Northern Thailand's cuisine: 9 must-try dishes for every traveler

Northern Thailand is famous for its elephant sanctuaries, the stunning Wat Rong Khun, and the vibrant city of Chiang Mai.

For photographer and author Austin Bush, the true allure of the region lies in its lesser-known, regional food traditions.

Bush’s debut book, 'The Food of Northern Thailand,' combines captivating photography with insightful text that explores the area's culinary history, native ingredients, and life, featuring recipes previously unpublished in English—many of which were tested with renowned chef Andy Ricker of Pok Pok.

'I envisioned the book to serve multiple purposes,' says Bush in an interview with Dinogo Travel.

This could be a visually stunning coffee table book, filled with vibrant photographs perfect for casual browsing. Alongside the imagery, there's enough narrative to captivate readers with stories about history and ingredients.

I admit, many of the recipes are quite specialized, and some dishes in this cookbook may be nearly impossible to prepare outside Bangkok due to the difficulty of finding the right ingredients.

My hope is that there’s something here for everyone, including those who don’t cook much but still want to be inspired.

The recipes are primarily sourced from local vendors, food stalls, and restaurants that Bush has frequented for nearly two decades, both as a photographer and a passionate food lover. His deep connection with Thai culture began in 1999 when he earned a scholarship to study Thai at Chiang Mai University, sparking his obsession with the region’s cuisine.

In this section, Bush, who suggests renting a car or motorcycle for the best regional exploration, highlights nine essential northern Thai dishes, both iconic and lesser-known, along with his top recommendations for where to enjoy them.

Khao Soi

Where To Try It: Khao Soi Prince, Chiang Mai

A fragrant and richly textured curry soup, khao soi features a mix of boiled and crispy fried noodles, tangy pickled vegetables, and tender pieces of beef or chicken. It's the quintessential dish of northern Thailand, as iconic as deep-dish pizza is to Chicago.

Bush points to this 50+ year-old Chiang Mai favorite, where Andy Ricker of Pok Pok had his first taste in 1992, as a must-visit spot to indulge in an authentic bowl of khao soi.

"Khao soi is truly a dish of the city," Bush explains. "You won’t find a version as good anywhere outside of Chiang Mai. It’s believed to have Muslim origins, and the Muslim couple running Khao Soi Prince prepare it in the traditional Muslim way."

They prepare this rich, hearty curry by placing noodles in a bowl, adding a generous scoop of curry, and then finishing it off with a swirl of coconut cream to balance the flavors.

"The Thai Buddhist version, where the coconut milk and curry are blended together in advance, is usually thicker. But this version is incredibly well-balanced—lighter, more liquid, and absolutely delicious."

Khanom Jeen Naam Ngiaw

Where To Try It: Pa Bunsri, Lampang

A flavorful broth made from pork ribs, a chili-based curry paste, cubes of blood, tomatoes, and thin, flat rice noodles creates a savory and salty dish that is a beloved local favorite. What sets Pa Bunsri’s version apart is a key old-school touch that adds extra depth to the flavor.

"Back in the day, to dry chilies they’d use an indoor stove with a rack placed above it, where they’d hang the chilies to dry," explains Bush.

"They’d get that distinct smoky flavor as they dried. She still hires someone to dry chilies the old-fashioned way, which gives them a unique smokiness you just don’t find anymore. It’s a flavor that's both rare and absolutely delicious."

Nam Phrik Num

Where To Try It: Midnight Fried Chicken, Chiang Mai

This northern Thai-style dip made with grilled chilies, shallots, and garlic is traditionally served with fresh veggies and sticky rice. But at this fried chicken spot, they’ve found a sinfully delicious way to enjoy it with something a bit more indulgent.

"They basically deep-fry everything here, and you need something to pair it with. This super savory, salty, and oily fried chicken dipped in the spicy green vegetable dip is the ultimate indulgence—rich, flavorful, and absolutely mouthwatering."

