Padma Lakshmi reveals the key ingredient that defines American cuisine
![Cover Image for Padma Lakshmi reveals the key ingredient that defines American cuisine](/my-seo/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.tripi.vn%2Fcdn-cgi%2Fimage%2Fwidth%3D1240%2Cheight%3D620%2Fhttps%3A%2F%2Fmedia.cnn.com%2Fapi%2Fv1%2Fimages%2Fstellar%2Fprod%2F200623174215-01-padma-lakshmi-taste-the-nation.jpg%3Fq%3Dx_3%2Cy_284%2Ch_1684%2Cw_2993%2Cc_crop%2Fw_800&w=3840&q=75)
What do ceviche, pad thai, and hot dogs have in common?
They're all dishes brought to the U.S. by immigrants, and feature prominently in Padma Lakshmi's 'Taste the Nation.'
In her 10-episode series available on Hulu, the cookbook author, model, and 'Top Chef' host delves into a challenging question.
'What is American food, really?' she asks in the show's opening. 'And what defines us as Americans?'
Lakshmi immigrated to the U.S. from India when she was just 4 years old. She believes one key element that makes American cuisine exceptional is immigration.
To support her argument, Lakshmi journeys across the U.S., exploring different regional cuisines and the stories of the people who bring them to life in each episode.
She tastes burritos in El Paso, Texas, as border surveillance helicopters fly by. In New York, she enjoys dosas and shares childhood memories of being Indian-American with former U.S. Attorney Preet Bharara. In Los Angeles, she prepares kabobs and explores Persian markets.
Throughout her travels, Lakshmi highlights how foods that are now considered quintessentially American actually have immigrant origins. In Milwaukee, during an episode titled 'The All American Weiner,' she reveals that even Oscar Mayer, the famous sausage magnate, emigrated from Germany in 1873.
This season of 'Taste the Nation' also features Gullah Geechee dishes from Charleston, South Carolina, Chinese cuisine in San Francisco, Native American food in Arizona, Peruvian fare in New Jersey, Thai food in Las Vegas, and Japanese dishes in Honolulu.
Since President Trump's election, Lakshmi has been a vocal critic and a strong advocate for immigrant rights. However, she hopes her show, like the food it showcases, will serve as a bridge to unite people across political divides.
'The show is intended for those who may not agree with me, who see immigration as a threat or something negative,' she explains. 'I hope it offers them a more human perspective on immigration—what it truly feels like and how it impacts everyday people.'
This week, Lakshmi shared insights with Dinogo about her own journey as an immigrant, the struggles restaurants face during the pandemic, and the future cuisines she hopes to explore. The conversation has been edited for brevity and clarity.
'Every episode of 'Taste the Nation' opens with you holding a childhood photo from your first days in America as a 4-year-old. What are your memories of those early days, and how do you think they shaped the person you are today?'
Coming to New York from India at age 4 was incredibly exciting. I was overjoyed to finally reunite with my mother after being separated from her for two years as a toddler. That experience has deeply influenced my perspective on this topic.
![Padma Lakshmi and her mother, Vijaya Lakshmi, shortly after arriving in the United States from India.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480841pEy/anh-mo-ta.png)
I thought New York was the most exciting and amazing place. I remember my mom taking me to the local A&P Market, and I was just in awe. The stores I visited with my grandmother in South India were tiny, offering just one or two options for everything. Walking into that American market, with rows upon rows of products, left me stunned. Back in India during the 70s, we had just one kind of sliced white bread, a copy of Wonder Bread. But in that bread aisle, there were 15-20 varieties. I'd never seen English muffins before. It was all so overwhelming.
There’s a moment in the Persian episode of 'Taste the Nation' when I visit the Tehran Market. It’s my first time in a Persian grocery store, and I’m completely overwhelmed, not knowing where to look. It’s just like when I was a child—feeling like a kid in a candy store, surrounded by so many choices. It’s like the Disneyland of food. I’m glad to see I haven’t lost that childlike wonder when it comes to food markets.
'What does it feel like to be launching a show focused on restaurants, travel, and immigration at a time when people can't travel, restaurants are struggling, and immigration has come to a standstill due to the pandemic?'
It feels strange to be promoting anything right now when there are so many urgent issues to address in our country. We filmed this show last summer, but it feels like a lifetime ago. My hope is that the show lets people travel vicariously and enjoy a bit of dining out through the places I visit.
![In the premiere episode of 'Taste the Nation,' Padma Lakshmi cooks with Emiliano Marentes, the Mexican-American owner of ELEMI, a restaurant in El Paso, Texas.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480841cGE/anh-mo-ta.png)
The situation facing the restaurant industry is devastating. But we will rebuild. Many restaurants will return, though not all. I’ve checked in with a few of the people and restaurants we feature on the show to see how they’re coping. Some are offering takeout, others are doing delivery or curbside pickup, while some remain closed because they can’t serve safely without risking their staff’s health.
