turned on the lights and allowed us to browse through rack after rack of exquisite, jewel-toned handmade bowls, glasses, and vases.

Accommodation options

If you choose not to stay at Violino d’Oro, consider a few hotels located slightly farther away along the waterfront in Dorsoduro. La Calcina is a cozy, old-fashioned establishment featuring spacious, minimally decorated rooms, a lovely courtyard, and even a rooftop terrace where you can arrange for a private breakfast or cocktails at sunset. Just a short walk along the waterfront, the art deco-inspired Palazzo Experimental, owned by the namesake Paris B&B group (known for its bed and beverage concept), began with cocktail bars, making the aperitivo scene here exceptional.