A Divided Steakhouse

Hy’s Steakhouse quickly became a hallmark of Alberta’s culinary scene after its 1955 debut in downtown Calgary. The province is famous for its cattle farms, which produce half of Canada’s beef and play a significant role in local agriculture and culture. Founder Hy Aisenstat transformed his restaurant into a midcentury hub for meat lovers.

Businessmen in crisp suits filled Hy’s for lunch meetings and after-work drinks, sealing deals from plush chairs in a dimly lit, wood-paneled setting. The chef showcased his skills at an elaborate chalice-shaped grill, which served as the restaurant's centerpiece, almost like a shrine to steak.

The restaurant later branched out to Toronto, Winnipeg, Vancouver, and Whistler, with beef remaining a staple in Alberta. However, Calgary’s culinary landscape has transformed over the last 15 years, moving beyond its ranching roots and the extravagant masculinity that characterized Hy’s. In contrast, newer icons of Calgary’s dining scene, like River Café from the ’90s, embrace a local, sustainable philosophy reflected in their naturalistic design featuring tall windows, rustic farmhouse chairs, and a spacious patio. Subsequent establishments such as Alloy (with decorative cherry blossoms and pink walls), Model Milk (airy, multi-level dining spaces), and Sukiyaki House (sushi counter displaying fresh seafood from Japan) have reshaped diners’ expectations for fine dining, often bypassing steak and ornate dark wood decor altogether.

While special occasions still draw patrons to Hy’s for tableside steak Diane prepared by servers in butcher jackets, the Calgary restaurant has adapted to modern tastes with a fresh look. After closing its doors following a final New Year’s Eve in 2006 due to a lease expiration, the restaurant reopened eight years later in the downtown area as a “contemporary” steakhouse. The old library-style rooms have vanished, replaced by a sleek, predominantly black interior, modern light fixtures, plush double-height banquettes, a glass-enclosed prep area, and a few TVs. The only remnant of the original atmosphere is a lounge accent wall adorned with framed vintage photos and newspaper articles.

Yet one location, much farther west, has steadfastly adhered to Aisenstat’s original vision: Hy’s Steak House in Waikīkī, Hawai‘i.

Opened in 1976 through a partnership between Aisenstat and restaurateur Rod Gardiner, this tropical branch followed the success of another co-owned venture, Kobe Japanese Steak House, also in Waikīkī, which closed in 2020. The restaurateurs operated both Hy’s and Kobe in Los Angeles and Palm Springs as well. According to Aisenstat’s son, Neil Aisenstat, who currently serves as president and CEO, Hy Aisenstat had a deep affection for Honolulu, which remains a popular travel destination for families from British Columbia, Alberta, and Saskatchewan, as well as the mainland U.S.

Similar to its Canadian counterpart, the Hawai‘i location offers a nostalgic dining experience, featuring a range of steaks, midcentury favorites, and dishes prepared tableside. The menu includes local flavors and ingredients: a sashimi platter, a Coco Aloha cocktail, and meat grilled over kiawe wood. In the 1970s, the menus blended influences; a Canadian menu from that era promoted grilled mahimahi as a “superb Hawaiian fish, cherished by gourmets worldwide.”

The design of the Hawai‘i restaurant is remarkable; it has retained the charm that has faded from the Canadian locations. Today, the Honolulu establishment—designed by Arthur Fishman, who also created the original Calgary and Vancouver spots—appears delightfully stuck in time. It remains at its original site, at the base of the Waikiki Park Heights Hotel, with much of the interior unchanged.

“The term ‘time capsule’ perfectly captures the essence of Hy’s interior,” remarks Bob Panter, the restaurant’s longest-serving employee, who began as a busser in 1977 and now serves as guest relations manager. “Intricate wood paneling from the Baldwin Estate in Philadelphia adorns our walls. A Tiffany stained glass ceiling from a Baltimore chapel illuminates one of our dining areas. Shelves filled with antique books enhance the cozy corner booths.”