During times of disruption and necessary change, I hope food can serve as a positive example of the power of immigration, inclusivity, and diversity. These qualities show us why we need people from all backgrounds. Providing them with a chance at a better life will help reinvigorate both our economy and culture, something we deeply need.
In many episodes, you discuss with people their challenges growing up in the U.S. and the struggle to balance two cultures. Former U.S. Attorney Preet Bharara shares his experience of being bullied as a child and how he knew people who would rather pretend to be of a different ethnicity than admit they were Indian. You also mention that you briefly changed your name to Angelique in high school. Why was it important to include that moment in your life and discuss these issues on the show?
Because I think it’s revealing. It reflects a feeling of not being fully accepted or welcomed. It's something I’m not particularly proud of, but it was important to share in order to be honest with my story in that episode. Just as I ask others in different episodes and communities to be honest about their experiences and personal histories.
It also gives all the people I went to high school with the chance to know that it was me.
When you decided to change your name back then, what made you do that?
I think my first name is pretty easy to pronounce, though my last name might be trickier. But people mispronounced it all the time, including teachers calling roll at the beginning of every school year. Changing my name was my way of avoiding that. It was the only thing I could think of to make myself seem less different, to fit in more. It didn’t work, though. I still looked the way I did and remained who I was – and still am. But as a vulnerable teenage girl, I just wanted to seem less threatening, less unusual.
In the series, you don't shy away from addressing some of the darker moments in American history that are tied to the rich culinary traditions you're showcasing, such as Japanese internment camps, the forced migration and enslavement of people from West Africa, or the Chinese Exclusion Act. Why did you choose to take this approach?
History is crucial. It's important to recognize that the foods we cherish carry a lot of history with them. This doesn’t mean we shouldn’t love or enjoy these foods, but we should also understand the origins of our shared culinary heritage in this country. If you grasp how food developed in America, you also begin to understand the evolution of America itself. That, to me, is fascinating.
I've always been both a history enthusiast and a food lover. So I took a chance that others would find it interesting too. I didn’t want to create just another food show that felt superficial or just lifestyle-driven. There are already plenty of those, and I find them somewhat dull now. There’s a wealth of great food programming, but I wanted mine to reflect what I’d personally enjoy watching. And it does.
![In the season finale, Lakshmi delves into the impact of Japanese culture on Honolulu. She takes part in activities like fish tossing, sushi rolling, and exploring expansive sugar cane fields.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480841vmW/anh-mo-ta.png)
A recurring theme in many of the episodes is the dynamic between mothers and daughters. In one episode, both your mother and daughter make an appearance. What made you decide to feature them in the show?
The series shines a light on how cultural knowledge is passed down from mother to child, which is particularly common in immigrant families. It’s how we connect our children to our heritage. I thought it would be inconsistent to ask other families to open up, let me into their homes, and ask deeply personal questions without being willing to do the same for my own family.
Immigrant communities are often quite private, and many are hesitant to discuss their personal histories because they’ve faced discrimination or ridicule in the past. Asking these individuals—some of whom may not speak English fluently—to expose such private aspects of their lives was a significant request. Since they trusted me, I had to extend that trust to my audience as well. I had to be open and not hide behind any barriers. The success of the show lies in the willingness of people to take a chance for me.
![A childhood photo of Lakshmi with her mother, who joins her in the 'Taste the Nation' episode centered on Indian cuisine in New York.](https://img.tripi.vn/cdn-cgi/image/width=700,height=700/https://gcs.tripi.vn/public-tripi/tripi-feed/img/480841DlD/anh-mo-ta.png)
If you were to get the chance for another season of 'Taste the Nation,' what types of cuisine would you want to dive into?
I’d love to visit Dearborn, Michigan, and connect with the various Arab communities there. The layers of immigration in that area date back over a century, starting with Henry Ford recruiting factory workers for his auto plants.
Alaska is another place I’d love to explore. I shot a 'Top Chef' finale there years ago and was captivated by its unique, rugged beauty. It’s a place that many from the mainland rarely get to experience, and it’s home to a large Filipino community. I’m really curious about how their culture thrives in such a harsh climate, so different from the tropical Philippines. It would be fascinating to explore that contrast.
What’s one surprising thing you learned while filming 'Taste the Nation'?
In any food show, whether it’s 'Top Chef' or 'Planet Food,' there’s usually at least one dish that you try and think, 'That was fine, but I don’t need to eat it again.' But in this case, I didn’t have that experience. I genuinely enjoyed everything I tried, even the pack rat, which I sampled in the Native American cuisine episode. I’m lucky, because I can’t hide my emotions—I wear them on my face!
Looking back on everything you've learned from making this show and the many different chapters of your life, if you could speak to 4-year-old Padma or 16-year-old Angelique, what would you say to them?
I’d tell her that everything takes more time than you expect. Life is beautiful, and the best path forward is the one where you stay true to who you are.
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Evaluation :
5/5