On the sleeper train linking Brussels and Berlin

The revival of sleeper trains across Europe, coupled with climate change awareness, has made the European Sleeper immensely popular.

Providing renewed overnight service from Brussels, through Antwerp, Rotterdam, and Amsterdam, to Berlin, and then onward to Dresden and Prague, this Belgian-Dutch collective has travelers rolling across the continent in refurbished carriages originally built in the ’50s.

Here’s one story from the journey between Belgium and the German capital.

Departure: air conditioning is not a standard feature

As the train pulled away from the station, it rolled over graffiti-covered bridges toward the open fields and forests of Flanders. The lack of air conditioning created a stuffy atmosphere in the sleeper cabins, each featuring three made-up beds with heavy duvets, a single seat and table, and a concealed wash basin that opened like a drinks cabinet. With a grunt and a shove, I managed to crack my window open a few inches—most passengers, however, gathered in the corridor, enjoying the refreshing breeze from one large open window while basking in the warm glow of the setting sun reflecting off the waterways toward Dordrecht, where windmills turned lazily and houseboat masts were neatly lined up.

Though there was no dining car available, an attendant frequently moved through the train taking orders for wine, beer, nachos, and instant noodles (all reasonably priced). Having just enjoyed a hearty plate of boudin noir and mashed potatoes at the well-known Brussels brasserie Au Vieux Saint Martin, I was content to stroll around with a tube of Pringles under one arm and a can of European Sleeper’s own Weizen beer in the other. I chatted with fellow travelers in the couchette compartments (which also welcome dogs and cats, provided that private compartments are booked).

Couchette or sleeper compartment?

While couchettes (carriages with seats that transform into sleeping berths) offer a budget-friendly option (€79) compared to sleeper compartments (€189), the spacious couchettes felt like cozy little living rooms, featuring six or four comfortable berths adorned with folded blankets, a sheet, and a pillow. The windows were fully lowered, allowing the wind to rush in as the train sped through the countryside (though the breeze carried so much pollen that antihistamines were being passed around like candy).

With not much to occupy ourselves as the journey began, most passengers started sharing train tales. Some gathered to watch a football match streamed on a laptop, while others indulged in drinks as if it were a farewell party. It felt like we had formed a temporary train family for the night, comfortable among strangers who shared a common passion for trains.

As darkness enveloped the train after Rotterdam, we arrived in Amsterdam, where brightly lit commuter trains zipped by and sleek apartment buildings passed, their curtains drawn back to reveal residents at their desks or reaching for books from shelves. It’s this peek into the lives of others that makes night trains so rewarding: watching a cat navigate the top of an armchair or a woman embracing a partner in their kitchen, blissfully unaware of the passing train.

Stepping away from the window, I caught a lingering scent of wine and beer, and the last footsteps in the corridor indicated that everyone else had settled into their berths. While I was adjusting the compartment for comfort, I heard my neighbor's ladder thumping against the wall, like someone was knocking at the door. That was my cue to settle in.

What kind of breakfast is offered?

The rest of the night was spent wide awake, pillow over my head, regretting not bringing earplugs. Aside from the relentless banging, the journey was smooth, even soothing. I dozed off in the early hours, only to wake at 5am in Peine, Lower Saxony, where a pale blue sky was starting to blush orange, and a chilly mist hovered over the fields.

After grabbing a couple more hours of sleep, I awoke to the morning bustle as we approached Berlin. While sifting through my breakfast box (included with the ticket price), I realized it was too early for crackers and Ardennes pâté. Just before 8am, those who had rested well were planning to head straight into the city for breakfast, eager to see the sights before the crowds arrived.

How to reserve your spot on the Brussels-to-Berlin night train

Operating on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, the train departs at 7:22pm, arriving in Berlin Hauptbahnhof shortly after 6am. The return trip is available on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, traveling from Berlin to Brussels. Fares start at €49 for seats, €79 for couchettes, and €189 for sleeper compartments. Pets and bicycles can be accommodated. Book in advance here.