Old Family Photographs Raised Questions. The Discoveries Led Them Straight to Denmark

I can't imagine a more fitting way to introduce two locals from rural Denmark to American culture than by arriving at a stranger's home and urgently requesting to let two 10-year-olds use their restroom. This moment, reminiscent of a scene from National Lampoon’s European Vacation, was uncomfortable for everyone involved, including the young kids who had to deal with antiquated plumbing. This situation was sparked by a quintessentially American urge to explore our family history and connect with our origins.

Our (mis)adventure to that house near Lintrup, located on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula near the German border, began with a folder of family history. My husband Nick’s great-grandfather, Nis Sønderup, immigrated to Minnesota from Denmark around the early 1900s. Nick had previously visited Denmark at age 14 for a soccer tournament but had never felt a curiosity about his ancestry until we began exploring the folder together.

Nick’s parents had casually handed over the folder a few years back, unaware of the journey it would inspire. About 25 years prior, some of Nick’s older relatives had reconnected with a cousin in Denmark named Brigit and her husband Leif. One of them even visited, taking photos outside the ancestral Sønderup farmhouse in Jutland, known as Little Fuglbaekgaard. Leif was an avid family historian who kept in touch with various Sonderups in the U.S. (where the special character ø was lost), spanning from Nebraska to Texas, and we read an extensive letter from him detailing the history of the Sonderup family across generations.

Within just one generation, five out of eight Sonderup siblings emigrated to the United States during the late 1800s, and in the following generation, at least another six or eight cousins followed suit. It turns out that Nis was among at least a dozen family members who left Denmark seeking better opportunities in the farming communities of Minnesota and Nebraska. Interestingly, all of them can trace their roots back to this one farmhouse. We delved into the history, captivated by old photographs of the house from 1906 as well as some recent color images. The sturdy two-story stone structure features whitewashed walls and a gently sloping roof, with an attached barn forming an L-shape around the front drive.

The photos sparked a thought: Why not plan a visit to Lintrup? We could unravel the story of Nick’s family while enjoying a road trip through Denmark, giving my children a glimpse into their Danish heritage and how it’s already woven into their lives, from The Little Mermaid to LEGO. Plus, Nick has never heard his last name pronounced correctly, and neither have my kids. Wouldn’t it be amazing to hear it pronounced by the Danes themselves?

Nick was already friends with Brigit and Leif’s son, Thomas, on Facebook, but they had never exchanged messages. So, we reached out and arranged to meet at Little Fuglbaekgaard, located about 165 miles west of Copenhagen. To get ready for the trip, I pulled out picture books about the Vikings for the girls (which they found “so boring, Mom”) and read them Hans Christian Andersen’s original, not-so-happy version of “The Little Mermaid” (to which they responded, “wait, she dies?”).

We planned a four-day road trip through the countryside, starting with a stop in Funen, Denmark's third-largest island, and Andersen’s hometown of Odense, the third-largest city. Then we’d visit Ribe and LEGOLAND Billund before heading to Copenhagen for a few days of urban exploration. If the girls found the family heritage quest uninteresting, we were sure that LEGOLAND and the Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen would more than make up for it.

First destination: Vikings and fairy tales

We discover that Denmark is impressively neat. The main highway features no more than two lanes in each direction, accompanied by an equally smooth bike lane that resembles a cyclist freeway, separated by a generous stretch of flower-filled greenery. After picking up our rental car, our first stop is the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde, located about 45 minutes west of Copenhagen. The girls enthusiastically explore both the indoor and outdoor replicas of ancient Viking ships (finally, I hear a “cool, Mom!”), before we continue on to Odense in Funen, the hometown of Hans Christian Andersen. It’s a lush little city—even the tram tracks are lined with grass, and wildflowers adorn the sidewalks.

Although the girls were initially skeptical about the stories, when we arrive at the H.C. Andersen Hus the following morning, a new experiential museum that includes Andersen’s childhood residence, they are spellbound. Inside the museum's circular silos, which are green-roofed and partially underground, interconnected by winding garden paths and hedges, puppet makers, papercut artists, and videographers have created large-scale installations that bring to life the beloved tales (“The Snow Queen,” “The Tin Soldier,” etc.). An audio track automatically begins playing through our headsets as we approach each exhibit, leaving the girls—and us—wide-eyed in wonder. I realize our enchantment stems from the fact that the English script is authored by none other than Lemony Snicket (Daniel Handler).