Khao Soi Naam Naa

Where To Try It: Pa Orn, Chiang Khong

This unique and delicious rice noodle soup doesn’t feature coconut milk or curry spices. Instead, the focus is on a rich paste made from minced pork belly, fermented soybeans, and dried chilies, all simmered in pork fat.

"It’s a savory, umami-packed delight," says Bush. "Pa Orn crafts a simple yet incredibly flavorful broth, and the meaty topping is so tasty, you could easily eat it by the spoonful on its own."

Khao Taen

Where To Try It: Khun Manee, Lampang

This snack made from rice cakes is far from ordinary: sticky rice is combined with sugar, salt, sesame, and watermelon juice, then dried under the sun, deep-fried, and finished with a drizzle of palm sugar.

"A lot of Thai desserts can be a bit unusual, but this one is totally approachable—crispy, sweet, and wonderfully fragrant," says Bush.

"It’s one of the best sweet snacks in Thailand, and this particular vendor makes them without the usual greasiness. I share them with friends, and they always love them."

Khao Kan Jin

Where To Try It: Paa Jaang, Mae Hong Son

Khao Kan Jin, also known as "blood rice," is made from minced pork, pork blood, and long-grain rice, all steamed in a banana leaf and topped with savory garlic oil.

"For foreigners, blood can be a bit of an intimidating ingredient," Bush acknowledges.

"But if I didn’t tell you it was made with blood, you wouldn’t even notice. This dish hails from the Shan ethnic group, who favor rich, oily flavors, and that garlic oil is absolutely irresistible."

"Paa Jaang has been serving this dish for 40 years, and although she offers a few other items, her khao kan jin is so popular that if you don’t arrive within an hour of opening, it’ll already be sold out."

Jin Tup

Where To Try It: Phen, Mae Hong Son

Unfussy but incredibly tasty, 'pounded beef' consists of a tough cut of beef marinated in fish sauce and salt, grilled over charcoal, and then hammered flat—'tup' is the sound of the pounding action.

"You get these tender strands of beef, packed with savory, salty fish sauce flavor," Bush exclaims. "And Phen makes this fantastic dip to go with it, which is slightly sweet thanks to the minced shallots."

"It’s one of the best dishes in northern Thailand. The beef is grilled for hours, so it turns out incredibly dry, concentrated, and full of deep beef flavor."

Laap Muu Khua

Where To Try It: Jin Sot, Phrae

While the Isaan version of laap (or larb) is popular in the U.S. for its herbal, sour notes and the smoky crunch from roasted rice powder, this northern Thai version is almost a completely different dish altogether.

"It’s not as herbal as other versions, it’s more meaty, not sour at all, and its flavor primarily comes from dried spices," Bush explains.

"One standout spice is from the same family as Sichuan pepper, giving it a unique numbing sensation. This restaurant nails the northern-style laap, and when in season, they add halved cherry tomatoes for a tart flavor twist, something I’ve never had anywhere else, and it’s absolutely delicious."

Muu Phan Pii

Where To Try It: Sue Hai, Chiang Rai

Known as "thousand-year pork," this dish features pork belly, pickled vegetables, and oolong tea leaves, all layered and steamed for four hours. It’s a creation of northern Thailand’s Chinese immigrant community.

"After the communists took control of China in 1949, those who resisted fled to Myanmar, got caught up in the drug trade, were expelled, and then settled in the hills of northern Thailand," Bush explains.

"Sue Hai, the owner of this place, is second-generation Chinese. He was born in Thailand but speaks Thai with a distinct Chinese accent. They serve all kinds of dishes here. Muu phan pii is typically eaten with rice or steamed buns. It’s a rich, fatty pork dish, with a tart kick from the vegetables and a slight bitterness from the tea. It’s labor-intensive to make, but absolutely worth it—delicious!"

“The Food Of Northern Thailand” (Clarkson Potter) will be available on October 23.