Navigating the Amalfi Coast solely with public transport

With seas of wine-dark hues, lemon orchards, and colorful houses clinging to the rugged coastline, you find yourself in Italy's stunning Amalfi Coast.

Your main concern now is reaching its breathtaking spots. Perhaps you enjoy driving abroad, or like Jennifer Coolidge in The White Lotus, dream of zooming around on a Vespa, your vibrant scarf billowing behind you.

But let's face the facts: the Amalfi Coast can be challenging to navigate, featuring steep cliff roads, sharp turns, and steep drops into the crashing waves below. Driving in this popular area often means battling heavy traffic and exorbitant parking fees – if you can even locate a spot. A scooter offers ease, but only if you're an adept rider.

Here's the silver lining: an extensive public transport system exists that can take you almost anywhere you wish to go, as long as you plan ahead. Like much of Italy, public transport can be inconsistent, but believe me, it’s still a better option than tackling the chaotic, narrow SS163 state road during peak season.

Besides Sorrento and Vietri sul Mare, Italy’s train system does not access this hilly coastline. However, there are regular buses and a superb fleet of fast ferries connecting the cities, along with routes from Naples. Access to certain towns on the Amalfi will also improve when the new airport near Salerno opens on July 11.

Continue reading to discover how to explore the Amalfi Coast’s top spots in five simple steps, armed with just a ticket and a smile. A flowing pink scarf is optional.

Step 1: Develop a foolproof itinerary… but keep it realistic

Determine the right number of activities you can fit into your schedule

So much to explore, so little time: I understand completely. However, if you're depending on public transport, it's best to keep your itinerary to just a few destinations and avoid scheduling multiple experiences in one day. Here are the must-see highlights of the region, generally ranked by ease of access via public transport.

The star coastal villages

The towns nestled between Amalfi and Salerno are easily accessible by ferry or the 5570 SITA bus (barring any unexpected issues). Keep in mind that the last ferry from Positano departs in the late afternoon during peak season, with reduced service in the off-season. It’s advisable to plan your return via the SITA bus.

Ravello

The hilltop village of Ravello is just a short bus ride from Amalfi (SITA 5110). You’ll need to transfer if you're coming from a different location.

The Path of the Gods

Take the 5080 bus from Amalfi to Agerola (Bomerano), the starting point of this legendary clifftop hike. The trail ends in the village of Nocelle, where you can treat yourself to a refreshing lemon slushie before descending the 1,700 steps to Positano, from where you can catch a bus or ferry back to your base.

Coastal beaches and natural wonders

The 5570 SITA bus will transport you to the Fiordo di Furore and Conca dei Marini beaches, as well as the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a natural cave featuring glowing green waters. I suggest selecting just one to visit – even though they're only a few kilometers apart, coordinating bus schedules can be challenging. My recommendation? If you’re up for some steps, go for the Fiordo di Furore. This hidden pebble beach, with its famous arched bridge, provides a stunning backdrop and an incredibly joyful atmosphere.

The Sorrento Peninsula

The larger towns along the peninsula's western coast – Sorrento, Vico Equense, and Castellammare – are connected by the Circumvesuviana train line. As of September 2023, Trenitalia has boosted service between Naples and Salerno, offering about 40 trains daily, including both fast direct options and slower trains that require transfers. To access villages like Nerano, the gateway to the Baia di Ieranto and Punta Campanella hikes, as well as Marina del Cantone beach, you’ll need the SITA Nord or EAV buses.

Here's where it gets complicated. The main piazzetta in Nerano is the starting point for the Baia di Ieranto hike, but it involves a 35-minute uphill trek to Termini, where the Punta Campanella hike begins, and a 20-minute descent to Marina del Cantone. Like many, you might be tempted to tackle all the Nerano activities in one day, but I strongly recommend against it for your well-being. Instead, I suggest planning three separate itineraries.

Itinerary 1: Grab a panino alla caprese filled with fresh tomatoes and creamy mozzarella di bufala. Take the bus to Nerano, then embark on a hike to Baia di Ieranto, a breathtaking cliff beach offering views of Capri.

Itinerary 2: Hop on the bus to Nerano and continue up to Termini for a hike to Punta Campanella, the southernmost point of the Sorrento Peninsula. Once back in Termini, treat yourself to some delicious spaghetti alla Nerano at Ristorante Eughenes.

Itinerary 3: Travel to Nerano via bus and then head down to Marina del Cantone, where you’ll enjoy a picturesque bay filled with majestic sailboats. Stop for lunch at Mary’s Beach or Ostello le Sirene, known for its whimsical mermaid decor. (Art or kitsch? You decide.)

For more immersive experiences on the Sorrentine Peninsula or further inland on the Amalfi Coast, you’ll need to take the plunge and drive yourself.

Step 2: Master your base

Be strategic and keep your budget in mind

Which town is the best base for those who don’t drive? Amalfi is the most strategic option, offering direct connections to all coastal attractions and the Sorrento Peninsula. Sorrento and Salerno are also excellent choices, serving as major hubs for buses, trains, and ferries. Additionally, Salerno is conveniently close to the new Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport, which will begin receiving flights from Spain, France, and other regions of Italy starting July 11. Shuttle buses will provide transport from the airport to nearby towns.

For more budget-friendly accommodations, consider Sant’Agnello, a village just a short walk from Sorrento; Atrani, which is a six-minute stroll from Amalfi; or Maiori, located between Amalfi and Vietri sul Mare, with reliable ferry access.

Step 3: Think about the time of year

Every season has its trade-offs

It’s a tricky situation: visiting the Amalfi Coast during high season (from Easter to August) means you’ll be vying for space on crowded buses. However, if you opt for the off or shoulder seasons, you’ll find that public transport, especially ferries, runs much less frequently. Regardless of your timing, make sure to check transit schedules to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

In peak season, allow extra time in your plans for buses that may run late due to heavy summer traffic, or for the possibility that the bus you’ve been waiting for in the blazing sun is full and zooms past you. Always carry water and keep your phone charged so you can track bus arrivals and, if necessary, call a taxi.

Step 4: Embrace technology

Apps are essential for public transport users

Simplify your travel by downloading the free Unico Campania app, which provides real-time bus and train information and allows ticket purchases (if you have a European credit card). Websites like ferryhopper.it and traghettilines.it, along with their apps, will give you ferry schedules and ticket options. If online or mobile purchases aren’t possible, you’ll need to buy bus tickets the traditional way at newsstands or tobacconists—just look for the large T sign. Ferry tickets can be purchased at the port.

Step 5: Pick your mode of transport

Stick to land – or set sail

Bus or ferry? The SITA bus runs late into the night, bringing you to mountain villages and the coast's breathtaking sights. Riding the SITA is an exhilarating adventure, as the bus navigates tight spots between cars and zipping scooters while drivers sound their horns in urgency or caution.

If your journey is along the coast, opt for the ferry. They’re usually less packed and often faster, even during peak season. Plus, just imagine the stunning views of the coastline as it unfolds before you from the water.

If I had the chance to do it again:

I’d learn to ride a Vespa. Just kidding! (Or maybe not?)

My top tip – aside from avoiding travel to this region during peak season – is to refrain from cramming too many activities into one day like I did in Nerano. Take your time: choose a spot, enjoy a spritz, and watch the pink sun dip into the Gulf of Naples. After all, isn’t that the reason you came?