Discovering the farmhouse

After strolling through the quaint pedestrian-friendly center of Odense, we set off toward the farmhouse near Lintrup. Thomas had instructed us to meet him and his girlfriend Trine by the roadside in the tiny village of Foldingbro. We felt equal parts excitement and nervousness, eager to finally see the house yet aware that he was both family and a stranger! It felt a bit awkward at first, but we were relieved to hear they had already visited the house and spoken with the owners, who don’t speak any English, to get permission for us to stop by. While we were allowed to see the house, Thomas mentioned that we couldn’t enter their home. That quickly changes, however, when a small voice pipes up, “I really need the bathroom.”

Experiencing the white house and its lush green lawn in person was exhilarating, as it looked just like the photographs. Yet, we had some urgent matters to attend to first. After dealing with that situation, the owners inform Thomas that we aren’t even the first Sonderups to visit this year! A few months prior, some American Sonderups, unknown to Nick, had knocked on their door, and about ten years ago, three elderly sisters from Nebraska also came to see the farmhouse. As we bask in the sunlight, I imagine the house with its original thatched roof and functioning as a working farm. I take photos of Thomas, Nick, and the girls—a new generation to add to the family folder.

Thomas shares that after Denmark lost the Second Prussian War in 1864, the farmhouse ended up behind the new German border defined by the Kongeåen River (which reverted back to Denmark after World War I), placing the Sonderups in Germany. He explains that Jens, his and Nick’s common great-great-grandfather, left home and moved approximately 45 miles northwest to Stavsø in order to remain within Danish territory.

We delve even further into history as we drive to Ribe, a town that has stood for 1,300 years—the oldest town in Scandinavia—and check into the 16th-century Hotel Dagmar, located directly across from the Ribe Cathedral, which dates back to 1150. Over dinner with Thomas and Trine, we sift through a wealth of documents his father compiled, including a photograph of the farmhouse that Jens purchased in Stavsø, where Nis was born and raised. We record Thomas pronouncing “Sonderup” in the proper Danish way. We take turns trying to imitate it, bursting into laughter at our attempts: Soon errrrap, with the r lodged deep in the back of our throats.

Following the trail of history

The following morning, we decide to trace the breadcrumbs Thomas uncovered and enter Stavsø into the GPS. We drive through the neatly arranged fields of wheat and corn just outside the coastal town of Esbjerg, cheering when we spot the sign for Stavsø Restaurant. Inside, we show a friendly older woman a photo of Jens’s farmhouse, but she only speaks Danish and German. Despite my rusty German, we gather that the house might be located across from the school up the road. However, upon driving over, nothing matches the photograph. Fortunately, a neighbor recognizes the farmhouse but informs us that it was demolished years ago and replaced with a new building. We had passed it twice—at the right location, but the wrong time.

Although the house was no longer standing, I check the folder and discover that Nis was baptized at Henne Kirke, a medieval church just two miles away. The 12th-century church is perched on a gentle hill, surrounded by a large, well-maintained cemetery. We find no Sonderups buried there, which isn't surprising according to a worker outside. In Danish culture, plots are reused every 20 years, and headstones of the previous occupants are removed, a fact that fascinates the girls. We do, however, come across several Nissens buried there, which we deduce must be connected to Kirsten Nissen, Jens’s wife and Nis’s mother.

Inside the church, the color palette is a perfect blend of Scandinavian country chic: wooden floorboards, white walls, deep blue pews, and bas-relief saints highlighted in red and gold leaf on the walls. The girls connect with history, touching the baptismal font that glimmers softly in front of the altar—the very spot where their great-great-grandfather was baptized 150 years earlier. A little over an hour later, we’re screaming with excitement on the Flying Eagle roller coaster at LEGOLAND, completely forgetting about our family history. But that night, after dinner, Nick plays back the recording of Thomas pronouncing Sonderup once more—and again we hilariously mispronounce it. While we might never get it just right, we've gathered quite a tale along our journey.

Important Information Before You Travel

How to Reach Your Destination

Numerous major U.S. and international airlines operate daily flights to Copenhagen from JFK and other key cities. Additionally, SAS has introduced a new direct flight from EWR to Aalborg in North Jutland.

Accommodation Options

Activities and Attractions

• Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde
• H. C. Andersen’s Hus, the museum and childhood home in Odense
• Night Watchman Tour in Ribe
• LEGOLAND located in Billund