Navigating the Alaska Marine Highway

Traveling on the Alaska Marine Highway System (AMHS) – the ferry network linking Alaska's coastal towns – offers breathtaking views similar to cruise ships, minus the extras.

Passengers catch sight of glaciers, wildlife, and verdant forests while interacting with locals who depend on ferries for travel. This experience truly reveals rural Alaskan life and breathtaking destinations without the hefty costs.

Planning ahead is essential for ferry travel, as the Alaska Marine Highway System is recognized as an All-American Road, the first waterway to earn this title, with its 3500-mile scenic route attracting independent travelers with cars, RVs, bicycles, and motorcycles.

What exactly is the Alaska Marine Highway System (AMHS)?

Affectionately referred to as the 'blue canoes' by locals, the state-operated AMHS ferries are essential for everyday life and trade in coastal Alaskan communities. Connecting three regions—Southeast, Southcentral, and Southwest—the fleet navigates a 30-route system, offering both residents and visitors a unique glimpse into the Alaskan way of life.

Originally launched in 1948 by two brothers who recognized the need for transportation between small towns like Haines, Skagway, and Tee Harbor in Southeast Alaska, the ferry system became a state entity in 1963. The introduction of the MV Malaspina in Ketchikan was celebrated widely, as one local remarked, “We could finally go somewhere!”

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What are the top routes on the AMHS?

Alaska Marine Highway routes differ in distance and duration, ranging from a few hours to multiple days, based on the communities they connect. If you’re seeking a glimpse of Alaska’s coastal regions filled with activities and breathtaking views, these itineraries make for excellent additions to land-based travel or can serve as complete vacations on their own.

Route 1: Whittier to Valdez (Southcentral)

The fishing industry stands as one of Alaska’s key economic drivers, making a summer journey through Prince William Sound a prime opportunity to observe the boats and crews at work with nets and lines. This five-hour voyage navigates the serene bays and rugged coves of the sound, framed by the breathtaking Chugach National Forest. Easily accessible via the Richardson and Glenn Highways connecting Anchorage, Whittier, and Fairbanks, this route is perfect for those seeking a round-trip adventure. Keep an eye out for fishing vessels, kayakers camping along the shore, and 'bergy bits' from the colossal Columbia Glacier as you approach Valdez, where you can stay overnight before continuing your journey north or west.

Upon reaching Valdez, be sure to visit the Valdez Museum to explore the region's history, including significant events such as the 9.2 magnitude earthquake in 1964 and the Exxon Valdez oil spill in 1989. Old Town Valdez represents the former downtown area that was nearly wiped out by a tsunami during the 1964 quake, leading to the community's relocation. Just a few miles from town, the Solomon Gulch Hatchery offers a fantastic spot to observe sea lions and the occasional brown or black bear fishing for pink salmon. A glacier and wildlife cruise from Valdez harbor allows for close encounters with these majestic rivers of ice and the whales frolicking in Prince William Sound.

Route 2: Juneau to Haines (Southeast)

Departing from Auke Bay, a short distance from downtown Juneau, the trip to Haines takes just under four hours and is a popular route for locals traveling for shopping, appointments, or sports events. Watch for whales, seals, and eagles as you traverse the northern section of the Inside Passage before entering the picturesque Lynn Canal. Haines is a charming town located only 45 miles from the Canadian border and is one of the few Southeast Alaskan communities accessible by road, water, and air. Unlike its neighboring Skagway, which is just 20 miles up Chilkoot Inlet, Haines has maintained its authentic charm, making it an ideal destination for visitors seeking outdoor activities, kayaking, and cultural experiences without the tourist crowds.

Haines also serves as an excellent starting point for a road trip into Canada's Yukon Territory and back into Alaska via the renowned Alaska Highway (or AlCan). Keep in mind that a passport is required for the multiple border crossings.

Route 3: Homer to Dutch Harbor (Southwest)

This route is designed for true adventurers eager to discover the remote coastal wonders of Alaska. It begins in the small town of Homer, situated at the end of the Kenai Peninsula in Southcentral Alaska. Just over 200 miles south of Anchorage (around a five-hour drive), Homer is celebrated for its excellent halibut fishing and abundant hiking and camping opportunities around the stunning Kachemak Bay.

Typically, the ferry departs in the evening for an overnight journey across the Gulf of Alaska, arriving in Kodiak City on Kodiak Island the next morning. From Kodiak, the ferry continues across Shelikof Strait towards the Alaska Peninsula before reaching the Aleutian Islands. Travelers may spot steam rising from one of the region's many active volcanoes and occasionally catch sight of a whale spouting in the distance.

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How can I book a ferry trip?

The simplest way to book an Alaska Marine Highway trip is through the website. Operated by the State of Alaska, the site has its quirks, but you can also reach helpful reservation agents by phone at 1-800-642-0066. For multi-day sailings, such as to Dutch Harbor, a stateroom is preferable to sleeping in common areas or on deck. Be sure to book these well in advance, as they fill up quickly.

If the thought of sleeping under the stars on deck excites you, be sure to check posted signs that indicate where sleeping outside is allowed. Some decks permit small tents, but they must be secured with duct tape to prevent them from blowing away during the journey. Deck lounge chairs with heat lamps in solarium areas may also be available for overnight passengers, although not all ferries offer this. Use lockers in common areas to secure valuables, as your gear will be exposed to the elements and fellow travelers otherwise.

When are tickets released?

The Alaska Marine Highway System publishes its summer schedule in early spring each year, and tickets for sought-after Southeast and Southwest routes tend to sell out quickly. A smart approach is to follow AMHS on social media and check their website regularly. Also, try to be flexible with your travel dates, as long weekends and holidays are especially busy.

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What should I pack? What items are allowed on board?

• Personal food and non-alcoholic beverages are allowed in the cafeteria area. It's advisable to bring a cooler for perishable items. Alcohol is permitted only in staterooms.

• Dress warmly and bring rain gear to enjoy ample time outdoors on deck. Non-slip footwear is essential for navigating wet surfaces.

• Don't forget your binoculars to catch glimpses of whales and other wildlife. The ferry crew usually makes announcements when animals or birds are spotted.

• Be sure to carry a government-issued ID, charging cables, and cash or credit cards for purchasing food and other items on board.

What’s the experience like on board?

During the summer months, the Alaska Marine Highway System ferries can get quite crowded, with passengers claiming spots in all common areas for the duration of their journey. If you haven't booked a stateroom, be sure to bring coins for lockers to secure your valuables and embrace the spirit of independent travel.

Take the time to enjoy meals in the vessel’s cafeteria and connect with fellow travelers; it’s a great chance to learn about life in coastal Alaska. If you're on a multi-day trip, consider bringing your own water bottle, a mug for coffee or tea, and snacks or camp-style meals.

The Alaska Marine Highway System provides a comprehensive list of important information and travel policies on its website.