Paella Is Great, But Fideuà Is Even Better

If you’ve come to Barcelona for paella, you’re in good company: A wide, saffron-hued pan of rice adorned with seafood is one of the city’s culinary treasures. Few dishes are as striking or, when prepared properly, as delectable. I’ve even written an entire book on paella and have savored my mother-in-law’s shellfish version countless times since relocating to Barcelona in 1996.

However, there’s one dish that surpasses Spain’s iconic paella. Fideuà, an unintentional offshoot of paella, resembles its rice-based counterpart but uses a short, thin pasta called fideus, which soaks up all the cooking liquid as it simmers (much like paella) in a wide, shallow pan. I often whip up fideuà at home, it’s our go-to when my wife and I take the kids out for a relaxed lunch, and it’s what we order when friends visit. While paella is ubiquitous across Spain, fideuà is a regional specialty along this part of the Mediterranean that you shouldn’t miss.

Much like the rice in paella, the fideus noodles take center stage here. Beyond that, fideuà consists solely of seafood, typically featuring tender cuttlefish and shrimp. A rich fish stock is essential; the quality of the stock greatly influences the noodles' flavor as they absorb the liquid. Many chefs toast the noodles in the pan before adding the stock, imparting a nutty aroma and achieving a texture that’s perfectly balanced between al dente and tender. For me, the pinnacle of fideuà is fideuà negra, enriched with cuttlefish or squid ink that not only colors the dish but also adds briny oceanic notes. There’s a natural sweetness, beautifully complemented by allioli, a garlic and olive oil emulsion served atop the dish and mixed in.

Fideuà traces its roots to Gandia, a coastal town south of Valencia, with legends suggesting its creation dates back to the early 1900s. According to one tale, a fishing boat’s cook was preparing seafood paella for lunch when he realized there was no rice available. Instead, he opted to use fideus noodles, typically reserved for soups. The crew’s reaction must have been positive, as the dish quickly gained popularity along the coast. It was warmly adopted in Catalunya, where there has long been a tradition of cooking with fideus: Pasta was introduced during the Middle Ages when much of the Iberian Peninsula was under Muslim rule (the term “fideus” comes from “fidawsh,” the Arabic word for pasta), and the earliest Catalan recipe for cooking thin noodles in liquid dates back to 1324.

Seek out fideuà in restaurants that focus on paella. Ideally, you should sample both during your time in Barcelona — but if you can only choose one, opt for fideuà. Keep in mind that fideuà is a celebratory dish, and like paella, it’s not meant for solo diners; a minimum order typically serves two. However, if you find yourself dining alone at one of the five places listed below, don’t let that stop you from enjoying this culinary treasure. Order the fideuà, skip the appetizers, and return the bread basket. You’ll leave satisfied, not disappointed.

Where to Find Exceptional Fideuà:

La Mar Salada: Venture past a stretch of unremarkable tourist Mytouries in Barceloneta to discover this standout establishment. Led by El Bulli alumnus Marc Singla, the kitchen delivers an unparalleled burst of seafood flavors in its exquisite fideuà. A must-try. Passeig Joan de Borbó 58-59, Barcelona, 08003; +34 932 21 21 27

Can Majó: Established in 1968 and now run by the founders’ children, Can Majó focuses on fresh fish sourced daily from the market, as well as rice and fideuà. They serve the city’s finest fideuà negra, a recipe that has thankfully remained unchanged for decades. Carrer de l’Almirall Aixada 23, Barcelona, 08003; +34 932 21 54 55

Xiringuito Escribà: For over a century, the Escribà family has been a hallmark of exquisite pastries. In 1992, coinciding with Barcelona's Summer Olympics, a member of this renowned culinary lineage opened a xiringuito, or seasonal beach bar, near the Olympic Village, offering something entirely unique: authentic paella and fideuà. This beloved spot remains open year-round, from noon to midnight. Avinguda del Litoral 62, Barcelona, 08005; +34 932 21 07 29

7 Portes: With nearly 200 years of history, this iconic establishment might seem like a tourist trap, but its fame is well-deserved. Guests are drawn to the charming 19th-century decor and the classic ambiance, featuring waiters in white jackets and bow ties. Locals flock here for the expertly crafted Catalan classics that have stood the test of time, including their renowned fideuà. Passeig d’Isabel II 14, Barcelona, 08003; +34 933 19 30 33

La Paella de Su: Located at the northern edge of the Eixample neighborhood rather than by the beach, La Paella de Su offers a distinct vibe with its casual, stylish atmosphere. Susi Bernat, the chef, personally oversees the expansive row of paella burners in this family-run restaurant that opened in fall 2019; any dish on the menu can be prepared with fideus instead of rice. The cuttlefish-laden fideuà negra comes highly recommended. Avinguda Diagonal 436, Barcelona, 08037; +34 931 54 50 11

Jeff Koehler, a James Beard Award winner and two-time IACP cookbook award recipient, has called Barcelona home since 1996. He is the author of seven books, including La Paella and Spain: Recipes and Traditions. Gerard Moral is a Barcelona-born photographer specializing in portrait, travel, and lifestyle photography.