Although Hawai‘i boasts its own rich history of cattle ranching—shaped more by Mexican vaqueros than by the American West—by the 1970s, Honolulu had evolved into a leisure-oriented town. The stereotypical image of a laid-back tropical paradise fueled businesses targeting tourists, making Hy’s concept appear somewhat out of place. Yet, it’s remarkable that the restaurant achieved lasting success with its dark wood decor, nostalgic masculine ambiance, and hearty offerings.

Initially, the steakhouse attracted mainland tourists seeking familiar tastes in an exotic locale, but it was the locals who cemented its place in the dining landscape. “When it first opened, it catered mainly to tourists, as expected. However, as locals discovered Hy’s, they were drawn to the atmosphere and service,” Panter explains. “They returned, sharing their experiences with family and friends, leading more people to explore Hy’s. I’ve witnessed generations walk through these doors.”

Panter notes that while the restaurant's ownership has shifted over the years, its aesthetic has remained unchanged. In the early 1980s, Gardiner and Japan-based restaurateur Yoshitaro Kawakami acquired Aisenstat's operating shares, eventually taking full ownership in 1992. Despite the potential for transformation, the essence of Hy’s stayed the same, as Kawakami had his reasons for preserving it.

“We’ve consistently welcomed Asian tourists, and when Kawakami took over, our Asian clientele expanded,” Panter explains. “The interior of Hy’s offers a unique experience compared to Asian dining.” In 2011, the Japan-based G.Lion Group succeeded Kawakami and continued the legacy, even drawing inspiration from Hy’s for their Akarenga Steak House in Osaka, Japan.

Martha Cheng, a frequent contributor (and occasional editor) for Dinogo in Honolulu, believes that locals appreciate Hy’s for its enduring presence. Over time, its age has become a key aspect of its identity.

“Hawai‘i excels at preserving the past. Hy’s isn’t the only establishment that has stood still while others modernize,” Cheng remarks, citing the century-old Nisshodo Candy Store and other long-standing businesses. “People have a strong connection to the original versions of these places. Even Long’s Drugs remains true to its name, unlike other locations across the country that have become CVS,” she adds.

She further points out that many North Americans overlook the fact that people actually reside in Honolulu and Waikīkī. While Hy’s may not align with a tourist's expectations of dining in Hawai‘i, local residents regard it as a cherished fixture of the community, alongside poke shops and diners.

Cheng highlights the impact of Japanese tourism, particularly after the restaurant's 2011 takeover. 'The Japanese have a knack for preserving nostalgia,' Cheng notes. 'For them, Hawai‘i is more than just a ‘beach paradise.’ The local culture is a significant attraction, and food plays a crucial role in that appeal.'

Although the paths of the Waikīkī and Canadian locations have diverged over the years, Neil Aisenstat cherishes the chance to visit the Hawai‘i restaurant. 'We’ve certainly evolved, and it seems unnecessary for them to do so,' he remarks. When he visits, he anticipates menu items that Canadian locations have phased out, particularly the tableside cherries jubilee (currently unavailable due to supply chain challenges).

Contemporary steakhouses across North America—like Chicago’s Trivoli Tavern, Born and Raised in San Diego, and Vancouver’s Elisa—draw inspiration from the midcentury elegance of establishments like Hy’s. This reverence can benefit the few original restaurants that have endured through shifting trends and consumer preferences. 'It’s similar to the House of Prime Rib in San Francisco, where I grew up. It used to be easy to walk in without a reservation, but now it’s one of the toughest tables to secure in town,' Cheng shares.

Diners are eager to reclaim the dining luxury that has become increasingly rare since the glory days of Calgary’s original Hy’s. What was once old is now trendy again. Ironically, a restaurant like Hy’s Waikīkī, which once comforted mainland travelers with its familiar cuisine and atmosphere, has transformed into an exotic experience for today’s patrons. This is particularly true for visitors from Canada, who recognize the brand but encounter a completely different ambiance than the contemporary chain they know back home. It’s yet another reason why Hy’s Waikīkī has maintained its traditions over the years.

Dan Clapson is a columnist for The Globe and Mail and a culinary expert featured on various Canadian television and radio programs. He co-owns Calgary’s The Prairie Emporium and recently became a No. 1 bestselling Canadian author with the release of his debut cookbook, Prairie, in late summer 2023.